Introduction

Use this guide to replace the Logic Board in your MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015.

Don't forget to clean and re-apply thermal paste if you remove the heat sink. Follow this guide to learn how.

Image 1/1: Eight 3.1 mm
  • Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

anonymous 1286 - Reply

Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

anonymous 1286 - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

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Image 1/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. Image 2/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. Image 3/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
  • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

jamiegan835 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

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Image 1/3: Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Image 2/3: Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Image 3/3: Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
  • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Be careful to pry against the connector, and not the cable or socket. Image 2/3: Be careful to pry against the connector, and not the cable or socket. Image 3/3: Be careful to pry against the connector, and not the cable or socket.
  • Disconnect the three AirPort antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the AirPort board and bend them up and out of the way.

  • Be careful to pry against the connector, and not the cable or socket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

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Image 1/2: Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket. Image 2/2: Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

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Image 1/3: The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Image 2/3: Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide. Image 3/3: On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.
  • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

  • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

  • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

Andrew Chu - Reply

Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Remove the left connector cover.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Remove the right connector cover.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Remove the cable.
  • Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

  • Remove the cable.

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Image 1/1: One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder
  • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

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Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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Image 1/2: The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan. Image 2/2: Remove the fan.
  • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

  • Remove the fan.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

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Image 1/1: One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head
  • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

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Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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Image 1/2: The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan. Image 2/2: Remove the fan.
  • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

  • Remove the fan.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Image 2/3: Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board. Image 3/3: Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

  • Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. Image 2/3: Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts. Image 3/3: Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.
  • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

  • Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

  • Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

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Image 1/2: Remove the I/O board. Image 2/2: Remove the I/O board.
  • Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

  • Remove the I/O board.

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Image 1/2: Remove the cover. Image 2/2: Remove the cover.
  • Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

  • Remove the cover.

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Image 1/3: Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets. Image 2/3: Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket. Image 3/3: Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

  • Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

  • Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

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Image 1/1: One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw

  • On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

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Image 1/1: Microphone cable
  • The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

    • Microphone cable

    • Left speaker cable

    • Keyboard data cable

    • Right speaker cable

    • Keyboard backlight cable

    • Display data cable

  • On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

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Image 1/3: Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Image 2/3: Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Image 3/3: Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Image 2/3: Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board. Image 3/3: Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

  • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

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Image 1/3: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Image 2/3: Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up. Image 3/3: Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

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Image 1/3: Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Image 2/3: Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board. Image 3/3: Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

  • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

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Image 1/3: Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Image 2/3: Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins. Image 3/3: Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.
  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

  • Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

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Image 1/3: When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. Image 2/3: When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. Image 3/3: When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.
  • Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

  • When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

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Image 1/3: Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Image 2/3: Just like the display data cable, be sure to pull the connector out of its socket parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not lift the connector up. Do not touch the connector. Image 3/3: Just like the display data cable, be sure to pull the connector out of its socket parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not lift the connector up. Do not touch the connector.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining flap on the HDMI data transfer cable.

  • Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Just like the display data cable, be sure to pull the connector out of its socket parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not lift the connector up. Do not touch the connector.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Pull the MagSafe 2 connector straight out of its socket (parallel to the logic board).

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort board to the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Do not lift the AirPort board too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Image 2/3: Pull the AirPort board straight out of its socket on the logic board. Image 3/3: There is a slightly adhesive thermal pad beneath the AirPort board. Be sure to reapply this when reinstalling the board.
  • Lift the end of the AirPort board up enough to pass over the heat sink directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the AirPort board too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

  • Pull the AirPort board straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • There is a slightly adhesive thermal pad beneath the AirPort board. Be sure to reapply this when reinstalling the board.

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Image 1/3: These screws hold two springy heat sink brackets in place, which hold the heat sink against the CPU. They may spring up when you remove the first screw. Image 2/3: Remove the heat sink brackets. Image 3/3: Remove the heat sink brackets.
  • Remove the four 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws from the heat sink brackets.

  • These screws hold two springy heat sink brackets in place, which hold the heat sink against the CPU. They may spring up when you remove the first screw.

  • Remove the heat sink brackets.

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Image 1/1: On reassembly, be sure to clean the CPU and heat sink and reapply thermal compound to the CPU. Follow [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Applying+Thermal+Paste/744|this guide] to learn how.
  • Remove the heat sink.

  • On reassembly, be sure to clean the CPU and heat sink and reapply thermal compound to the CPU. Follow this guide to learn how.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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2 Comments

Any tips on where to purchase a replacement logic board?

Isaac Hake - Reply

eBay eBay eBay

Jon Lewin - Reply

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