Introduction

Use this guide to replace a faulty or broken display on your MacBook Air 13" Early 2015.

Video Overview

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Reply

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Reply

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Reply

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Reply

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Reply

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Reply

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Reply

Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

anne uhlir - Reply

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

Jeannie Crowley - Reply

To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
  • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

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Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
  • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

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The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
  • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

  • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

  • Remove the I/O board cable.

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Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

Hi, I messed up the socket, is there a replacement for the socket that holds the fans wire.

leonzar - Reply

macbook air 13" early 2015

leonzar - Reply

Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
  • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

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Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.3 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

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Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case. Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
  • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

  • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

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Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

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Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
  • Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

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Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
  • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

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Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
  • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

  • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry each of the antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry each of the antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry each of the antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

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Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger. Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.
  • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

  • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

  • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

  • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

When connecting this cable make sure the gold pins on the cable are facing upwards, away from the logic board.

George - Reply

Pull the plastic tab on the display data cable connector to unlock it. Pull the plastic tab on the display data cable connector to unlock it.
  • Pull the plastic tab on the display data cable connector to unlock it.

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Pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket. Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.
  • Pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

  • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

When connecting this cable make sure the gold pins on the cable are facing upwards, away from the logic board.

George - Reply

Remove the inner four (two on each side) 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right and left display hinges to the upper case. Leaving the outer screws in place for now will aid in disassembly.
  • Remove the inner four (two on each side) 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right and left display hinges to the upper case.

  • Leaving the outer screws in place for now will aid in disassembly.

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Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.
  • Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

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Open the display so that it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.
  • Open the display so that it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

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While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw from the left display bracket.
  • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw from the left display bracket.

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Turn the computer onto its opposite edge so the right display screw is now easily accessible.
  • Turn the computer onto its opposite edge so the right display screw is now easily accessible.

  • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

  • Remove the last 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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Open the Air slightly to allow room for the hinges to slide out of their notches. Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then push it back from the hinges. Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.
  • Open the Air slightly to allow room for the hinges to slide out of their notches.

  • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then push it back from the hinges.

  • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

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During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to tuck the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna back into its channel. During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to tuck the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna back into its channel.
  • During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to tuck the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna back into its channel.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

22 other people completed this guide.

iRobot

Member since: 09/24/2009

1 Reputation

725 Guides authored

5 Comments

Followed this guide to replace a broken display assembly on my Macbook Air. Complete everything in 40 minutes with little problem. My only problem was ripping the tab off the microphone ribbon cable which made this part a little bit more difficult, but didn't end up being a huge deal.

Nathan McAuley - Reply

Would you be able to replace the screen with a 13" macbook pro retina screen on the newest 2015 13" Macbook Air?

Nate - Reply

Excellent - just replaced a display. It's easier to reattach the ribbon cables for the mic and fan before putting I/O board and fan back in - that's the only suggestion I have.

cskellum4 - Reply

perfect guide! thanks a mil.

tech4eleven - Reply

Great Guide! Thank you! Took a little under an hour to complete!

Vladimir Estrin - Reply

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