1. Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

      • Eight 3.1 mm

      • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Reply

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Reply

    Removing the screw will void warranty?

    Test Application - Reply

    Ok, so here is what I discovered. There is no mobile application for these instructions, while having them on a computer is nice but when the computer you have is the one you are changing the battery on these instruction are of no use. I advise coping them and then paste them in PDF and print them out. Or you better have a photographic memory. I’m just saying.

    Kenny Kyle - Reply

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

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    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Reply

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Reply

    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Reply

    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Reply

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

      • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

      • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - Reply

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - Reply

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - Reply

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - Reply

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - Reply

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - Reply

    • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

      • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

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    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

      • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

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    • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - Reply

    • Remove the left connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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    • Remove the right connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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    • Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    • Remove the cable.

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    • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

      • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

      • One 4.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

      • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

      • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

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    • Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

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    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

      • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

      • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

      • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

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    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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    • Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

      • Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

    • Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

    • Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

    • Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

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    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - Reply

    • Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

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    • Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

    • Remove the cover.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

    • Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

    • Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

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    • Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

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    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

      • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

      • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

      • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)

      • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

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    • The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

      • Microphone cable

      • Left speaker cable

      • Keyboard data cable

      • Right speaker cable

      • Keyboard backlight cable

      • Display data cable

    • On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

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    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

      • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

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    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

    +(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

    Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

    Mihály Plajner - Reply

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

      • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

      • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

    • Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

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    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

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    • Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

    • When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining flap on the HDMI data transfer cable.

    • Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

      • Just like the display data cable, be sure to pull the connector out of its socket parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not lift the connector up. Do not touch the connector.

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    • Pull the MagSafe 2 connector straight out of its socket (parallel to the logic board).

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    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort board to the logic board.

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    • Lift the end of the AirPort board up enough to pass over the heat sink directly behind it.

      • Do not lift the AirPort board too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

    • Pull the AirPort board straight out of its socket on the logic board.

      • There is a slightly adhesive thermal pad beneath the AirPort board. Be sure to reapply this when reinstalling the board.

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    • Remove the four 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws from the heat sink brackets.

    • These screws hold two springy heat sink brackets in place, which hold the heat sink against the CPU. They may spring up when you remove the first screw.

    • Remove the heat sink brackets.

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    • Remove the heat sink.

    • On reassembly, be sure to clean the CPU and heat sink and reapply thermal compound to the CPU. Follow this guide to learn how.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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5 Comments

Any tips on where to purchase a replacement logic board?

Isaac Hake - Reply

eBay eBay eBay

Jon Lewin - Reply

What are the sponges between the heat sink and logic board? Where can i get them, or maybe some replacement?

Alex B - Reply

Can i use the mid-2015 logic board to mid-2012?

Odie Miranda - Reply

This logic board is the model whit just one graphic card, in the other model the logic board have one IC close to processor

george2 alcivar2 - Reply

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