Introduction

Use this guide to replace the front bezel. Only applicable to Matte Displays.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - Reply

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - Reply

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - Reply

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - Reply

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - Reply

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - Reply

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - Reply

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - Reply

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - Reply

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - Reply

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - Reply

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - Reply

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Danno - Reply

Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.
  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - Reply

Remove the two 7.4 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.
  • Remove the two 7.4 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.

  • Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

  • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

Jon Daniels - Reply

I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

dave - Reply

The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

Abe - Reply

I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

Mark -

Short of taking out the battery is there something else I can do to protect the motherboard?

Bruce Bell - Reply

What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

oboewan42 - Reply

A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

akronymus - Reply

It says "Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard." This is obviously a boilerplate instruction that is not appropriate for a repair guide.

Well, DO you have to remove the battery? IS this one of those repairs where it's "not necessary but prevents accidental shorting"?

Obviously, this instruction is boilerplate text that accompanies almost all the repair guides-- but there shouldn't be boilerplate text there, since this is a specific guide for replacing the Magsafe DC-in jack and not the harddrive.

skat1140 - Reply

Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.
  • Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.

  • Remove the last 7.4 mm Tri-point screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Is removing the battery necessary?

bname - Reply

It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

Daniel Brauer -

Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

Andrew Janke - Reply

Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

Max Fenton -

Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

Franco Bianchi -

As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

Max Fenton - Reply

Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

laurie - Reply

One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

James -

Answered my own question ... the list at the top of this page is dif from the list when you order the part.....

laurie - Reply

Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

Tao - Reply

And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

Tao - Reply

Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

Ivan Keller - Reply

I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?

erinandjoy - Reply

new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

aozoren - Reply

Is this a battery from iFixit?

Scott Dingle -

Is all of this necessary if I am just needing to put a new top to my old bottom?

sherry williams - Reply

Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case. Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.
  • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

  • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Add Comment

Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.
  • Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

cmalec722 - Reply

Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

johnsawyercjs -

The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

skat1140 - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.

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Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the optical drive opening.

Add Comment

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three antenna connectors up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three antenna connectors up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

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De-route all three antenna cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing. De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.
  • De-route all three antenna cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

  • De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

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Remove the following two screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth housing to the upper case:
  • Remove the following two screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth housing to the upper case:

    • One 3.8 mm Phillips

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips

Add Comment

Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.
  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

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Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna/camera cable retainer to the upper case. Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case.
  • Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna/camera cable retainer to the upper case.

  • Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case.

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Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.
  • Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.

  • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Add Comment

Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case. Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.
  • Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

  • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

Add Comment

Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.
  • Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.

  • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

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Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.
  • Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

  • Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.

  • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T6 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

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Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
  • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

Add Comment

Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case. Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
  • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

  • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

  • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

Add Comment

It's very easy for the rubber display gasket to deform when exposed to heat, so it is best to remove it before using a heat gun to remove the display glass. Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the black rubber gasket at the bottom right corner of the display assembly.
  • It's very easy for the rubber display gasket to deform when exposed to heat, so it is best to remove it before using a heat gun to remove the display glass.

  • Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the black rubber gasket at the bottom right corner of the display assembly.

  • Gently pry the wide edge of the gasket up from the back case.

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Starting with the freed corner, pull the rubber gasket off the right side of the display assembly. Starting with the freed corner, pull the rubber gasket off the right side of the display assembly. Starting with the freed corner, pull the rubber gasket off the right side of the display assembly.
  • Starting with the freed corner, pull the rubber gasket off the right side of the display assembly.

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Continue pulling the display gasket off the display assembly across the top edge. Continue pulling the display gasket off the display assembly across the top edge. Continue pulling the display gasket off the display assembly across the top edge.
  • Continue pulling the display gasket off the display assembly across the top edge.

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Continue pulling the display gasket off the display assembly down the left side. Pull the gasket off the bottom edge of the display to completely free it and set it aside. Pull the gasket off the bottom edge of the display to completely free it and set it aside.
  • Continue pulling the display gasket off the display assembly down the left side.

  • Pull the gasket off the bottom edge of the display to completely free it and set it aside.

