Introduction

This Nexus 5X replacement guide will show you how to replace only the LCD screen and digitizer on your Nexus 5X mobile device—not the frame assembly. If your replacement part includes the plastic frame, you will need to transfer additional parts (LED, vibration motor, ear speaker, headphone jack, power/volume buttons, and proximity sensor gaskets) to your new frame assembly. Be sure to read through the steps and comments carefully before you begin your replacement.

If your glass screen (digitizer) is cracked, damaged, or unresponsive to touch, this guide will help you replace the damaged glass screen and restore functionality to your device.

If your display has dead pixels, displays distorted or blurry images, or fails to display anything at all, this guide will help you replace the damaged LCD.

Adhesive strength and device condition may vary; please exercise caution when removing components from your device.

Insert a SIM card ejection tool into the SIM card slot located on the left edge of the phone. Press in with the tool of your choice until it pops out of the side of the phone.
  • Insert a SIM card ejection tool into the SIM card slot located on the left edge of the phone.

  • Press in with the tool of your choice until it pops out of the side of the phone.

  • Remove the SIM card slot tray and set aside.

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Starting at the SIM card slot, stick the plastic opening tool in between the back panel and the phone. Slide the opener tool gently around the phone until you hear clicks and visibly see the panel separate from the body of the phone.
  • Starting at the SIM card slot, stick the plastic opening tool in between the back panel and the phone.

  • Slide the opener tool gently around the phone until you hear clicks and visibly see the panel separate from the body of the phone.

  • Continue this process on each edge of the phone, until the only thing holding the back panel to the body of the phone is the fingerprint scanner.

A guitar pick is a good substitution for the plastic opening tool.

Sam Sippe - Reply

Here’s a photo of the location of the 18 tabs that hold the back cover in place

Steve - Reply

Gently detach the back panel from the finger print scanner on the back of the phone.
  • Gently detach the back panel from the finger print scanner on the back of the phone.

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Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the ten screws that secure the middle frame. Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the ten screws that secure the middle frame.
  • Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the ten screws that secure the middle frame.

Some models use a Y1 screw head.

Kyle Wright - Reply

Starting from the bottom near the USB-C port, use a plastic opening tool to pry off the middle panel from the phone.
  • Starting from the bottom near the USB-C port, use a plastic opening tool to pry off the middle panel from the phone.

  • Be careful when doing this because the middle panel comes in two pieces and if you start at the top, you may break the connection between the two pieces.

The photo seems to show that the person is opening from the top, which is the opposite of your advice. So, just want to be clear.

Robert Konigsberg - Reply

yes, open from bottom first... the pic above shows the finished product after reaching top of phone. I found it best to actually start close to the right of the usbC connector. Pushing inbetween the 2 tabs and up will release the shell.. then work clockwise.

Chris Mayberry - Reply

Chris, your advice to start to the right of the usbC connector was excellent, thank you!

Robert Konigsberg - Reply

I found that my middle panel was already broken at the narrowest part just to the left of the 2-D scan code on the battery, perhaps from some ham-fisted previous repair. This seems of little consequence, there do not seem to be any electrical connections running through this part.

Wiley Sanders - Reply

After a long amount of prying, I discoved that, if used gently, a jimmy can really help get the plastic off

Timothy Owens - Reply

I could not remove the cover with the opening tool but had success with the opening picks (the triangle parts). Just slide them under the cover and gently bend and twist the pick to release the cover from the locks. By the way: it’s perfectly normal for the bottom cover part to come loose from the top cover part. It’s designed that way (they interlock).

Marco Miltenburg - Reply

Here’s a photo of the location of the 20 tabs that hold the middle assembly in place, and the pry angle needed.

Steve - Reply

Remove the following four press-fit connectors with the flat edge of a plastic spudger: Front-facing camera connector.
  • Remove the following four press-fit connectors with the flat edge of a plastic spudger:

    • Front-facing camera connector.

    • Rear-facing camera connector.

    • Battery connector.

    • Digitizer connector.

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Insert a plastic opening tool underneath any edge of the top half of the motherboard. Gently lift the motherboard off of the phone's body. Make sure that none of the ribbon cables get caught on the motherboard while you are releasing it.
  • Insert a plastic opening tool underneath any edge of the top half of the motherboard.

  • Gently lift the motherboard off of the phone's body.

  • Make sure that none of the ribbon cables get caught on the motherboard while you are releasing it.

From where we can buy motherboard

SANDHU CAR DESIGNS (SCD) - Reply

  • Insert the flat end of a nylon spudger just below the battery ribbon cable.

  • Carefully work the spudger along the bottom of the battery to free it from the adhesive.

  • Do not bend or puncture the battery.

  • If the adhesive under your battery is stubborn, use a heat gun to soften the seal. Set your heat gun to "Low" and apply heat 8-10 inches from the battery as needed.

Whatever you do, don’t use screwdriver or anything sharp at this step!

