Image 1/1: Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

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Image 1/1: Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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Image 1/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. Image 2/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. Image 3/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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Image 1/1: Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

Andrew - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?

Gerardo Jimenez - Reply

Image 1/2: It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way. Image 2/2: Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.
  • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

  • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

  • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

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Image 1/2: An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board. Image 2/2: Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
  • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

  • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

Behram Beldagli - Reply

when reinstalling the interposer - pay close attention to proper orientation. You can install it upside down and still make it fit - don't ask me how I know!

davemullins - Reply

Image 1/2: When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board. Image 2/2: When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

  • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

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Image 1/2: Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

  • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

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Image 1/3: Move the SSD cable connector out of the way. Image 2/3: Move the SSD cable connector out of the way. Image 3/3: Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.

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Image 1/2: Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure you are prying up on the connector, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

Stu - Reply

Image 1/1: One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

On my "Early 2013" A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is covered by foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge that needs to be removed before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered

Matt Sephton - Reply

Image 1/2: If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case. Image 2/2: If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.
  • Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.

  • If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.

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Image 1/3: Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board. Image 2/3: Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way. Image 3/3: Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.

  • Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.

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Image 1/2: Gently pry the left speaker cable connector  up off from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure you are prying up on the connector, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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Image 1/1: One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)
  • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the screw in the corner is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed before the screw.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.

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Image 1/3: While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity. Image 2/3: While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity. Image 3/3: While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
  • Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.

  • While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).

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Image 1/2: iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant. Image 2/2: Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
  • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

  • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

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Image 1/2: Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover. Image 2/2: It's best to fill the syringe with no more than about 1-2 milliliters of adhesive remover at a time, so as to avoid accidentally applying too much.
  • Open your container of adhesive remover.

  • Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover.

    • It's best to fill the syringe with no more than about 1-2 milliliters of adhesive remover at a time, so as to avoid accidentally applying too much.

    • Refill your syringe as needed throughout the rest of this procedure.

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Image 1/1: Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
  • Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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Image 1/3: Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive. Image 2/3: Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive. Image 3/3: Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.
  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.

This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

Ahmed Almulhim - Reply

I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

Matt Sephton - Reply

we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

Allen Lin - Reply

Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

lukecparr -

Image 1/3: Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell. Image 2/3: Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive. Image 3/3: Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.
  • Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.

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Image 1/3: Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell. Image 2/3: Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Image 3/3: Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.
  • Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:

    • Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.

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Image 1/3: Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells. Image 2/3: Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case. Image 3/3: Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell.

  • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

  • Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.

This was the most difficult step on my Early 2013 A1325 EMC2672 as it required a tremendous amount of force to lever up the larger batteries. I broke the end of two spudgers. I suggest repeating the previous step and then coming back to this step.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Image 1/3: Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture. Image 2/3: Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture. Image 3/3: Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.
  • Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case.

  • Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.

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Image 1/3: Remember to add about 1 ml of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell. Image 2/3: Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells. Image 3/3: Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.
  • Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.

    • Remember to add about 1 ml of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.

    • Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.

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Image 1/3: Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case. Image 2/3: With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers. Image 3/3: Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.
  • Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.

  • Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

  • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place.

  • Calibrate your new battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

  • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

Fred Ziegler - Reply

If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

jaredcastello - Reply

Image 1/2: It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Image 2/2: It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the edges of the I/O board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

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Image 1/2: It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Image 2/2: It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the iSight camera cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Move the iSight camera cable aside.

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Image 1/2: Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the keyboard backlight connector and the logic board.

  • Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/2: Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Image 1/3: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/3: Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket. Image 3/3: Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Image 1/3: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/3: Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket. Image 3/3: Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to rotate the pull tab secured to the display data cable lock toward the DC-In side of the computer.

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Image 1/3: It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket. Image 2/3: Pull, but do not remove, the display data cable connector out of its socket and carefully move it out of the way. Image 3/3: Pull, but do not remove, the display data cable connector out of its socket and carefully move it out of the way.
  • Gently push the edges of the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket.

