Introduction

Use this guide to replace a dead hard drive.

Video Overview

Image 1/1: Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws
  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur - Reply

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12 - Reply

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314 - Reply

You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Reply

Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

skimmilk05 -

What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

pmhparis -

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe - Reply

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb - Reply

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker - Reply

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk - Reply

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex - Reply

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle - Reply

Hello MacWorld,

Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

wer 10/5/15

tayseer999 - Reply

I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

GotMac - Reply

Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

taylornya - Reply

on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

Maximilian Klotz - Reply

I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

gilded yak - Reply

I need to know why my party can't hear. Me on my android phone

Tina Porter - Reply

Because that party is inside your head Tino. Just close your eyes and enjoy the tunes

Snuf Box -

Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

Jack - Reply

I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

rodrigosady - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the lower case. Image 2/2: Remove the lower case.
  • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

  • Remove the lower case.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off. Image 2/2: It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh - Reply

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull -

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton - Reply

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes -

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv - Reply

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter - Reply

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John - Reply

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu - Reply

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans - Reply

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

aekinaka - Reply

Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

MacProUser - Reply

Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

Simon Mundy - Reply

I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

Zeerachen - Reply

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

Ed Oliver - Reply

DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

Bradley Marks - Reply

Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

nichoferr - Reply

Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

Mfernandez - Reply

This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

wassberg -

Image 1/1:
  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes - Reply

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel - Reply

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes - Reply

Image 1/1: These screws will remain attached to the hard drive bracket.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.

  • These screws will remain attached to the hard drive bracket.

These were Philips #0 screws in my computer.

Church Tucker - Reply

Image 1/1: The hard drive bracket may be firmly seated against the upper case.
  • Remove the hard drive bracket.

  • The hard drive bracket may be firmly seated against the upper case.

Don't miss this step: I almost did and of course couldn't get the disk out until I looked at the video !

francistasset - Reply

Image 1/1: Don't try to completely remove the hard drive just yet. It is still attached to the hard drive cable.
  • Use the attached pull tab to lift the hard drive out of the upper case.

  • Don't try to completely remove the hard drive just yet. It is still attached to the hard drive cable.

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Image 1/2: Remove the hard drive. Image 2/2: Remove the hard drive.
  • Pull the hard drive cable away from the body of the hard drive.

  • Remove the hard drive.

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Image 1/2: Transfer the hard drive retaining posts to your new hard drive. Image 2/2: If desired, transfer the pull tab over to your new hard drive.
  • Remove the four 6.0 mm T6 Torx hard drive retaining posts from the sides of the hard drive.

  • Transfer the hard drive retaining posts to your new hard drive.

  • If desired, transfer the pull tab over to your new hard drive.

  • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

  • If you upgraded your EFI Firmware ROM you can also perform an internet recovery.

T5, not T6 on mine.

pilzn - Reply

Reinserting the tiny screws was a pain, until I discovered this: initially turn them counterclockwise, till the threads 'agree' and the screw drops down into it's threded slot. Then go clockwise and they seat properly.

Dave - Reply

The paint on the screw threads makes it a little finicky to get them to 'find' the threading in their matching holes.

Bad words were said, but job complete.

Dave - Reply

T6 were just too small to fit the screws of the retaining post, and T8 was just too big. I suspect a T7 will fit. I will get a T7 screwdriver and report back.

Beware other users: T6 as the guide suggests may not be the correct choice for all.

fludiumvatn - Reply

I tries every T there is and eventually got a grip. But they just won't turnê. I evento tries using pliers but the screws stay unmovabble.

Julio Lobato - Reply

If replacing the hard drive with a 7mm SSD, is a spacer required? This guide from Crucial suggests it is, but there's no mention of it here.

http://guides.crucial.com/Guide/MacBook+...

Just wondering if people are managing without the spacer.

Jeff Smith - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

261 other people completed this guide.

11 Comments

Under updated firmware, macbook pro unibody models will not recognize many third-party hard drives. See this discussion: https://discussions.apple.com/message/15...

Ewan Robinson - Reply

Awesome guide! Swapped my 320GB hard drive for an 1TB hard drive. Took five mins thanks to iFixit!

Chris - Reply

I feel you should be pointing out a couple of things about the chassis screws that are not obvious to the inexperienced

- the 6 screws that are not along the hinge edge of the body (4 yellow & 2 of the orange) are not perpendicular to the flat surface; they go in at an angle such that their heads are flat in the curve in which they sit. Attempting to hold the screwdriver upright in these heads could lead to damage to the screws, stripping out the "cross"

- attempting to insert these screws "straight" when reassembling will lead to cross-threading and stripping the screw threads

Christopher Bedford - Reply

Will I notice a diference in booting speeds?

(actually, real question would be: Is it faster than the original sata, and if so, how much faster and how will it affect me?

C Eyzag - Reply

Yes almost 5 times faster 20s rather than 1min30s

Felix Roque -

I did this upgrade as instructed and everything went swimmingly. I used SuperDuper to clone the drive well before opening the mac and removing the original hard drive. I loved SuperDuper but there are also alternatives for cloning. The iFixit kit contains the proper tools too and it's a bargain though the drive can be had for much less elsewhere.

phreest - Reply

All went well. Entirely doable. I did the memory while I was in there too. So now have 16Gb and a 1TB SSD running! Couple of comments

1: Whoever suggested using a prescription pill day counter for screws was a genius. You should do that too. Telling the shouldered from the unsoldered 3.5mm Phillips 00 screws will drive you nuts otherwise

2: The recovery instructions are a bit old if you've been keeping you OSes up to date. If you have Yosemite or what not, you have had your firmware flashed. So just make a time machine backup on a USB drive; replace everything; and right after you power up, hold Apple-R (if you have WIFI) and it will boot. Use disk utility to partition the drive as bootable (macos journalled with guid), then plug in the USB time machine, and recover from that. Few hours later you are in business.

Thanks iFixit. Great instructions,

paul - Reply

I did this with the iFixit provided 1TB SSD. It all went well. It's really an easy task, though it might seem daunting. Just don't "force it" with any of the delicate parts.

The restart of the computer was a little startling. I flipped open the laptop and bam, it started. Might have been an errant press on the power button.

Also, to reinstall, I used "Internet recovery" which worked perfectly, as building a thumb drive boot drive failed on me. Internet recovery saved my world. Took about 4 hours to restore 320G of data on my new drive.

keimel - Reply

HI, i tried to swap my data from the old hard drive to the new one, but on my mac book pro the disk utility programm does not open...there is something called a Festplattendienstprogramm, but it looks completely differs than the utility program.

How can i find this program on my early 2011 MacBook Pro bought in germany?

Thanx for help!

Maike Wehmeier - Reply

I tried to swap my hard drive on a new 1TB one, but the disk utility program does not open! It seems, that it s not existing on this early 2011 MacBook Pro bought in germany. There is a "Festplattendienstprogramm" but it looks completely different and does not have the possibility to swap the data...Any idea how to solve this? Thanx for help!

Maike Wehmeier - Reply

I went to the apple store and they stated that I needed a new hard drive. But, they noticed a water mark that was marked red and said that it voided the warranty and I would have needed to pay even more for them to replace the hard drive. So I bought the hard drive suggested by ifixit and replaced the hard drive. When i start my computer it stay at a apple sign with spinning wheel for a while. I pressed command option R to try to download the mac ox software but the hard drive does not put up under the disk utility screen in order to download it. HELP!

ronald61 - Reply

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