Assaf Nativ - Reply

Great advice, Assaf Nativ! Metal and/or sharp tools are generally not safe for use around batteries of any kind—especially lithium-ion batteries.

Richard Suovanen - Reply

My battery was extremely stubborn to free. I used some heat, but discovered that sliding an old credit card down the back of the battery helped significantly. Thanks to the comments here Nexus 5X Battery Replacement

Phil J - Reply

I could not successfully use any plastic tool to get the battery out. I did not have a heat gun available though. My nylon spudger just bent and didn’t budge the battery at all. It was useless. Same with the triangular guitar pick-type tool. I ended up using the can opener of my Victorinox Swiss Army knife to carefully lever the battery out from two sides, making sure not to puncture the thing. Also, the top side of the battery seems to house the electronic protection circuitry, so do not apply any leverage there.

Schorschi - Reply

  • Use a pair of tweezers to gently to remove the front-facing camera.

  • The camera is surrounded by a rubber housing and secured at the face with adhesive. You may need to use a nylon spudger to help free the camera.

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Gently insert a nylon spudger below the rear-facing camera ribbon cable to remove the camera. This process may require careful use of heat to soften the adhesive that secures the camera to the frame. Do not apply excessive heat to your camera components. Exposing your lenses to extreme heat can break the seals that keep your lenses clear of dust and condensation.
  • Gently insert a nylon spudger below the rear-facing camera ribbon cable to remove the camera.

  • This process may require careful use of heat to soften the adhesive that secures the camera to the frame.

  • Do not apply excessive heat to your camera components. Exposing your lenses to extreme heat can break the seals that keep your lenses clear of dust and condensation.

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Use a heat gun over the digitizer ribbon cable to soften the adhesive that secures it to the plastic housing. The Nexus 5X pictured here does not have a layer of shielding tape over the digitizer panel. If this tape is present on your device, simply peel it away from the plastic frame to free the digitizer panel. You'll need to transfer or replace this strip of shielding tape when you install your new screen.
  • Use a heat gun over the digitizer ribbon cable to soften the adhesive that secures it to the plastic housing.

    • The Nexus 5X pictured here does not have a layer of shielding tape over the digitizer panel. If this tape is present on your device, simply peel it away from the plastic frame to free the digitizer panel.

    • You'll need to transfer or replace this strip of shielding tape when you install your new screen.

  • Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the battery housing and the digitizer ribbon cable, or use your fingers to gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable free.

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  • Use a heat gun or an iOpener to soften the adhesive underneath the edges of the screen.

    • Hold the heat gun approximately 8 inches from your screen, and apply heat along the edges in a gentle back-and-forth motion for roughly 2 minutes.

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Use a suction cup and firmly pull the screen away from the frame to create a small gap. This should not require excessive force. Apply additional heat as needed to soften the screen adhesive.
  • Use a suction cup and firmly pull the screen away from the frame to create a small gap.

  • This should not require excessive force. Apply additional heat as needed to soften the screen adhesive.

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  • Insert a plastic opening pick into the gap between the screen and the plastic housing.

  • Slide the plastic opening pick along the border of the screen to free the screen from any remaining adhesive.

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Remove the LCD screen & digitizer assembly. Gently feed the digitizer ribbon cable through the frame. Transfer your earpiece and speaker mesh to your new screen.
  • Remove the LCD screen & digitizer assembly.

  • Gently feed the digitizer ribbon cable through the frame.

    • Transfer your earpiece and speaker mesh to your new screen.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

25 other people completed this guide.

Richard Suovanen

Member since: 02/07/2017

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22 Comments

Good guide, but not the end all - this guide doesn't accurately reflect how difficult the cameras and battery can be to remove. Also, if you are replacing the LCD+digitizer+frame, you will need to remove the LED, headphone jack, and vibration motor

Jay Miley - Reply

Hello Jay! Thank you for your comment. I've added some of the details you mentioned to help our readers. Guide specifics can vary since it's not always possible to judge the state of a reader's particular device, but that's the beauty of a repair wiki! We can all pitch in and create a comprehensive guide.

You are correct—additional components and/or parts may need to be transferred or removed depending on the replacement. You certainly can remove the LED panel, headphone jack, and vibration motor, but it is not required to free the LCD screen and digitizer in this guide. The cameras are removed in this guide due to their fragility and the potential for component damage during the replacement.

Always research replacement kits and parts before ordering, and make sure you've got everything you need for a successful repair!

Richard Suovanen -

This guide helped tremendously, things got a little confusing after step 10 (my replacement screen came with the frame, which I think is the better option). As Jay Miley pointed out there are several other steps required for moving components from the old frame (and unfortunately it's easy to overlook some of the smaller pieces), but it was still nice to have this guide to reference.

Craig - Reply

Hiya Craig! I'm glad to hear that your replacement went well even though you had the +frame replacement part. There are two screen replacement options for the 5X; the +frame replacement part for the 5X requires additional components and gaskets to be transferred from your old frame. I'll try to get a guide up for the LCD & digitizer +frame replacement part in addition to this guide.

