It sounds like the MacBook is drawing power to run the Mac but not charge the battery at the same time. Depending on the update, the battery may have been marginally good but is now being specced as bad by the software. Here's a few ideas: - Check the battery condition on the Battery menu icon. - Check the Magsafe slot on the MacBook to see if there is any metallic debris. A magnet is there designed to hold the Magsafe plug, but it can pick up anything metal, as well, causing the plug to not seat well and even create a potential short. -Try another Magsafe charger to see if it will charge the battery. - If it doesn't then the battery may be at fault. - If a new battery does not fix the issue, then the problem may be with the MacBook itself. Take it to an Apple store to get it checked out.
This is regarding the small, grey plastic slotted mounts that fit onto the metal frame around the LCD screen. When you remove the bezel, they often come off with the bezel rather than stay in the mounting holes. I pop them off the bezel by placing my thumb over them then prying them off the bezel tab with a thin blade. To attach them back to the LCD frame, place one end in the hole, then gently press toward the inserted end so it arches upward slightly, allowing for the other end to snap down into the hole. I use a spudger or a chopstick to exert the backwards pressure and press down with my finger. Do not try to just mash them into the holes as this will merely bend the attachment tabs and potentially break them. I still use double-sided tape to hold the bezel in place.
Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.
There is black tape holding the fan to the exhaust fins. Use a razor knife to cut this tape at the seam between the exhaust and the fins.
When replacing the new fan use 1.5cm Kapton tape to seal the fan to the housing. DO NOT USE ELECTRICAL TAPE. Electrical tape's adhesive composition is not suitable for the high-temp environment of the inside of a MacBook.
Alternatively the tape can be carefully peeled back from the fan and reused, but it gets a bit stretched out.
The adhesive on a couple of MacBook Pros I've worked on were far from mild. Perhaps age makes the adhesive more aggressive, but be careful pulling it up. I worked mine from both ends.
I didn't completely remove the entire speaker assembly or unplug any of the connections. Just unscrewing the torx screws allowed me to lift the speaker out of the way to access the screw to remove the fan.
Seriously consider using a screw sorter when doing this guide. I actually use a fishing tackle organizer. They have lids you can close, thus preventing any accidental screw spillage. I actually use two sorters, one for the case screws, and one for whatever parts inside I am repairing.
This can be a difficult step if not done carefully, resulting in bending or even breaking the front bezel. I gently heated the top and bottom front of the bezel with a hair dryer, which made LCD easier to pry away from the front bezel.
If you are replacing the LCD and not the front bezel, you really don't need to remove the clutch cover and clutch hinges. You have full access to the LCD screws and can remove it, skipping this step, as well as the steps 29, 30, 31, 32, 37 and 39. The clutch cover, inverter board and all cables will remain attached to the front bezel.
Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.
There is black tape holding the fan to the exhaust fins. Use a razor knife to cut this tape at the seam between the exhaust and the fins.
When replacing the new fan use 1.5cm Kapton tape to seal the fan to the housing. DO NOT USE ELECTRICAL TAPE. Electrical tape's adhesive composition is not suitable for the high-temp environment of the inside of a MacBook.
Alternatively the tape can be carefully peeled back from the fan and reused, but it gets a bit stretched out.
The adhesive on a couple of MacBook Pros I've worked on were far from mild. Perhaps age makes the adhesive more aggressive, but be careful pulling it up. I worked mine from both ends.
I didn't completely remove the entire speaker assembly or unplug any of the connections. Just unscrewing the torx screws allowed me to lift the speaker out of the way to access the screw to remove the fan.
They are very similar but a search on the internet shows three different part numbers.
Seriously consider using a screw sorter when doing this guide. I actually use a fishing tackle organizer. They have lids you can close, thus preventing any accidental screw spillage. I actually use two sorters, one for the case screws, and one for whatever parts inside I am repairing.
When reassembling your LCD to your old bezel, be sure to press the new bezel firmly back to the old adhesive to attach it.
If you plan on reusing this bezel, inspect it carefully for any bends. Gently straighten it before attaching the new LCD to the bezel.
This can be a difficult step if not done carefully, resulting in bending or even breaking the front bezel. I gently heated the top and bottom front of the bezel with a hair dryer, which made LCD easier to pry away from the front bezel.
If you are replacing the LCD and not the front bezel, you really don't need to remove the clutch cover and clutch hinges. You have full access to the LCD screws and can remove it, skipping this step, as well as the steps 29, 30, 31, 32, 37 and 39. The clutch cover, inverter board and all cables will remain attached to the front bezel.
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