Installing iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429 Dual Hard Drive Kit

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Install the dual hard drive kit in an iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429.

This guide will help you install the dual hard drive kit.


Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

  • Loosen the three Phillips screws securing the access door to the bottom edge of your iMac.

  • These screws will remain captive in the access door.

  • Remove the access door from your iMac.

  • During reassembly, fasten the access door loosely and align it with the pocket cut into the outer case of the iMac before fully tightening the screws.

Edit Step 2 RAM  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2 RAM  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers or the tip of a spudger to slide the black plastic RAM tray pull tab out of the RAM slot.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pull the black plastic tab away from the iMac to eject the RAM chip from its socket.

    • The RAM modules are firmly seated and may require a fair amount of force to remove.

  • Use your fingers to slide the RAM chip out of its socket.

  • If necessary, repeat this process for the other RAM module(s).

Edit Step 4 Glass Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4 Glass Panel  ¶ 

  • Stick a heavy-duty suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel (as highlighted in the second picture).

  • While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle (as highlighted by the third picture).

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a damp soft, lint-free cloth. (Dampen with distilled water, and if needed, an equal ratio of distilled water and white vinegar for best results.)

  • Do not use the suction cups to carry the display glass because if one of them fails to stick, you could drop the screen and break it.

  • The original iMac box makes a good place to store the glass panel. Otherwise, a padded horizontal surface, like a towel on a desk will do nicely.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.

  • Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to meticulously clean the inside of the glass panel and the face of the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is turned on.

Edit Step 6 Display  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6 Display  ¶ 

  • Remove the eight T10 Torx screws securing the LCD to the outer case.

  • Be careful not to touch the display as the oil from your fingers may leave a residue that can be difficult to remove.

  • If necessary, peel the EMI gaskets located near the top center edge of the display assembly.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Carefully lay the iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.

  • Due to tight tolerances, you will have to use a thin hooked tool to lift the display out of the outer case. As seen in the first picture, we made one out of a bent paperclip.

    • Alternatively, our Dual Hard Drive Kit includes a pair of tweezers with an angled tip that are great for this task.

  • Use a thin hooked tool to lift one side of the top edge of the display by its steel outer frame.

  • After lifting the top edge of the display on one side, hold it out of the outer case while you use a hooked tool to lift the other side.

  • Raise and hold the display high enough to access the cables.

  • Do not lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case too far, as several short ribbon cables still connect the two components.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the vertical sync cable in the upper left corner of the screen. Use the tip of a spudger to push on the connector's side tabs and gently walk it out of its socket.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • This step bring your hands close to the exposed rear of the power supply. To avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board, do not touch the rear of the power supply.

  • Disconnect the LED back light driver cable with your hand by pressing the tab down and sliding it towards the bottom of the display.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Pull the black tab straight up to disconnect the latch on the display data cable ZIF connector.

  • Do not pull up too hard or you will damage the connector and socket.

  • Continue to pull the black tab up toward the top of the device, to detach the display data cable.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display power cable next to the display data cable.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the iMac case.

Edit Step 13 Optical Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pull the optical drive data cable out of the optical drive.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the optical drive thermal sensor connector out of its socket.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the four T10 Torx screws securing the optical drive to the iMac case.

  • The bottom left screw is slightly longer than the others.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the left edge of the optical drive and then pull it to the side to release the centering pins.

  • Be careful not to rip the thermal sensor cable as you remove the optical drive.

Edit Step 17 Dual Hard Drive Kit  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17 Dual Hard Drive Kit  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pull the optical drive fan connector out of its socket.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the SD board data cable connector out of its socket.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the I/O cable connector out of its socket.

  • Alternate pushing on the tabs on the side of the connector to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of the spudger to pull the microphone cable connector free of its socket.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Release the right and left speaker connectors from their sockets using the flat end of a spudger.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Locate the AirPort card at the top center of the logic board and just below the hard drive.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry each of the antenna cables off their sockets.

    • Do not disconnect the antennas by pulling on the cables as this may damage the cables, connectors, or sockets.

    • The antennas have markings to help you identify their order. The antenna with no marks goes to "CH0", the antenna with one mark goes to "CH1", and the antenna with two marks goes to "CH2".

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to push the camera/Bluetooth/ambient light sensor connector out of its socket.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Release the hard drive fan connector from its socket by pushing on its tabs using the flat end of a spudger.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Push the thermal sensor connector out of its socket with the flat end of a spudger.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to release the CPU fan cable

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of the spudger to push the ambient temperature sensor connector out of its socket.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pull the power button connector free of its socket.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Locate the IR sensor located behind the black apple logo.

