Introduction

Use this guide to replace the trackpad.

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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  • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

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  • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.

arnolfo santoro - Reply

  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

Top screw in this image was not a T6. I found that a T5 bit fit this one.

Alex Grayson - Reply

  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

Andrew - Reply

  • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?

Gerardo Jimenez - Reply

  • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

  • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

  • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

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  • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

  • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

Behram Beldagli - Reply

You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts

Dan -

How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

Raunak - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

  • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

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  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

  • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

This step is NOT really necessary. The trackpad can be removed with this cable still in place.

Robert - Reply

  • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.

Because it is attached to the battery with a tiny bit of tape near where the spudger is in the picture, this cable should probably be loosened. But it is NOT necessary to remove the speaker entirely.

Robert - Reply

  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

Stu - Reply

NOT truly necessary to remove either speaker.

Robert - Reply

  • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

On my "Early 2013" A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is covered by foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge that needs to be removed before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered

Matt Sephton - Reply

  • Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.

  • If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.

NOT necessary to remove this speaker.

Robert - Reply

Yes it is…the speakers cover up the three screws on each side that hold in the battery.

Redwolf - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.

  • Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.

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  • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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  • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the screw in the corner is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed before the screw.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!

Stacey Deel - Reply

  • Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.

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  • Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.

  • While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.

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  • Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.

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  • Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).

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  • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

  • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

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  • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

  • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

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  • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

  • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

  • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

  • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

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  • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.

This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

Ahmed Almulhim - Reply

I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

Matt Sephton - Reply

we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

Allen Lin - Reply

Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

lukecparr -

by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.

Jennifer McPherson - Reply

Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.

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  • Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:

    • Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.

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  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell.

  • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

  • Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.

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  • Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case.

  • Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.

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  • Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.

    • Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.

    • Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.

Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.

Chris Leeds - Reply

  • Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.

  • Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

  • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

  • Calibrate your new battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

  • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

Fred Ziegler - Reply

If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

jaredcastello - Reply

Wie setze ich die Zyklen wieder auf 0 wenn ich einen neuen Akku verbaut habe?

Albert Zweistein - Reply

@Albert: you don’t need to reset the cycles as it is done automatically.

Serge Struß - Reply

When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.

Stacey Deel - Reply

thanks to everyone for the helpful comments along with this really good tick list of things to do. The main thing I have learned is, I don’t have the patience to do this so I am taking my macbook pro (early 2013) 90 odd miles to my nearest Apple store with a Genuis bar. They can sort it for me. They might charge a lot to do it, but at least it will be them risking messing the process up not me! Thanks again.

Jennifer McPherson - Reply

Really well done on this. I followed it to a T. Perfect. Thank you for all your work on this.

Stephen Johnson - Reply

Excellently communicated.

Andrew Goldberg - Reply

I wouldn’t have thought to drain my old battery! (Which means I cannot begin my ‘new battery install’ until later today.

Andrew Goldberg - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  • Wedge the spudger between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case.

  • Run the spudger along the bottom to release the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

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  • Insert the tip of a spudger in between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case inside the SSD assembly cavity to remove the last of the adhesive.

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  • Using the tip of the spudger carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity.

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  • Remove the following screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad and upper case:

    • Four 1.9 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • Four 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

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  • Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case.

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  • To avoid scratching the display, open the computer about 90º and set it on end.

  • Guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case. This will push the trackpad up out of its recess in the top of the upper case. Guide the trackpad out with your other hand, so it doesn't fall.

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  • Gently pull the trackpad from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

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7 Comments

Hi!

I have a Macbook Pro Retina 15-Inch Early 2013. Is it a similar procedure for this laptop with a larger screen (15" versus yours 13")?

kisakuski87 - Reply

We've got guides for the 15" Early 2013, unfortunately, removing the battery in the 15" is significantly harder, you can follow the upper case guide to get most of the way and either replace the whole upper case (and get a new battery included), or use this guide to try to get the rest of the way. Best of luck!

Sam Lionheart -

I just wanted to say this worked for me, thank you for the walkthrough! My trackpad just suddenly died one day out of the blue. I thought it might be a lose cable, but ordered a replacement just in case. No loose cables, simple swap out did the trick. This walkthrough is very good. Only thing I'd warn the feint of heart is the removal of the batteries can be intense because they are glued in. You really need the right tool to work it free. I think the battery removal took at least 20 minutes alone!

Anyone, thanks again for your help!

andrewjripley - Reply

Excellent write up. Three suggestions which i uncovered when i followed this procedure:

Step 5 - The silver shouldered screw was a T6 Torx, not a T7. On this basis, I didn't need a T7 Torx screwdriver for this procedure.

Step 15 & 19 - To remove the corner screws (the heads of which aren't immediately visible), you need to carefully remove the covering mesh with tweezers

Step 44 - Reposition of trackpad. I found that when putting the trackpad back in place during reassembly, it was tricky to get it in exactly the right position (perfectly centralised). I found that taking four small pieces of paper and folding them in half helped. I wedged a piece of folded paper in between the four sides of the trackpad and then tightened the screws. Once the screws are tightened, you can simply remove the paper.

Sunil Dhiman - Reply

This guide wasted a bit of my time! Removing the speakers and the battery are unnecessary. The top piece of the battery can be lifted to reveal the trackpad cable once the screws at the sides are removed.

just1ed - Reply

H! Many thanks for this helpful manual. Everything was well except when I was reassembling the laptop I got stuck on Steps 34-35 - how do I connect back the trackpad? Didn't get how to fix the wire to the socket. You advice is much appreciated

Alejandro - Reply

I also skipped the part where the batteries were removed, it was easy to replace the trackpad with batteries still attached - I only had to lift the upper battery a bit. Thanks for the guide, was extremely helpful.

michaelf - Reply

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