Introduction

Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease. The battery is made up of six distinct cells, four of which are adhered to the upper case.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery before you begin this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics, such as the MacBook Pro's plastic speaker enclosures. Take care when applying the solvent.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
  • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

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Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board. Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

Andrew - Reply

Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
  • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?

Gerardo Jimenez - Reply

Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board. It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.
  • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

  • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

  • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers. An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.
  • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

  • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

Behram Beldagli - Reply

when reinstalling the interposer - pay close attention to proper orientation. You can install it upside down and still make it fit - don't ask me how I know!

davemullins - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board. When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

  • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector. Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

  • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.
  • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board. Move the SSD cable connector out of the way. Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.

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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector. Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

Stu - Reply

Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

On my "Early 2013" A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is covered by foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge that needs to be removed before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered

Matt Sephton - Reply

Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case. If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.
  • Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.

  • If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board. Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.

  • Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.

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Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector. Gently pry the left speaker cable connector  up off from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the screw in the corner is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed before the screw.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case. Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.
  • Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.

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Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device. While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity. While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
  • Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.

  • While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.

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Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.
  • Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.

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Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total). Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).
  • Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).

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The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
  • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

  • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

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Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
  • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

  • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

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Open your container of adhesive remover. Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover.
  • Open your container of adhesive remover.

  • Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover.

    • It's best to fill the syringe with no more than about 1-2 milliliters of adhesive remover at a time, so as to avoid accidentally applying too much.

    • Refill your syringe as needed throughout the rest of this procedure.

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Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.
  • Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell. Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive. Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.
  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.

This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

Ahmed Almulhim - Reply

I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

Matt Sephton - Reply

we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

Allen Lin - Reply

Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

lukecparr -

Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell. Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell. Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.
  • Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.

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Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive: Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
  • Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:

    • Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.

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Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell. Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells. Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell.

  • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

  • Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.

This was the most difficult step on my Early 2013 A1325 EMC2672 as it required a tremendous amount of force to lever up the larger batteries. I broke the end of two spudgers. I suggest repeating the previous step and then coming back to this step.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case. Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture. Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.
  • Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case.

  • Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.

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Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro. Remember to add about 1 ml of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell. Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.
  • Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.

    • Remember to add about 1 ml of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.

    • Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.

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Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery. Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case. With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.
  • Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.

  • Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

  • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

  • Calibrate your new battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

  • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

Fred Ziegler - Reply

If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

jaredcastello - Reply

Wie setze ich die Zyklen wieder auf 0 wenn ich einen neuen Akku verbaut habe?

Albert Zweistein - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

34 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

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13 Comments

Followed this guide step by step. Very comprehensive and accurate. I would never have dared disconnect the speakers if this guide didn't show me how.

One point though. The lower left and right speaker screws had some metallic sponge on top of them. I wouldn't have known there were screws underneath.

wayne - Reply

Excellent guide. I'm a repair technician who works on both PCs and Macs. This was my first rMBP battery replacement and I wasn't sure what to expect. For those experienced with electronics repairs, I'd say this is a relatively easy repair with the exception of releasing the adhesive which holds the battery cells to the case. I was eventually able to do it with a spudger and some elbow grease, but I was worried at times that I was going to puncture the battery. Apple really needs to dial back the strength of adhesive they use for these applications. They are clearly making it as difficult as possible for the average user to attempt, which IMO may end up costing them well informed and thoughtful customers. This setup is similar to the iPhone 6 battery (which I actually did puncture with a spudger the first time I removed one) albeit more involved to remove. In the case of the iPhone, a few minutes on the hot plate loosens it right up but this isn't really feasible in the case of the rMBP.

nick - Reply

Thanks for this guide, I had a faulty battery and replacement by apple would be 400 euro. Now I did it myself with a replica battery for 80 euro.

Tip on prying loose the battery at step 24 and on: Use an old credit card. That worked very well for me.

roelofk - Reply

Old Credit card works very well on Step 24. Excellent guide.

Tiny AIM - Reply

I recommend to skip step 14 ( pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board). The risk of damaging the socket is very high. There is even a warning in this guide (Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself!).

Proceed from 13 to 15 and 16 to remove the right speaker. Still with the connector in place you can put the speaker a bit aside and have enough room to remove the battery packs in the steps later.

Same for left speaker and its connector cable (step 18).

Hint by @roelofk with old credit card is very helpful.

Excellent description and excellent pictures. Thx

Stefan Duckwitz - Reply

Apple should not put Adhesive most specially the time you spent to remove it. Its easy but it takes time cause the adhesive is like a glue, If somebody

read this the tactic is borrow a Hair drier from your wife and heat this Bad Battery really hot and start inserting the Plastic or whatever you have underneath the Battery slowly. Apple should just put some kind of anti static foam so its easy to remove in no time theres cover anyway that foam will keep it from moving period thats it.

ricofamor - Reply

Excellent guide, it worked very well for me, the parts and tools I purchased here made this job easy and a pleasure! Getting the batteries unstuck from their glue is the hardest part for sure, just patience and proper tools and it doesn't take too long though. Thank you so much!

Peter Weldon - Reply

Excellent guide, but PLEASE consider changing the reported difficulty to medium (iFixit, if that's not something the author can do). The process is actually super easy, but just takes over an hour to do.

I nearly didn't do it myself after realising it was rated the same difficulty as an SSD/HDD change in an iMac (with which I cracked my screen in two places), but it isn't. This is about a 2/10 difficulty level, and that's about 9/10.

I just think it would be a shame if the reported difficulty dissuaded people from doing it, and wasted hundreds of dollars paying Apple to do it. If you can read, and have the equivalent dexterity of tying shoelaces, you can do this. :)

Also, the battery removal is a pain, but if you cut an old credit card down the middle, you have two "spudgers" you can use underneath in a turning motion (sort of like rotating a lever in-plane), while pulling it in and out. A bit of patience and you'll get each half out in about 5 minutes.

LongTimeMacUser - Reply

Great manual! Thanks a lot. I do agree with @longtimemacuser tough, difficulty level was discouraging me. Once I read all the steps, I thought I could do it and I did it and it worked! So I believe this difficult level should be medium, it's not hard (expect for the battery adhesive), it just take a long time to do it.

rennerassis - Reply

I had a water incident with my wife's Macbook Pro. After drying the machine it would startup on power but the battery was toast. It said the battery needed replacing. Went through this battery replacement procedure - agree with the posts above that it's not as difficult as I was expecting based on the difficulty level.

Incidentally - after battery replacement the battery charged once then after that the machine wouldn't boot at all. I eventually went through this procedure a second time then removed the logic board and the i/o board and liberally cleaned both with a 99.9% isopropyl alcohol bath. Reassembled all the components and everything works great. I assume this was due to some residual water damage and the cleaning seemed to do the trick.

Kids got a new spill resistant chromebook new and the wife's Macbook Pro is happy again.

Rand Bell - Reply

Just replaced battery + wifi module.

Thanks a lot!

Weichen Zhao - Reply

This was much easier than expected, and the MBP is keeping a charge just like when I pulled it out of the box 4 years ago. Like was said before, this might be the step below "difficult" unless you've got the coordination of an elephant on stilts. Thanks for the guide!

Adam Sharrow - Reply

Very clear instructions, I followed them carefully and everything worked out fine! It was quite easy, actually.

I only improvised by using my nail polish remover (acetone) as an alternative to adhesive remove, worked as expected though :)

Margarida Dinis - Reply

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