  • If necessary, peel the tape covering the IR sensor.

  • Remove the IR sensor by pulling it straight up and out of the case.

  • Do not attempt to completely remove the IR sensor from the case as it is still attached to the logic board.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Remove the eight T10 Torx screws securing the logic board and heat sink assembly to the iMac case.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Simultaneously lift and rotate the logic board and heat sink assembly away from the iMac case until you can easily access the back side of the logic board.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Locate the secondary SATA socket, next to the primary SATA socket.

  • Plug in the included SATA data/power cable.

  • The hard drive cable side with only one connector goes into the logic board connector.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Route the new SATA cable through the indentation that the primary SATA cable goes through and into the optical drive bay.

  • Not all of the 27” iMacs (2011) have the channel in the optical drive wall to route SSD cabling. If you have one of these iMacs, you can simply route the cables under the optical drive.

  • Set the logic board back into place, being careful not to catch, cover, or pinch any cables.

  • Be sure that the SATA cable has as much slack as possible and that it is not tangled with any other cables.

  • Make sure the cables are not stacked on top of each other; they have to lay as flat as possible

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • To secure your new drive in your iMac, you will need to place high strength double-sided tape at the four corners on the side of the drive with the SATA connectors.

  • Peel the backing off one side of the double sided tape.

  • Press the exposed adhesive side of the double sided tape to the corner of the SSD.

  • Be sure not to cover the SATA connectors with the double sided tape.

  • Repeat the above process for the remaining 3 corners.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Connect both the SATA data and SATA power connectors to their respective sockets on the SSD.

  • Peel the backing off of the double sided tape.

  • Carefully set the SSD into the iMac optical bay as close to the lower left corner as possible.

  • Do not to repeatedly stick and un-stick the tape, as the adhesive will become weaker.

  • Once you are happy with the SSD's placement, firmly press down along its edges to ensure full adhesion.

  • When re-installing the optical drive, the SATA cable will be sandwiched between the foam padding and the optical drive.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order from Step 27.

For more information, check out the iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429 device page.

Required Tools

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Don´t forget to take out the RAM first. Otherwise it is very difficult to replace the logic board back in it´s place.

B Riefel, · Reply

Excellent guide. Thank you!

I got through everything, turned on the iMac, got the start up gong, and ... nothing. Screen stayed black and the fans started blowing like crazy, indicating failure of Apple Hardware Test. All my attempts to remedy (zap PRAM, reset SMC) failed. Uh oh.

Opened the machine back up, took out the LCD, and re-seated all four connections from display panel to logic board. Crossed my fingers and put it back together. This time, the displayed turned on, the Apple logo appeared, system booted up, and the new SSD appeared on the desktop. Yay!

The connectors from the LCD are delicate. It's tricky to seat them properly without damaging them, but don't close it up without a positive click on each one.

The upgrade has been fantastic so far. SanDisk 120GB SSD. Dramatic speed improvement. Well worth all the surgery on the machine.

claytonhibbert, · Reply

in step 22 you can see the wifi cables are not connected anymore. but there is no step that shows you should disconnect them

R Sonnema, · Reply

+1 Unfortunately mine has been broken (CH1 cable is out from the UFL connector). Unfortunately I do not now how to repair it.

It would be important to add this step in order to protect others falling into the same issue.


i followed this guide to the T. used a 240gig Corsair GS and after it gets far along the boot process the fans blow at max speed! i took the monitor off again to make sure i had all the connections in the right place. there was one i was missing... the ambient temp lol. but i plugged it back in and still fans blow full blast :( gonna keep messing with it to see if i can figure it out :)

paulhizo, · Reply

Hi, I have successfully installed a 1TB Seagate Hybrid hard drive and everything seems fine, except the fans are blowing at full speed constantly. Is this because the heat sensor for the optical drive is missing now? Has anyone got a solution?

Thank you

Andy, · Reply

It's because the standard Seagate drives contain a proprietary thermal sensor. you will have to purchase HDD Fan Control to get it to stop. It's the only solution short of shorting out the thermal sensors (dangerous).

Install the trial and you'll see.

