Introduction

Replacing the front display bezel requires removal of nearly every component in your display assembly.

Image 1/1:
  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.

Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)

amiller770 - Reply

Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?

Noah Nsangou - Reply

mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine

on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.

david -

I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?

2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151

2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo

Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz

Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB

scannon - Reply

You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)

asle -

There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...

His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:

Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.

Phil - 10/07/2015

at0gjm -

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

One of the screws here wouldn't bite going back in. I'm 100% certain it's the same screw that came out of it but it wouldn't bite going back, neither would any of the other two in this section in that particular hole.

Damon B - Reply

Image 1/1: Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.
  • Remove the following six screws:

    • Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

Note for re-assembly: For the hinge use the longest four Phillips screws.

R L - Reply

The Philips screws in Step 5 are longer than the other Philips screws. Would be better if the instructions differentiated them. Otherwise it is possible to use the wrong screws in Step 7 when reassembling.

Alex - Reply

These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.

Andrew Patterson - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!

isotope434 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

Screw on the right is shorter

mikefal - Reply

The screws on mine were exactly the same size.

Quote from mikefal:

Screw on the right is shorter

Chris - Reply

What are these two screws called?

ian - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.
  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

WOW this step is very hard!!! its a serious suction cup..

nya - Reply

Once the upper case is free...Carefully tilt the upper case from the front towards the screen as their is a ribbon cable directly beneath the keyboard and trackpad that will need to be removed in the next step.

Troy - Reply

Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the upper case.
  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.

  • Remove the upper case.

Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

amiller770 - Reply

It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.

Russ Greene - Reply

how reconnect this cable?

anatole - Reply

I did this with and without step 10 (removing the upper case with detached cable). Removing the cable is risk, putting it back on was not so easy. But then, leaning the keyboard part against the LCD while replacing the hard drive is also risky.

tobybaier - Reply

Image 1/3: For A1229 and A1212 models, disconnect the three antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card and the three connectors highlighted on the logic board. Image 2/3: For the A1229, the order of the cables from left to right is: Black (left; towards the edge of the case) — Grey (middle) — Blue (right; towards the middle of the case. Image 3/3: For the A1261 model, disconnect the two antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card and the three connectors highlighted on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the two antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card, the iSight and inverter cables from the left side of the logic board, and the display data cable from the right side of the logic board. Be careful to slide the connectors as they may become damaged otherwise.

  • For A1229 and A1212 models, disconnect the three antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card and the three connectors highlighted on the logic board.

  • For the A1229, the order of the cables from left to right is: Black (left; towards the edge of the case) — Grey (middle) — Blue (right; towards the middle of the case.

  • For the A1261 model, disconnect the two antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card and the three connectors highlighted on the logic board.

  • Carefully peel the iSight and inverter cables off the top of the left fan and de-route the AirPort antenna cables from the channel in the left speaker.

Remember to replace the little sponge-type object on top of the right-side set of 3 screws, towards the right.

Andrew - Reply

anybody got any advice re: how to detach the connector on that tiny little ribbon, the one on the upper left with the larger ribbon/connector alongside it? I tried and tried... gave up for fear of damaging the wires, plus concern about how difficult it might be to get it back in. Thx in adv

firenzeitalia - Reply

Image 1/1: Don't forget to replace the hinge end caps when reinstalling the display assembly. The end caps are side specific, so be sure that the posts are facing towards the lower case.
  • Remove the ten silver T6 Torx screws securing the display (five on each side-take note that the inside screws on both sides are longer with a thinner head).

  • Don't forget to replace the hinge end caps when reinstalling the display assembly. The end caps are side specific, so be sure that the posts are facing towards the lower case.

To clarify the placement of the different screws:

There are two sets of 2 on each side and two sets of 3 on the insides. The "long" screws with "flat" heads are meant for the INSIDE of the sets of 3. I will represent short screws by the letter "S" and the long screws by the letter "L":

S S - S S L - L S S - S S

Andrew - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Grasp the display assembly on both sides and lift it up and out of the computer.

If you came to the Display Removal guide to replace just the LCD panel and not the entire assembly, you need to head over to the Front Bezel replacement guide.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the Phillips screws from the lower left and right corners of the display (two screws total). Image 2/2: Remove the Phillips screws from the lower left and right corners of the display (two screws total).
  • The hinge end caps on this model can be easily removed at this point, as they are not fastened to the hinge and may fall off during service.

  • Remove the Phillips screws from the lower left and right corners of the display (two screws total).

Couldn't get the screws back on the rear bezel but might just be a problem with my rear bezel as the two sockets where I think the screws screw into fell out.

