Introduction

Use this guide to replace the display assembly on your HTC One M8. This assembly includes the digitizer and the LCD panel.

Please note that your device may have a large amount of copper shielding and tape covering the back of the display assembly, as shown here. If this is the case, you'll need to gently remove it to get at the motherboard.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the upper left hand side of the phone. Press to eject the tray.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the upper left hand side of the phone.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

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Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.
  • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

My phone have a problem from sim card rejected ,

shola - Reply

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the microSD card tray, located on the upper right hand side of the phone. Press to eject the tray.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the microSD card tray, located on the upper right hand side of the phone.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

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Remove the microSD card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.
  • Remove the microSD card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.

  • When reinserting the microSD card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the upper and lower speaker grilles. Refer to the iOpener guide for info on how to use the iOpener.
  • Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the upper and lower speaker grilles.

I used a heat gun settings 200 at 75, but I also found using a hair dryer works just as well. Heated up the bezels came right off and for putting back on I heated it back up and they have stayed put.

Jason Cobb - Reply

I used a hair dryer for this which worked fine but I didn't need to heat it for as long as I did. 10-20 seconds is enough to start. I didn't realise how hot it would get so after heating for 90 seconds on high heat the phone was absolutely roasting and I've got two spots of heat damage on my screen. Still all works though luckily.

Ian - Reply

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the lower speaker grille. The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone. The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the lower speaker grille.

  • The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone.

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Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the upper speaker grille. Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the upper speaker grille.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the upper speaker grille.

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Remove the two silver 3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the top.
  • Remove the two silver 3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the top.

  • Remove the four black 4 mm T5 Torx screws from the bottom.

The markers on step 8 were wrong. The 4 black TX screws are actually all in the bottom, while the silver screws are on top.

WP7User - Reply

Nice good good

tamerseleman68 - Reply

Work your way around the perimeter of the phone with a spudger and plastic opening picks to free the clips that secure the rear case to the display assembly. A metal spudger is pictured, but it is best to use a nylon spudger to prevent marring the device. Be careful not to lose the power button: it sits loosely in the top of the lower chassis.
  • Work your way around the perimeter of the phone with a spudger and plastic opening picks to free the clips that secure the rear case to the display assembly.

    • A metal spudger is pictured, but it is best to use a nylon spudger to prevent marring the device.

    • Be careful not to lose the power button: it sits loosely in the top of the lower chassis.

  • Significant force may be required to pry the casing apart.

Note: the pictures make it look like it's the glass the comes loose from the body. In fact, it's the metal shell the comes off, while all of the electronics are attached to the face. To get it started, you have to dig your spudger in between the metal shell and the little plastic rim that goes around the glass. I found it easiest to start in the middle, below the volume buttons.

Kael Shipman - Reply

I wish this was more clear in the picture. I ended up cracking my screen/digitiser trying to pry the glass open... the more you know!

NzUddin -

I tried starting by the volume buttons but was having no luck. I found starting just under the sim card worked best. Raising the whole side and the top up allowed the rest to come out. Be mindful of the charging port at the bottom and don't force the bottom out first but rather lift the top end out then the charger will clear. Same goes for putting back together. Charger port in first them push down on the sides and top.

Jason Cobb - Reply

I used guitar picks to wedge inside the case as I prised it open

Ian - Reply

Remove the two silver 2mm Phillips #00 screws securing the battery connector to the motherboard. Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery connector.
  • Remove the two silver 2mm Phillips #00 screws securing the battery connector to the motherboard.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery connector.

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Use a spudger to disconnect the two ZIF connectors. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the black antenna cable. Use a set of tweezers to pull the two ribbon cables free of the ZIF connectors.
  • Use a spudger to disconnect the two ZIF connectors.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the black antenna cable.

  • Use a set of tweezers to pull the two ribbon cables free of the ZIF connectors.

Note that there are two hardware versions of the replacement part. One has one antenna connector, the other has two antenna connectors. The iFixit part labeled "Sprint" is the one-connector version. It is the most common. It may be labeled "16GB" on ebay and from other sellers. My 32GB T-Mo device required the "16GB" version of the hardware, so use caution when ordering. The iFixit part labeled "Verizon" is the two-connector version. You may see this one labaled "32GB" on ebay. My understanding is that the 2-connector part is for Verizon & AT&T Windows M8s, but I could be mistaken.

If you don't know which hardware you need, and you are ordering parts before cracking open your device, I would suggest (at least at 2017 ebay prices) ordering one of each and returning the one you don't need.