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In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the outer silver border around the underside of the front panel to the display.
  • In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the outer silver border around the underside of the front panel to the display.

  • With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the metal bezel surrounding the LCD.

  • When using the heat gun, the goal is to soften a layer of adhesive holding the bezel to the display assembly. Be very careful not to overheat the LCD, as it could cause permanent damage.

Not sure if i've missed something, but when resembling do we need to buy a special adhesive to reattach the bezel? if so where do we get this?

Ben - Reply

same question here, what kind of glue should I use? any pre-cut adhesive tape available on the market? thanks in advance!

Arthur Basin -

finally I bought a roll of 3M adhesive tape on amazon and it *kinda* worked. Was it real 3M or a bad copy? Don't know but the bezel is not properly glued. So, either I didn't clean it properly, or the tape is bad...

Arthur Basin -

Carefully insert a guitar pick between the top right corner of the bezel and the display assembly. Use the guitar pick to gently pry up the adhesive along the top edge securing the bezel to the display assembly.
  • Carefully insert a guitar pick between the top right corner of the bezel and the display assembly.

  • Use the guitar pick to gently pry up the adhesive along the top edge securing the bezel to the display assembly.

  • The bezel is very thin metal, so be very careful not to crease it as you pry it up.

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If necessary, use a heat gun to reapply heat along the top right edge to loosen the adhesive securing the bezel to the display assembly. Work along the top right edge of the display assembly, carefully prying the adhesive up with the guitar pick. Stop when you get to the iSight camera.
  • If necessary, use a heat gun to reapply heat along the top right edge to loosen the adhesive securing the bezel to the display assembly.

  • Work along the top right edge of the display assembly, carefully prying the adhesive up with the guitar pick. Stop when you get to the iSight camera.

  • Do not pry near the iSight camera—there is no adhesive immediately surrounding it, and you could damage the camera with the guitar pick.

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Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the bezel along the left and top left edges of the display.
  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the bezel along the left and top left edges of the display.

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Carefully insert a guitar pick between the top left corner of the bezel and the display assembly. Use the guitar pick to gently pry up the adhesive along the left edge securing the bezel to the display assembly. Use the guitar pick to gently pry up the adhesive along the left edge securing the bezel to the display assembly.
  • Carefully insert a guitar pick between the top left corner of the bezel and the display assembly.

  • Use the guitar pick to gently pry up the adhesive along the left edge securing the bezel to the display assembly.

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Repeat the procedures in the two previous steps for the right edge of the display. Repeat the procedures in the two previous steps for the right edge of the display. Repeat the procedures in the two previous steps for the right edge of the display.
  • Repeat the procedures in the two previous steps for the right edge of the display.

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Work along the top left edge of the display assembly, carefully prying the adhesive up with the guitar pick. Stop when you get to the iSight camera. Do not pry near the iSight camera—there is no adhesive immediately surrounding it, and you could damage the camera with the guitar pick. Do not pry near the iSight camera—there is no adhesive immediately surrounding it, and you could damage the camera with the guitar pick.
  • Work along the top left edge of the display assembly, carefully prying the adhesive up with the guitar pick. Stop when you get to the iSight camera.

  • Do not pry near the iSight camera—there is no adhesive immediately surrounding it, and you could damage the camera with the guitar pick.

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Wedge a guitar pick in between the bezel and display assembly near the inner bottom left corner. Work along the inner bottom left edge of the display assembly, carefully prying the adhesive up with the guitar pick.
  • Wedge a guitar pick in between the bezel and display assembly near the inner bottom left corner.

  • Work along the inner bottom left edge of the display assembly, carefully prying the adhesive up with the guitar pick.

  • Continue prying along the inner bottom edge to release the adhesive securing the bezel to the display assembly.

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Use a guitar pick to gently lift the bottom right corner of the bezel.
  • Use a guitar pick to gently lift the bottom right corner of the bezel.

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Slowly lift the bottom edge of the bezel and gently rotate it out of the display. Slowly lift the bottom edge of the bezel and gently rotate it out of the display.
  • Slowly lift the bottom edge of the bezel and gently rotate it out of the display.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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