Richard Suovanen -

I had a pre-assembled screen / frame so the only real difference was:

* heatgun and remove headphone jack

* power / volume buttons also needed to be switched over (very small flat head screw driver to pop-up)

Andrew Baron - Reply

if you are having signal problems, and you got a new lcd/digitizer with a new frame:

you have to be 100% sure you have transferred ALL the shielding tape (grey/black metallic tape) from the old frame to the new frame

I thought I did and had signal issues still, until I realized I missed one -

There are two pieces of shielding tape UNDERNEATH the digitizer board (little rectangular board at bottom, that ribbon cables into your nexus 5x pcb underneath the battery).

these are very easy to miss.

once i added in those two pieces, my signal boosted to normal levels.

Bob Devitt - Reply

I apologize if im missing something in this guide, but why do you need to remove the cameras from the mid-frame if your just replacing the screen. seems like extra work?

Andrew Craley - Reply

Great question, Andrew! I personally removed these components due to their fragility. Smartphone cameras are often sealed with very small and delicate gaskets that can be compromised if too much heat is applied [during screen removal]. This can lead to a loss of waterproofing, an obstructed lens due to gasket movement, or damage to the lens itself. If you're comfortable skipping right to the screen assembly, go for it!

Richard Suovanen -

The replacement itself isn't easy. But how you written how you have to remove the camera isn't very good. I tried to remove it with the spudger, but now the connector is broken for a part.

Now I’m looking where to buy a new camera :/

Remy B - Reply

Same thing happened to me. Very frustrated.

Robert T -

If you’re replacing your screen, READ ALL THE COMMENTS:

There are two small rubber gaskets at the top of the phone for the proximity sensor (one rectangle gasket sitting directly on top of another gasket with two circle cutouts) — if you’re replacing your screen and you miss these two pieces you’re not going to be able to access your screen while a call is active (the screen goes completely black on a call, and it doesn't know when to turn back on if the proximity sensor doesn't work). I almost completely reassembled the phone before I tested this and realized the problem.

The other comments here about also transferring the LED, vibration motor, ear speaker, headphone jack, and power/volume buttons are accurate, but neglected to mention these rubber gaskets for the proximity sensor.

Kris - Reply

Nice work - searching for the sections to put them back on together. Will that be covered in another article? The glues will take the new screen with the same strength?

Dhana - Reply

I did the frame replacement and now cannot get audio to work from the speaker. The headphones work well and i get ringtones to work but not audio from the earpiece speaker. I checked the connections and made sure all rubber gaskets were in place but still no luck. Any ideas anyone?

Slava Arabagi - Reply

Hello, i’m having the same problem now. Followed the guide exactly, and no audio besides ringtones work. Am i missing something?

Thanks.

Ryan LaBarre - Reply

Hi, I just replaced my screen and am facing the same issue. Did you have any luck fixing it?

Laurens Bolle -

Found the solution to my problem. Apparently I must have pressed down on some pin when removing the headphone jack, causing the phone to think it always had some headphones plugged in. Inserting and removing some real headphones a couple of times fixed this. My audio is now working perfectly again.

Laurens Bolle -

When buying the suggested part (screen and digitizer) suggested at the top of this guide, be advised that the instructions do not match! The part that you purchase would actually make it easier, in theory, because it comes with the frame, etc, but these instructions do not match that.

stu - Reply

hey, many thanks for the guide;

Battery could really be tricky to remove - but be gently (for you safety !)

Thanks again !

Saozis - Reply

For the life of me I cannot soften the glue to separate the glass from the LCD. I’ve heated the %#*@ thing up to the point you cant touch it with bare hands but when i put the suction cup on it wont budge - at all. its been driving me nuts for 3 days now. Has anyone else run into this?

Jarrod Pritchard - Reply

Hi there,

Any chance you may have took details on the part number of LCD panel on the nexus 5x. I have a LCD panel from a motherboard dead 5x, i want to use it as display interfaced to my RPi, if possible. If i have part number i may be able to get the datasheet on that panel.

Thanks

Imran - Reply

I replaced my screen, but had a replacement screen/digitizer with the frame. Also, I did not have a heat gun available. The trickiest part was to get the battery out without heat. I ended up using the can opener/flat head screw driver of my Victorinox Swiss Army knife to get the battery out very carefully. Also, I used the Swiss Army knife’s minuscule flat-head screw driver (that sits in the corkscrew) to get the little components like vibrator motor, cameras and power/volume buttons out. Be careful to transfer all components from your old to your new frame. A few parts are not mentioned in this guide, like the various gaskets at the top as well as the notification LED at the bottom or the power and volume buttons. As mentioned, it is possible to do this without a heat gun - if you have a replacement screen that comes with the frame.

Schorschi - Reply

Really disappointed that there is no replacement guide for people who purchase the frame along with the LCD display screen. OR at least some sort of buyers guide that tells you the difference between purchasing the frame and just purchasing the LCD display screen.

Robert T - Reply

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