  • Pull, but do not remove, the display data cable connector out of its socket and carefully move it out of the way.

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Image 1/3: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/3: Carefully pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket. Image 3/3: Carefully pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Carefully pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Move the left fan ribbon cable aside to reveal a hidden screw securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Eight 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws Image 2/2: One Phillips #00 screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the upper case:

    • Eight 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One Phillips #00 screw

    • Two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws

  • Remove two more screws, from the MagSafe DC-In board in the upper right corner (second image).

    • Two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws

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Image 1/2: Pull the right I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly. Image 2/2: Pull the right I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.
  • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding any cables and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.

  • Pull the right I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.

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Image 1/3: The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly: Image 2/3: Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket. Image 3/3: The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the three antenna cable connectors from the AirPort board.

  • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

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Image 1/1: One 3.53 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following two screws securing the I/O board to the upper case:

    • One 3.53 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 4.89 mm T8 Torx standoff screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Carefully pull and remove the I/O board away from its recess in the upper case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Lift and remove the headphone jack out of the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift the rubber hinge covers up off the right and left display hinges.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws (one on each side) securing the aluminum hinge brackets to the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

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Image 1/2: While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket. Image 2/2: Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
  • Open the MacBook Pro approximately 110 degrees, and place it sideways on the table, as shown.

  • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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Image 1/3: Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly. Image 2/3: Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down. Image 3/3: Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.
  • Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand.

  • Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly.

  • Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.

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Image 1/1: Four 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the trackpad to the upper case:

    • Four 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

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Image 1/2: Run the spudger along the bottom to release the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Image 2/2: Run the spudger along the bottom to release the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
  • Wedge the spudger between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case.

  • Run the spudger along the bottom to release the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity. Image 2/2: Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger in between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case.

  • Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity.

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Image 1/2: Remove the trackpad from the upper case. Image 2/2: Remove the trackpad from the upper case.
  • Once the trackpad is free of the upper case, guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case.

  • Remove the trackpad from the upper case.

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Image 1/1: With the heat gun set to low, heat the microphone assembly to loosen the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.
  • For this step, it is recommended to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive securing the microphone assembly to the upper case. You may be able to remove it without doing so, but will risk damaging the microphone cable.

  • With the heat gun set to low, heat the microphone assembly to loosen the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.

  • Be very careful not to overheat the microphones or upper case. Keep in mind that the plastic keyboard is on the other side—too much heat in a single place can melt keys.

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Image 1/3: Grasp the piece of tape with a pair of tweezers and remove it. Image 2/3: Grasp the piece of tape with a pair of tweezers and remove it. Image 3/3: Grasp the piece of tape with a pair of tweezers and remove it.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of tape covering one of two microphones.

  • Grasp the piece of tape with a pair of tweezers and remove it.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Repeat the same procedure as the previous step to remove the tape covering the second microphone.

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Image 1/3: Run the spudger up along the bottom of the microphone assembly cable to separate it from the upper case. Image 2/3: Run the spudger up along the bottom of the microphone assembly cable to separate it from the upper case. Image 3/3: Run the spudger up along the bottom of the microphone assembly cable to separate it from the upper case.
  • Wedge the tip of a spudger underneath the microphone assembly cable.

  • Run the spudger up along the bottom of the microphone assembly cable to separate it from the upper case.

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Image 1/2: At this point the second microphone should be completely detached from the upper case. Image 2/2: At this point the second microphone should be completely detached from the upper case.
  • Gently wedge the tip of a spudger underneath the second microphone and push inwards to loosen the adhesive.

  • At this point the second microphone should be completely detached from the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Carefully pry the first microphone up off the upper case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift and remove the microphone assembly out of the upper case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Upper case remains.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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One Comment

Wow, it worked! I am computer literate but have not taken my computer apart in years. Your photos and attention to detail were much appreciated. Any woman can and should attempt to do this herself. Thanks so much for the great tutorial!

Tricia

Patricia - Reply

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