Rocio - Reply

Image 1/3: Do not insert your spudger between the plastic strip and the rear bezel. Image 2/3: With the spudger still inserted, rotate it away from the display to separate the front and rear bezels. Image 3/3: Work along the right edge of the display until the rear bezel is evenly separated from the front bezel.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger perpendicular to the face of the display between the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel and the front bezel.

  • Do not insert your spudger between the plastic strip and the rear bezel.

  • With the spudger still inserted, rotate it away from the display to separate the front and rear bezels.

  • Work along the right edge of the display until the rear bezel is evenly separated from the front bezel.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Pry the rear bezel away from the front bezel to slightly separate the bottom edge of the rear display bezel. Image 2/2: Pry the rear bezel away from the front bezel to slightly separate the bottom edge of the rear display bezel.
  • Insert your spudger between the front and rear display bezels at the lower right corner of the display.

  • Pry the rear bezel away from the front bezel to slightly separate the bottom edge of the rear display bezel.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Twist the spudger to separate the lower edge of the rear display bezel from the clutch cover. Image 2/2: Work along the lower edge of the rear bezel until it is evenly separated from the clutch cover.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the rear display bezel and the clutch cover.

  • Twist the spudger to separate the lower edge of the rear display bezel from the clutch cover.

  • Work along the lower edge of the rear bezel until it is evenly separated from the clutch cover.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Now that the right and bottom edges of the rear bezel are slightly separated from the front bezel, use a spudger to pop the rear bezel off the tabs near the lower right corner of the display.

Prying the rear display bezel off up with the plastic spudger can be frustrating. The plastic spudger just can't provide the torque. I actually used the combination of the plastic spudger (to start the separation) and a metal spudger to provide sufficient force to separate. I wrapped the metal spudger with some tape to prevent scratching. As usual, care is required to not bend the front bezel.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/3: Rotate your spudger toward the rear bezel to separate it from the front bezel. Image 2/3: If necessary, continue separating the left edge of the rear bezel off the tabs on the front display bezel. Image 3/3: If necessary, continue separating the left edge of the rear bezel off the tabs on the front display bezel.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front bezel and the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel near the screw holes at the bottom corners of the display.

  • Rotate your spudger toward the rear bezel to separate it from the front bezel.

  • If necessary, continue separating the left edge of the rear bezel off the tabs on the front display bezel.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: The rear display bezel remains.
  • Slightly lift the lower edge of the display and pull it away from the rear display bezel.

  • The rear display bezel remains.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the piece of tape securing the backlight cables to the front display bezel.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Carefully lift the inverter out of the clutch cover.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the inverter cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the inverter board.

During my LCD replacement, I did not do this, nor remove the inverter board, I just unplugged the cord in step 24 and left the inverter board in the clutch cover assembly.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/2: Be careful when removing this connector, as it may be firmly seated in its socket. Image 2/2: Remove the inverter from the display.
  • Disconnect the backlight connector from the inverter board.

  • Be careful when removing this connector, as it may be firmly seated in its socket.

  • Remove the inverter from the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully peel off the three antenna straps stuck to the lower edge of the LCD.

Be careful pulling off the kapton tape. Because of the age of the computer and the continuous heating and cooling, the tape can become brittle and the adhesive will stick to the surface of the LCD and not the tape itself, making it unusable. If this happens, you can find small rolls of kapton tape on the internet or get it in the ifixit store.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the bottom edge of the front display bezel.

If you are replacing the LCD and not the front bezel, you really don't need to remove the clutch cover and clutch hinges. You have full access to the LCD screws and can remove it, skipping this step, as well as the steps 29, 30, 31, 32, 37 and 39. The clutch cover, inverter board and all cables will remain attached to the front bezel.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Especially since these computers are old now, these screws are easy to strip down. Make sure you don't screw them in too tightly, as you may not be able to take it back out. The middle of the 5 I had to leave abandoned. Thankfully, it didn't impede my repair.

Andrew - Reply

The cables didn't fit right when I put the clutch onto the front bezel so I tried to disassemble but the middle screw is stuck. The tiny little cable that's connected to this screw ripped :( If I do manage to get the screw out, not sure if I have to replace this whole cable even though it's just a small side cable connected to the inverter cable I think.

Rocio - Reply

Finally got the screw out, and put the cables in the clutch assembly correctly. Works despite the isight/inverter cable's tiny second thread having been torn.

Take photos of what this looks like bc you have to make sure the cables fit in the clutch and are long enough to fit in the motherboard properly.

Rocio - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the two pieces of tape securing the display data cable to the LCD.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the display data cable from the LCD by pulling it toward the bottom edge of the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Move the display data cable out of the way to remove the Phillips screw hidden underneath.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Pull the clutch assembly away from the front display bezel. Image 2/2: Pull the clutch assembly away from the front display bezel.
  • While pulling the clutch assembly away from the clutch hinge with one hand, insert an iPod opening tool between the clutch cover and the front display bezel to lift the clutch cover over the retaining pin on the front display bezel.

