My Guides

Guides I've Contributed To

Completed Guides

Notes

  • HP Pavilion dv6000 Teardown

    Quote from tabormeister:

    Oh I forgot to mention I got a new motherboard for 100 and it's working again:)

    Be extra 110% sure to update the BIOS on that thing ASAP to keep it from happening again! The dying motherboard is a problem that plagues _all_ AMD-based HP dvx000's that haven't had their BIOS updated. Go to HP's site, enter your full model number (e.g. dv6258se - check the white sticker on the bottom), and look for a BIOS update. That'll help to prevent the problem in the future, but be sure to keep the heat sink clean!

  • MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Battery Connector Replacement

    This whole procedure - removing the battery connector - is NOT NECESSARY! This battery connector is included on the Apple supplied replacement part. DO NOT go through the excessive effort to remove this part if you're getting an Apple part - you'll only end up giving them back an incomplete core part. Boo.

  • MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Battery Connector Replacement

    This whole procedure - removing the battery connector - is NOT NECESSARY! This battery connector is included on the Apple supplied replacement part. DO NOT go through the excessive effort to remove this part if you're getting an Apple part - you'll only end up giving them back an incomplete core part. Boo.

  • Chumby One Teardown

    It's called "Thin-film transistor (TFT)"... I'd hate to see what a twisted-film transistor looks like ;)

    Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thin-film_t...

  • MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Upper Case Replacement

    ... And unstick the "camera cable" (I'd imagine it includes more than just the camera!) from the optical drive first.

  • MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Upper Case Replacement

    Same, the Apple supplied replacement part includes a preinstalled, preglued hard drive cable. DO NOT remove this if you're using an Apple part! Just some unnecessary effort in an otherwise perfect guide. :)

  • MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Upper Case Replacement

    This middle bar that screws the optical drive down is NOT included on the Apple supplied replacement part, and SHOULD be removed prior to sending back the old part for a core. Much to my dismay.

  • iMac G5 20" Model A1076 Power Supply Replacement

    Smooth move not noting that there may be an ambient light sensor plugged into the board here. In the "large amount of force", I ended up yanking the cable right off the %$^@&$# sensor here - and took the contacts with the cable. So totally !@^@@& the thing up.

  • iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz Lower Case Replacement

    Quote from dalekaty:

    Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.

    Had the same issue with a T8, although I blamed that on my T8 being quite stripped. Finding an appropriate bit was quite a challenge... but I'm pretty certain a T8 isn't correct. The screws have a hex head, not a Torx... maybe T8 is the closest thing that tends to fit...

  • iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 Front Bezel Replacement

    Replaced one of the redundant images of the card going into the slot, with the previously linked image of the latch itself. I was struggling to figure out how to get the thing open, thinking it was a latch that pushed *up* to the top of the system, but it actually pushes *forward* towards the screen. That accounts for the bending of the card, and the excess length required to insert it. After figuring that out, the case came off nicely.