Use this guide to replace the charge port on a LG G6. If you're having charging issues or your microphone isn't working, replacing the charge port is a good place to start.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

      • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Reply

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Reply

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Reply

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - Reply

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Reply

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - Reply

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Reply

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?



    Cedric VINCENT - Reply

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Reply

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Reply

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Reply

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Reply

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Reply

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Reply

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Reply

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Reply

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Reply

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Reply

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Reply

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Reply

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Reply

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - Reply

    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Reply

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Reply

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

    • Apply a heated iOpener to a long edge of the phone for about 2 minutes.

      • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

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    • In the following steps you will be cutting through the adhesive on the rear glass panel.

    • Take note of the following areas:

      • In addition to cutting around the edge, there is extra adhesive here that should be cut.

      • Avoid sticking the spudger blade in too far here, to avoid damaging the rear button ribbon cable and chip.

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    • Once the back panel is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup as close to the heated edge of the phone as you can.

      • The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass, so avoid putting it on the very edge.

    • Lift on the suction cup, and insert a halberd spudger or opening pick under the rear glass.

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    • Once you have the tool firmly inserted into the glass, reheat and reapply the iOpener to soften the adhesive.

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    • Slide the blade of a Halberd spudger along the side of the phone, separating the adhesive.

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    • Repeat the previous heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

    • Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

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    • Use the opening picks to slice through any remaining adhesive and open the phone.

    • Remove the glass from the phone.

    • During reassembly, apply new adhesive or high-bond tape if your replacement rear glass does not come with any.

    Which width should have the tape ? Tesa 61395 is proposed with 4 differents.


    Which width should the tape have ?

    Tesa 61395 is proposed with 4 different widths (1mm, 2mm, 4mm and 8mm).




    Hi Cyril! The 1 mm width is probably a good size for this repair since it’s mostly used right on the edge.

    Adam O'Camb - Reply

    • Slide the blade of a halberd spudger into the opening on the edge of the rear button bracket.

      • Careful not to push directly against the rear button ribbon cable, to avoid damaging it.

      • Do not push the spudger in too far, to avoid damaging the rear button.

    • Continue sliding the spudger blade around the bracket to cut all the adhesive holding the bracket to the rear case.

    • Remove the bracket.

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    • Slide an opening pick between the rear button membrane and the rear case.

    • Slide the pick around the edge of the membrane to separate it from the rear case.

    • This might take some force, as the adhesive holding the membrane to the case is tenacious. Pry slowly, to avoid puncturing or stretching the membrane.

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    • Use the blade of a halberd spudger to pry the rear button chip off of the rear case.

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    • Use an opening pick to pry the contact pad off of the rear case.

    • Remove the rear button assembly.

    After completing this step, if the replacement piece does not include the adhesive around the camera, the gold mesh adhesive, the clear middle adhesive, and the adhesive near the bottom corner, it is easy to remove and replace on the replacement part. You may also wish to transfer the QR sticker and barcode label for the IMEI onto the new piece.

    Talon - Reply

    You also must pry off and transfer over to the new back, the camera bracket. It is the big plastic piece that holds the power button in place. Also, the adhesive that is provided with the glass back kit from most vendors is not very sticky and tends to separate. I would recommend a better adhesive, like Tesa tape #61395. Just make sure that you fed it well before you push it down because that tape is extremely sticky and it’s hard to get it back up. It also seals well against moisture. You can use a little heat to activate it and it won’t come apart again unless you want it to.

    Julie - Reply

    This was honestly not a bad repair to do. Took me all of maybe 20 minutes to complete, and that was with heating the pad and getting the pic into the back of it. After that, pretty easy swap. Thanks for the great guide, you saved me $150 deductible!

    TJ Driscoll - Reply

    Is it still waterproof?

    Venuja Gunaratne - Reply

    Hi Venuja, if the adhesive and rear cover are both installed correctly, the phone should be water resistant, though probably not to the same level as before. I wouldn’t trust a repaired phone to be completely waterproof to the manufacturers specifications.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used this tutorial to first inspect and then replace a faulty fingerprint reader. I noted a couple of things I’d change in this guide, as well as a notes on replacing the fingerprint sensor assembly. In this guide:

    (1) I’d recommend having '''Tesa 61395 Tape''' in 4 mm in addition to a replacement '''rear cover tape kit'''. The areas noted in step 5 are areas where the adhesive is likely going to need to be replaced. Also, the adhesive securing the fingerprint reader will need to be replaced, as it does not stand up well to removal by prying.

    (2) The replacement cover adhesive sold by iFixit is only ~2mm wide. The original is ~ 4mm wide for more contact area. Given the importance of this to the IP68 rating, I’d like to see full thickness adhesive to the original spec. See the picture in step 13, above, to see the dimension on the original adhesive.

    (3) Reassembly is slightly more complex than simply reversing the steps. A bit of direction of reapplying adhesives and re-seating the fingerprint assembly would be useful.

    Taylor Says So - Reply

    Was ist das eigentlich für eine Einheit mit den vier Punkten im unteren Teil des Akkudeckels?

    Wozu brauche ich die? Es gibt auch Ersatzdeckel an denen diese Einheit nicht vorhanden ist. Was fehlt denn dann?

    Uwe Tilgner - Reply

    • Separate the rear glass from the phone,

    • Remove eleven Philips #00 screws.

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    • Use a spudger to remove the charging coil from the top left corner,

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    • Remove loudspeaker assembly.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD/Digitizer flex cable.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charge port flex cable.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera.

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    • Insert a SIM card opening tool into the small hole on the left side of the phone and remove the SIM card tray.

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    • Lift the motherboard out of the phone.

    • Be careful not to snag any of the connectors on the board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the adhesive securing the USB-C charge port to the frame.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Kevin Stuckey

Member since: 01/11/2015

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Excellent AAAAAAAAA ++++

Jose G Ramirez - Reply

Awesome tutorial, I skipped the from step 11 to 15. No need to remove the button assembly. Just skipped that and reused the back glass panel with no problems. Thank you!

Ben Fischer - Reply

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