  • Pull the clutch assembly away from the front display bezel.

Before you completely detach the clutch assembly, take note of how everything is organized inside it, as you will be replicating it upon reassembly. The display data cable ended up being in the way as I was closing everything up and had to reopen everything to readjust it. Take pictures and see how it will fit into place before you reattach the clutch assembly and screw in the 5 screws.

Andrew - Reply

Took me a long time to get the clutch out, it felt stuck, but after 20 minutes I finally managed.

Rocio - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Repeat the process covered in the previous step to free the other side of the clutch assembly from the front display bezel.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the clutch assembly from the front display bezel, minding any cables that may get caught.

The pins may be hard to notice, but they are both emanating from the bezel as simple pins in sockets. The motion you are looking for to detach the clutch assembly is slightly outward towards you, and then sliding down.

Andrew - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the three pieces of tape securing the camera cable to the display assembly.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/2: Pull the camera cable out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the ZIF retaining flap on the camera cable socket at the edge of the camera board near the top center of the front display bezel.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the camera cable out of its socket.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Peel the camera cable off the foam tape along the top edge of the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the inverter/antenna cables from the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Remove the left clutch hinge from the front display bezel. Image 2/2: Remove the left clutch hinge from the front display bezel.
  • Remove the four 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left clutch hinge to the front display bezel.

  • Remove the left clutch hinge from the front display bezel.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the display data cable from the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Remove the right clutch hinge from the front display bezel. Image 2/2: Remove the right clutch hinge from the front display bezel.
  • Remove the four 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the right clutch hinge to the front display bezel.

  • Remove the right clutch hinge from the front display bezel.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws along the right edge of the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the two 3.2 mm Phillips screws on the top edge of the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws along the left edge of the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: The adhesive is applied such that it sticks to a thin steel strip around the perimeter of the LCD. When prying your LCD away from the front panel, be sure you are separating the front panel from the steel strip on the LCD.
  • The next few steps will require you to separate the LCD from the adhesive applied to the upper and lower edges of the front bezel.

  • The adhesive is applied such that it sticks to a thin steel strip around the perimeter of the LCD. When prying your LCD away from the front panel, be sure you are separating the front panel from the steel strip on the LCD.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift one of the top corners of the LCD out of the front bezel.

This can be a difficult step if not done carefully, resulting in bending or even breaking the front bezel. I gently heated the top and bottom front of the bezel with a hair dryer, which made LCD easier to pry away from the front bezel.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/1: Continue prying the LCD off the front bezel along the left side of the display.
  • Work your way along the top edge of the LCD, slowly prying the attached steel strip away from the front bezel.

  • Continue prying the LCD off the front bezel along the left side of the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Pry along the lower edge of the LCD until it is freed from the adhesive on the front bezel.
  • Now that the top and left edges are free, slightly lift the LCD out of the front bezel for enough room to pry the steel strip along the lower edge of the LCD away from the front bezel.

  • Pry along the lower edge of the LCD until it is freed from the adhesive on the front bezel.

If you plan on reusing this bezel, inspect it carefully for any bends. Gently straighten it before attaching the new LCD to the bezel.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/2: Replacement Note: there are clear plastic spacers attached via adhesive to the sides and bottom of the lcd panel. Be sure to transfer these spacers to the replacement panel for optimum fit. Image 2/2: Front bezel remains.
  • Lift the LCD out of the front bezel, minding any cables that may get caught.

  • Replacement Note: there are clear plastic spacers attached via adhesive to the sides and bottom of the lcd panel. Be sure to transfer these spacers to the replacement panel for optimum fit.

  • Front bezel remains.

When reassembling your LCD to your old bezel, be sure to press the new bezel firmly back to the old adhesive to attach it.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Successfully replaced this. Ended up having to replace the front bezel, the clutch assembly, and the top case. Took about 15-16 hours over 3 days to do it all.

Rocio - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

8 other people completed this guide.

5 Comments

Are the bezels on the A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 all interchangeable? (can the front bezel from any of those models go on my a1229?)

thomas cares - Reply

They are very similar but a search on the internet shows three different part numbers.

Sheldon Carpenter -

Seriously consider using a screw sorter when doing this guide. I actually use a fishing tackle organizer. They have lids you can close, thus preventing any accidental screw spillage. I actually use two sorters, one for the case screws, and one for whatever parts inside I am repairing.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Thanks, my MacBook Pro is now getting full use once more. This guide was very helpful. It was a smooth process.

Jon Martinez - Reply

Check out a time lapse of this whole process.

http://youtu.be/J-9jUiLoRcQ

d a w j a - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 1

Past 7 Days: 9

Past 30 Days: 52

All Time: 19,652