MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace a dead battery in your MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011.

Use this guide to replace a worn-out battery.

8 Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the following ten screws:

8 Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

2 Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

2 Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

You're Done!

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45 Comments

Done! Now my Macbook Air has a new lease on life! I travel a lot and need good battery life on my Macbook so that I can work on flights, work throughout the day in meetings, do presentations etc.,

I ordered the battery and a pentelobe screwdriver from iFixit - they arrived quickly and as as promised in South Africa. The replacement took just a few minutes. The guide was very helpful and easy to follow. Now I have 6 hours of battery life again (or maybe a few minutes less ;-)

Thanks guys. I am very happy!

digitaldion - Reply

@digitaldion, Could you share what is time on a single charge now, after almost a year of active(?) use?

yurkennis -

I had spilled Iced Tea all over my new laptop. Soaked it in rice, but it only would work when it was plugged in. I read replacing the battery would fix it. Ordered the battery...came in 2 days, and I used the repair guide. Worked with 100% success and now my laptop runs like it's brand new.

Zane Dunnings - Reply

Did it! In less then 4 minutes. One extra tip: when you remove the screws, put them backwards on the table in the same pattern as you took them out. It saves time and avoids frustration :-) Thanks iFixit!

rkamphuis - Reply

Done! That was actually quite easy; I can't believe how easy it was to do. When I ordered the battery I also ordered the iFixit 54 Bit Driver Kit and I have to say that I will likely never have to buy any screwdrivers again for any computer related fix-ups I have to do. Thanks!

Berge - Reply

Just did it! The guide made the job really simple. I had absolutely no problem during the process. It is just as easy as it seems! Thanks, iFixit!

Hugo - Reply

super easy job!

ian - Reply

I changed the battery. It was very esay. However the MBA has now become very very slow. Can anyone explain this?

Michael Iversen - Reply

It's because incompatible battery model. It requires A1405.

Denis Rozhnev -

Replaced the new battery with my old one. Now everything works as normal again. What is this about. Please notice that the new battey is an original Apple battey - not a copy product.

Michael Iversen - Reply

> Please notice that the new battey is an original Apple battey - not a copy product.

How can you be sure it is original?

yurkennis -

I suspect they just re-use the original apple battery trays and put third party battery packs in them. The two batteries I ordered had Apple trays, but one was in a sealed box and the other box had no seal with a hand-written sticker on the battery tray. Plus, there was wear on the battery tray screw holes which tells me they have been used before.

Munky -

The replacement itself was easy enough, but it did not solve my problem - any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I have a Macbook Air 13" mid 2011, the battery only got to 121 cycles before it stopped holding a charge at all and I could only use the laptop when plugged into the power adapter. The battery status says "Not Charging" and the adapter status light does not glow when connected (it does function normally when plugged into any other computer, so the adapter is not the issue). The second it becomes disconnected the computer shuts down.

I just replaced the battery, one I ordered from iFixIt and the computer recognizes it, but it says cycle count: 0 and condition: replace now.

Charge Information:

Charge Remaining (mAh): 2545

Fully Charged: No

Charging: No

Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 6620

Health Information:

Cycle Count: 0

Condition: Replace Now

Battery Installed: Yes

Amperage (mA): 0

Voltage (mV): 7575

I'm at a total loss for what to do next to solve this problem. Any ideas?

crystalh - Reply

Check if the MagSafe port on your MacBook is intact — the small middle prong which is responsible for detecting and identifying the charger might be damaged. If it can't identify the charger, it will resort to only powering your laptop (as long as the other prongs work), but not charging it. As soon as you disconnect it, it shuts down because the battery is drained.

rale09 -

Super easy replacement job, and now my battery is like brand new again!

LeonC - Reply

Don't forget the Torx T5!

I already had a Torx set, so only bought the P5 driver, but turns out my set only went down to T6 :-(

Brian Candler - Reply

The first battery I received was faulty - it kept suddenly cutting out while in use - but iFixit were brilliant in sending a replacement immediately.

Hint: if after changing the battery your Macbook doesn't "bong" when it powers on (and you'd like to to!) then you can fix this by resetting the PRAM. See https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3...

Brian Candler -

Very great guide... coupled with the purchase of screwdriver / batter... phenomenal!

Thank you iFixIt!

Brendan Roche - Reply

Worked suberb! Thumbs up for the guide and the new battery!

robertbadas - Reply

Delivery and replacement were fast and easy. After booting up I checked the new battery with Coconut Battery and found the load cycles at 1 which was what I expected. The age of the battery was indicated as 37 months old and thus older than my MacBook Air. That's not what I expected.

Don't batteries get old from just lying around?

