Introduction

Use this guide to replace the heat sink.

Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste before reinstalling your heat sink.

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Reply

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Reply

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Reply

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Reply

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Reply

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Reply

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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Image 1/2: Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board. Image 2/2: Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.
  • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

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Image 1/2: While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket. Image 2/2: Remove the I/O board cable.
  • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

  • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

  • Remove the I/O board cable.

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Image 1/1: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

Michael Kruger - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

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Image 1/1: One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

maccentric - Reply

Image 1/2: Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it. Image 2/2: Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
  • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

  • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

Rany - Reply

I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

Michael Kruger - Reply

Image 1/1: Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.
  • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

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Image 1/2: Pry up from beneath the wires. Image 2/2: Pry up from beneath the wires.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

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Image 1/2: Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/2: Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

Michael Kruger - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

Michael Kruger - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

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Image 1/1: Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
  • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

  • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

Emilio - Reply

THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

samdaman91 -

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer on the left display hinge to the upper case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Push the antenna cable retainer out of the way and remove the single 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

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  • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all five screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

  • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

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Image 1/2: The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure the small post molded into the rubber gasket mates with the hole cut into the upper right corner of the logic board.
  • When reassembling your device, attach the gasket to the heat sink as shown.

  • The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board.

  • Be sure the small post molded into the rubber gasket mates with the hole cut into the upper right corner of the logic board.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Jeff Suovanen

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