Alex LeDonne - Reply

Be mindful of the small ZIF connector, as when you remove it, it will stick out from the back of the phone and can be easily damaged if you put the phone with its back on the table. Better put it flat again after you loosen the cable

As happened to me; the white part came loose, but I managed to put it back. However, it doesnt have as much r'resistance' as initially. Nevertheless my phone is still working, so probably the small ZIF is only to keep the cable in place. This kept me sweating for quite some time...

AG Draaijer - Reply

Remove the single silver 4mm T5 Torx screw securing the headphone jack/micro USB board. You may need to gently bend the small ribbon cable out of the way to get to the screw. Use a pair of tweezers or a plastic opening tool to gently pry the headphone jack/micro USB board up and out of the phone.
  • Remove the single silver 4mm T5 Torx screw securing the headphone jack/micro USB board.

    • You may need to gently bend the small ribbon cable out of the way to get to the screw.

  • Use a pair of tweezers or a plastic opening tool to gently pry the headphone jack/micro USB board up and out of the phone.

There is a small rubber pad stuck to the inside end of the headphone jack. You can see it in the 3d picture that goes with this step, slightly offset to the right. Your new part will almost certainly not include this rubber pad. Stick it on the new headphone jack. This helps keep your M8 a little more water-resistant, as the pad is covering a small hole.

Alex LeDonne - Reply

There is some adhesive sticking the board to the phone, you will need to reapply the heating pad to easily lift of the part.

Gibson Scisco - Reply

There are also small surface mount components on the bottom side (opposite the USB connector) that can be broken if the board is pulled out without first lifting it up and away from the adhesive. I just successfully repaired the USB connector (solder joints on all pins were broken) and replaced a couple of the 0402 size resistors that broke off the USB board when removing it from the phone, and the phone is now charging again. Thanks for the step by step tear down - it helped save me from not destroying the M8 while opening it up!

Brian West - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the seven ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the seven ribbon cables free of the connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the seven ribbon cables free of the connectors.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the seven ZIF connectors.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the seven ribbon cables free of the connectors.

Top left connector does not need to be detached and is tricky to put back in

woitas2 - Reply

Use an iOpener to loosen the adhesive securing the display assembly to the rest of the device. Use a suction cup to gently separate the display assembly from the rest of the device. Use a suction cup to gently separate the display assembly from the rest of the device.
  • Use an iOpener to loosen the adhesive securing the display assembly to the rest of the device.

  • Use a suction cup to gently separate the display assembly from the rest of the device.

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Carefully guide the display assembly ribbon cable through the midframe for removal. Carefully guide the display assembly ribbon cable through the midframe for removal. Carefully guide the display assembly ribbon cable through the midframe for removal.
  • Carefully guide the display assembly ribbon cable through the midframe for removal.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Michael Gonzalez

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Great guide - many thanks!

In step 13, you only need to disconnect four ZIF connectors - the top two on the left and top one on the right can be left connected.

Thanks again!

Byrn

Byrn - Reply

Be careful when reassembling:

Make sure the power button is put in the right way, it may look symmetrical but it's not! When put in the wrong way it does not work. Check if the shape of the button aligns with the edge of the casing, it's pretty easy to see if you pay attention to it.

Also keep an eye on the back camera. The round black cover glass may shift when trying to click the phone in its casing.

I ended up taking it apart at least 4 times because of this :(

Also, if you want to heat things up you can also use an incandescent light bulb and put your phone over it.

Jan de Vries - Reply

position of the square block on the power button is a little bit left from the center (phone facing you with screen)

AG Draaijer -

don't follow step 13 in fact &&^& this guide listen to byrn

DeAndre Barron - Reply

very helpful, thanks

Stuart Gilks - Reply

This is a good guide, but indeed Byrn made it better !

Re-assembly can be stressful, especially since the phone will go into 'safe mode' or get stuck into the bios boot screen.

Apparantly, when the 2 volume buttons are not working, or pressed in continuously, this makes the OS go into a frenzy, and you're stuck in safe mode.

I tried to assemble the back cover (with power already on, as then there is no cover button pressing), but it went wrong and eventually my phone got stuck in the boot screen and the power button was also not working anymore.

So I opened the phone (with power on) and removed the battery cable (step 10), which reset my phone again, after which is was booting normally.

Assembly of back cover was finally well achieved by inserting the top-right first to ensure proper alignment to the power and volume buttons.

AG Draaijer - Reply

Now I'm finished, I also found this youtube guide, which is better than the ones I used to do my 'surgery'

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation...

AG Draaijer - Reply

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