Skyynet - Reply

Am I the only one having trouble getting the screws out?

patrickdidomenico - Reply

My battery screws are the 6 pointed star ones, not the 5 pointed. Maybe you have the same?

effie -

The Ifixit P5 Pentalobe screw driver worked great to remove the Loctite cemented 51 PR case screws. The 5 battery screws are T5 Torx 6 pointed screws.

Cody Morgan -

I just did this repair, and it went very smoothly. The only problem I had with the instructions were that the screws on the battery were not the same 5-pointed stars as the one on the case. My battery has 6 pointed star screws. Luckily, I have both screwdrivers so this wasn't an issue. My connector also looked a bit different than the one in the photo, so maybe my laptop came from a different batch...?

effie - Reply

Maybe they edited the instructions, but as they are written today, the interior battery screws are torx and different from the case screws.

ethicalpaul -

Apple says these batteries need to be calibrated by an Apple technician and that's why replacement should be entrusted to Apple only. Does anyone know what Apple's pre-calibration process entails?

Julianps - Reply

I'm not saying that I know this for a fact concerning the Apple batteries, but often with Lithium (and this applies to the iPhone as well), draining the battery to 0, then giving it a full charge is basically the calibration.

john -

Well that was easy. Ordered the kit from ifixit. Took about 20 mins to take apart and change the battery. All good.

Lee

lee19apgar - Reply

Just completed my battery replacement and everything is working perfectly (with currently several hours of use). When removing the screws, I found it a little difficult using the iFixit brand "P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver". This is the screwdriver with the yellow handle. It felt as though it didn't actually enter the screw holes and was just barely fitting into it. I haven't used it, but I recommend the $11-12 one, especially if you plan on performing this procedure on other macbooks.

christianchew62 - Reply

Success!

Battery Guard details before->after http://fs2.directupload.net/images/15082...

Thank you iFixit

Michael Seitz - Reply

Ordered the battery and two screwdrivers linked from this page. The screws weren't laid out exactly as in the guide, but I did end up needing both screwdrivers. The replacement went pretty quick, but afterwards the battery status was being shown as "Condition: Replace Now" and was not charging. I did an SMC reset, which did not help. I then opened it back up and pressed on the parts mentioned in MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 I/O Board Replacement to make sure they were seated correctly, in addition to plugging and unplugging the battery. Afterwards, seems to be working correctly, thankfully.

yaneeka - Reply

Was very easy!! Remember to blow off your dusty fan when you're in there, it will cool down your mac considerably.

lesveur - Reply

Super easy agree - the only thing that i was a bit tenuous on was the Pentalobe screws because the screw driver i bought from you barely fit into the screw recess - sketchy can not tell if it was a poor tool or that was the way it was suppose to be.

andy

andrew keller - Reply

Did anyone had the following problem: after changing the battery, closing the MacBook Air, it's switching on when the charger is plugged, but the keyboard (including the on/off key) is not working any more and the fans are turning high speed?

Then, it's impossible to switch it off (as keyboard seems not to be recognised), neither to reboot or reinitiate SMC, etc...

Thanks by advance

alainjoubert - Reply

There are so many positive comments here, one more wouldn't hurt but with that being said I'm not going to make this into a bible.

The battery works like a charm.

Tools are very well crafted. Nothing flimsy considering how cheap they are.

Guides are just simply awesome, you'd have to be a toddler to not understand them nor be able to replace it on your own.

Transaction was smooth as your girl after she gets a brazilian wax.

The price is pretty much the same compared to taking it to an Apple Store to get your battery replaced but then again, would they clean up your fan and air dust the innards of your laptop with as much care as you would because it's yours? I don't know, that for me was the biggest factor upon deciding whether or not I should take it to an Apple Store. Now I have some peace of mind knowing that my 2nd girlfriend is clean and ready to show me her tig ol' bitties.

10/10 would stick my screwdriver in it again.

Thanks iFixit, you guys rock and keep up the good work.

Richard Ishimi - Reply

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Reply

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Reply

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Reply

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Reply

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Reply

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Reply

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Reply

The guide says: "Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board", but the battery model that I was replacing did not have a clear plastic pull tab at all...

The battery model shown in this guide is: A1405

I was installing battery model: A1406

A1406 has the following connector:

Top:

http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

Bottom:

http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

By looking at the bottom of the new battery I saw how it could be removed. Simply by a gentle upward movement. I very, very carefully nudged it a bit upwards using a screwdriver on the left and right side, as shown here:

http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

It came out fairly easy, luckily!

(And yes, I also cleaned up this MacBook before closing it again. It was a bit hairy in a literal way. Electronics and pets is not the best combination. ;-) )

This was a great guide!

wil - Reply

I think you may have been reading the wrong guide by mistake.

Looking at the various MacBook Air battery replacement guides, all of the 13" models show the connector depicted in this guide. All of the 11" models (e.g. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012 Battery Replacement) show a connector like the one in your photos.

shamino -