Steven Hanlon,

I wouldn't recommend using HDDFanControl, because its not really a long term fix... I used it for a while, but it frustrated me that the fans didn't idle until the machine was fully booted, so if you need to do anything in single user mode, safe mode or even a boot camp or separate OSX boot up, you cannot use it. In the 2011 range, i'd recommend using this as a long term hardware solution

Jon Ridley,

All sorted!! I didn't realise I could install the optical drive back over the new hard drive, the fan keeps both very cool. Once I connected the optical drive & thermal sensor the fans calmed down to 1100 rpm. If you don't want to install the optical drive just take off the thermal sensor and connect it to the new hard drive and the logic board. Another thing I have learned in this experience is you need the optical drive in to install Windows (bootcamp) or you get a partitioning error at install. It is a safety feature Apple incorporated. Hope this helps others!! Thanks again for the replies


OWC has a pretty good vid of this mod, including lots of important cautions which are absent from this guide. OWCmacsales is the channel name. I will be using all available material as this mod is high on the pucker-power scale.

hodinink, · Reply

Why has double sided tape been used in this guide instead of the SSD brackets that are designed to be screw mounted under the optical drive? there are 3 screw mounts allocated to the mounting of the SSD. With the heat that is generated by the iMac machines, i'd be worried about it losing its bond and falling down, especially using tape bought from Boots instead of high strength industrial tape...

Jon Ridley, · Reply

We found that Apple removed the SSD brackets / screw holes in later units of the same model, and we wanted a universal solution that would help everyone add a dual drive to their iMac.

Miroslav Djuric,

The hack worked perfectly, thank you ifixit team & support!

There was a slight amount of compression when re-setting the logic board, but it doesn't appear to have stressed or pinched anything (yet). It certainly goes in a bit awkwardly. It does suffer a bit of a twist while man-handling it in & out. A bit unnerving.

The first set of suction cups had a defect and one wouldn't hold, & ifixit sales got one in the mail lickety split. +5 stars, ifixit sales!

A few suggestions managing airborne dust:

— do the hack on a windless, foggy day

— see the OWC video for how to handle & temporarily store the glass & LCD

— use a small camel-hair brush to drag dust mites to the edge of the LCD or glass during re-assembly.

Not sure what I'll do about internal dust in a year or so . . .

hodinink, · Reply

I followed this guide successfully with the kit from ifixit and everything works very nicely. However, I somehow lost the sd card cable, which is not a big deal since my mom doesn't use the sd card slot. I'll put it back next year when I replace the hdd.

If you are planning on doing this, I have a couple of suggestions for you:

* count the cables you disconnect

* before putting the logic board back in, tape all the cables to the sides with some masking or electrical tape and count them again

* try not to touch the lcd, fingerprints are a pain to remove, don't touch the underside of the glass panel either, put it down suction cups down

The guide may look scary, but it's really not that bad.

rkitover, · Reply

Don't forget to install Trim Enabler or Chameleon SSD Optimizer for TRIM

Trim Enabler:

Chameleon SSD Optimizer:

Pepijn, · Reply

In the guide step 32 I see that connector is L-shaped, but in the kit picture it is not L-shaped. How important is to have L-shaped connector? Is there a place for a straight one?

Ivars Strazdins, · Reply

Thanks to you iFixit ! Perfect guide !

Iron42, · Reply

I did this upgrade this week and was successful. I definitely don't recommend attempting this if you've never done a PC build, studied PC repair, or don't have steady hands. It helps a lot if you have a spare laptop playing the OWC video and playing/pausing it as you do each step. Also, I wore latex gloves to help prevent fingerprints from getting on the LCD.

A tip for migrating to the SSD: install a new OS instead of cloning. After I installed the SSD, I could not get into the Recovery due to some error, which using Recovery is an essential step to migrate OS X from the HDD to the SSD. A way around this issue is downloading Mavericks via the Mac App Store and do a new OS X install. From there, install OS X on your new SSD, then use the Migration Assistant to move everything to your new drive, which it does really well for you. Then, you can toggle Startup Disk in System Preferences (in case you aren't booting using the SSD).

Oh, and don't forget to manually enable TRIM on your new SSD.

mtlangr, · Reply

I installed the ssd and now I have the cpu fan running at full blast. it seems to start about 10 seconds after the iMac starts. I've go far as to undo and redo all of the steps TWICE. I've also detached the ssd and the cpu fan still runs at full blast. I've also tried the software solution and nothing works? It seems to be running at 3800 constantly. Any ideas? Please HELP!

andrewbpark, · Reply

Great guide.

Today I installed a Samsung EVO 840 250GB SSD behind the optical drive and swapped out the original 1TB Seagate HDD for a 2TB one. Works great.

This is not a very difficult thing to do. Just keep calm.

The hardest thing was to put the motherboard back in place...

My tips:

1. Read the steps a couple of times.

2. Have someone helping you holding the panel up while disconnecting those 4 cables.

3. Use a spudger and your fingernails to remove the cables. (spudger on one side/tab, fingernail on the other tab, or if possible just fingernails.

