• Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Reply

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Reply

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Reply

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Reply

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Reply

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Reply

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Reply

Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

anne uhlir - Reply

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

Jeannie Crowley - Reply

To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
  • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

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Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
  • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

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The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
  • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

  • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

  • Remove the I/O board cable.

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Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

Michael Kruger - Reply

Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
  • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

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Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

maccentric - Reply

Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case. Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
  • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

  • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

Rany - Reply

I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

Michael Kruger - Reply

Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

maccentric - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

Michael Kruger - Reply

Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
  • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

Michael Kruger - Reply

Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
  • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

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Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
  • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

  • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

Emilio - Reply

THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

samdaman91 -

Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

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When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.
  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.

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Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket. Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.
  • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

  • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me

Omar Lopez - Reply

Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger. Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.
  • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

  • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

  • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

  • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

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Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended to pry up from beneath the cables.

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Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
  • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • On some models these may be 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

Rany - Reply

Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

Fox MacLeod - Reply

I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

Corvallis Computer - Reply

Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
  • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

This is the same screws as step 17.

Joseph Lee - Reply

In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

adlerpe - Reply

Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)

Sam Lionheart - Reply

T8 screwdriver/head not listed as a tool. Please add to the tool list. Stuck at Step 27 and need to go buy one.

stephanee77 - Reply

Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
  • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

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Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive. Remove the right speaker from the upper case. Remove the right speaker from the upper case.
  • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive.

  • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.

Alexander Zub - Reply

Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught. During reassembly, make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the second picture.
  • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

  • During reassembly, make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the second picture.

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Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.
  • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

  • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

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Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.

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To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively. Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.
  • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively.

  • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

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Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
  • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

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  • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

  • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

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When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins. The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board. Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.
  • When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.

  • The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board.

  • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.

This step is REALLY helpful. I skimmed over it when disassembling and then struggled a bit trying to get the rubber gasket aligned just right.

The middle photo shows what I mean, it's exactly what I needed.

Daniel Cassel - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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7 Comments

Step 28 there is a T5 screw at the end of the heat sink which needs to be undone before the logic board can be removed this screw is hidden under the two ariel leads

Joe - Reply

great job! thanks a lot

Mike Mantouvalos - Reply

thank you for making it so easy. Great job, you deserve 5 stars *****

monikamansell - Reply

Is it possible to swap Macbook air's (2013) logic board for newer model's logic board? (let's say for 2015 macbook air's logic board).

Frykauf Lakost - Reply

Is it possible to swap Macbook air's (2013) logic board for newer model's logic board? (let's say for 2015 macbook air's logic board).???

sdabouras - Reply

Very clear and helpful, thank you.

If I did it again I would be more careful keeping the screws in separate containers as I took them out. Many of them look similar and it took some time to work out which went where.

petereid - Reply

With this guide, I successfully replaced my dead board with a second hand one that I bought from ebay.

It took around 2:30 hours with a lot of external distraction. So basically it takes 2 hours to replace the board.

Thank for this beautiful guide.

Aytek Dorken - Reply

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