Introduction
このガイドを参照して、MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Late 2012 SSDを交換します。このMacBook ProはApple オリジナルのストレージドライブのコネクタを使用しています。それゆえ、アダプターなしでは一般的なM.2ドライブと互換性がありません。
この修理を始める前に、現在使用中のSSDのバックアップをしてください。それからinternet recoveryもしくはcreate a bootable external driveのガイドを読んで作業の理解をしてください。それから macOSを新しいドライブにインストールして、データーを移行してください。
最後にオリジナルSSDをMacBook Proから交換する前に、macOS 10.13 High Sierra (それ以降のmacOS)をインストールすることを強く推奨します。 最新ストレージドライバーを必要とする新SSDはHigh Sierra以前のmacOSバージョンに対応していません。
What you need
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底ケースと上部ケースを留めている次のネジを10本外します。
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2.3 mm P5ペンタロープネジー2本
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3.0 mm P5 ペンタロープネジー8本
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この作業中、外した各ネジの管理を安全に行ってください。再組み立ての際は、デバイスのダメージを防ぐため、正しい位置に装着してください。
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バッテリーボードに装着されているプラスチックカバーを外します。
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ピンセットを使って、バッテリーコネクターボードの右側底付近にある小さいプラスチックカバーを取り出します。
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
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ピンセットでインターポーザーを掴みます。
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インターポーザーをロジックボードから引き上げて外します。
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.
wat is the model this SSD
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SSDが残ります。
A most excellent step by step. I now need to figure out how to grant permission for my backup Air to read my removed Pro SSD files. Perhaps a link from here to that would be helpful.
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
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9 Comments
I followed the guide and was able to upgrade my wife's MacBook from 128GB to 240 GB!
One thing I noticed was that when I removed the plastic clip in step 6, it left behind a glue dot on the screw head I had to remove in step 7. I wasn't sure why my screwdriver kept rotating until I realized the clear dot was covering the screwed! Then I tweeze the dot off, and put it in the recess on the underside of the clip and all was good.
Everything went to the letter after, until it came time to restart and initialize the new disk. It turns out the old disk had some directory damage, so when it was copied to the new internal SSD, then the Mac wouldn't boot from it until I did a couple FSCK and Repair Disk fixes.
Vignesh,
Here is an option to recover your data and get a tiny speedy external SSD drive for 28.85
Sam,
The 2012 MacBook Pro uses an PCI Express Mini Card connection between the logic board and the SSD.
"Some notebooks (notably the Asus Eee PC, the MacBook Air, and the Dell mini9 and mini10) use a variant of the PCI Express Mini Card as an SSD. This variant uses the reserved and several non-reserved pins to implement SATA and IDE interface passthrough, keeping only USB, ground lines, and sometimes the core PCIe 1x bus intact.[11] This makes the 'miniPCIe' flash and solid state drives sold for netbooks largely incompatible with true PCI Express Mini implementations."
I fully agree, Especially as it turned out to be a little tricky to get the connector back in his position properly. Don't think there is a higher risk of damage through electric shock or so. Next time I will for sure skip it ;-)
Timpetou -
Aren’t steps 4-10 completely unnecessary?
That’s what i thought too!
I also agree. There is only one connection to the SSD cable. No other connectors to the SSD means other connections don't need to be removed. The only reason would be to limit any power spikes when removing the SSD cable itself, but that could also happen when removing the power connector in steps 4 thru 9 as well ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Removing the main power connector in my experience can be tricky and cause unintended damage. In one repair I damaged the trackpad connections and in another MacBook repair damaged the power connector itself as they can also be fragile. So the less connectors removed the better. This is not the first time that too many steps have been included in these procedures. i.e.: Battery replacement procedures require speakers be removed in one case that are also not necessary to remove.
I appreciate the effort in developing these procedures, thanks, they are very valuable.
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Is it compatible for macbook pro late 2012?
nvme crucial P5 Plus can install or not? thanks
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - Reply
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - Reply
It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.
Raymond Shpeley - Reply