4. Mark every cable you disconnect (for example "pwr btw"). This make the rewiring a piece of cake.

5. Don't clean the "glass" with anything other than very hot water. I held it on the edges and held it in the shower. Any glass polisher or so will give you a headache. (I have tried to get it really clean several time before) Now its as good as new.

6. Yes. The fans WILL spin, but I use HDD fan control. Now it's super-SILENT ;)

twebbas, · Reply

There are too many steps in this guide that are unnecessary. Reading the comments, it seems like people are making mistakes and having problems. Follow the online video at OWC and it is an easier process, although still advanced. When you buy an SSD kit, it includes the proper length SATA cable and thermal double-sided tape. Someone commented about an SSD bracket behind the optical drive. Apple did not include the SSD bracket unless you bought the Mac build-to-order directly from Apple with their SSD installed. That is why thermal double-sided tape is used to secure the drive behind the optical drive. It won't go anywhere because the drive rests on the top of the optical bracket when you press it against the back panel, and the optical drive is re-installed in front of the SSD holding it in place. I did this upgrade about a year ago using a Samsung 840 EVO 1TB SSD and it is awesome.

Peter Hillman, · Reply

Done it in a hour and a half, great guide! "Hardest" part was replacing the mother board :s.

If you want to save money, you can buy your tools on eBay, 1st prices 3$ Torx T10, 3$ opening tools set, 10$ sata power cable, guitar pick instead of suction cups

Remi Nguyen Dinh, · Reply

Well. First I tried to source all of the parts in Canada, thinking it would take forever to get here from ifixit. I wasted more time doing that than anything else. It took 3 days for the HD, cables and repair kit to get here.

I have worked on, in and around computer my whole career so I was eager to take this on. The tear down and installation were straight forward (have the guide handy) but getting the main board seated in the right spot was frustrating to say the least. It wouldn't go back in, it took me over 30 minutes of careful attempts . It is all in there now and I am extremely happy with the performance and the storage!

You will need a fan controller software.

clevepohl, · Reply

Anyone know of a GOOD 'how to' on using the terminal to make this a functional Fusion Drive? I can't get mine to unmount to wipe then merge it, been trying for 2 days

William Evans, · Reply

How many 4MB cards can I install?

nowsc, · Reply

None. 4mb ram is too old to fit into any computer manufactured after like 1998.

Brett Davison, · Reply


I suggest that you learn your unit symbols before you try to appear clever:

4mb == 4 milli bits

4MB == 4 mega bytes

nowsc was obviously meaning 4GB not 4MB, try not to be a dick.

Simon, · Reply

You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

Nick Caron, · Reply

Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

jtowner, · Reply

Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

Eddie, · Reply

Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and for fan control.

Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

Frank303, · Reply

I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this:

Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

Allen Borza,

you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

Lau, · Reply

do you still have this panel?

Alpha Dimension,

Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

ganesh, · Reply

I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

Jay Gillibrand, · Reply

Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

maccentric, · Reply

Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

Look at pictures:

fabio4, · Reply

I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

Timo Laak,

Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

Thanx a bunch!

Esteban Garcia,

i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

LUIS, · Reply

me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

strcarlos, · Reply

This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

Alex Nelson, · Reply

Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.


The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

ganesh, · Reply

When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

johnhugh, · Reply

FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (

zackduchene, · Reply

Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job.


Do not disconnect the wires. Way over complicated. Follow the OWC instructions instead: unscrew the single Torx T6 screw and then wiggle the airport card off of its socket completely. No need to remember markings or add warnings about sensitive cables. Very easy step if done as described.

Pim, · Reply

I have got the ssd installed as my second drive using the dual drive kit. However, after reassembling everything, the CPU fan is running at full speed. Apple Hardware Test shows a failure for the error code TA0P, which points to a failure of ambient temperature sensor/connector. I have reassembled this machine 3 times now, with and without the ssd installation components and the problem is not going away.

Does anyone know a fix for this? I do not have warranty on this machine (2011 iMac. 27'') to get the logic board replaced for free. However, I'm willing to get the sensor connector checked by a technician if that would fix it.

Requesting help! :-(

Gurpartap Singh, · Reply

Does the additional sata cable has one male and a female end or else? Could someone post a link to the right cable on amazon for example?

tokamilian, · Reply

Today I have completed the installation of a Crucial MX100 254GB successfully. With help of the guides from ifixit and OWC it was not that difficult.

However, when I booted my iMac the fans started raving.

I reset SMC and PRAM several times. Opened the machine again to check connectors and cables. Same story as above.

Everything looked fine, but the fans kept spinning at max. Seems like a booby- trap, it happens again and again.

I would prefer things to work different but I now use Macs Fan Control to keep the peace.

I hope this riddle will be solved one day.

Clemens, · Reply

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