Introduction

Use this guide to replace the battery in your HTC One M8.

Please note that your device may have a large amount of copper shielding and tape covering the back of the display assembly, as shown here. If this is the case, you'll need to gently remove it to get at the motherboard.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the upper left hand side of the phone. Press to eject the tray.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the upper left hand side of the phone.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

I just successfully completed the battery replacement on m8 using this guide…thought I would add a comment at each step to follow my story. This step of course should be easy if you’ve put the phone back together.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.
  • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

My phone have a problem from sim card rejected ,

shola - Reply

Another easy step if you have the right tool

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the microSD card tray, located on the upper right hand side of the phone. Press to eject the tray.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the microSD card tray, located on the upper right hand side of the phone.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

another easy step if you have the right tool

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Remove the microSD card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.
  • Remove the microSD card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.

  • When reinserting the microSD card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

another easy step if you have the right tool

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the upper and lower speaker grilles. Refer to the iOpener guide for info on how to use the iOpener.
  • Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the upper and lower speaker grilles.

I used a heat gun settings 200 at 75, but I also found using a hair dryer works just as well. Heated up the bezels came right off and for putting back on I heated it back up and they have stayed put.

Jason Cobb - Reply

I used a hair dryer for this which worked fine but I didn't need to heat it for as long as I did. 10-20 seconds is enough to start. I didn't realise how hot it would get so after heating for 90 seconds on high heat the phone was absolutely roasting and I've got two spots of heat damage on my screen. Still all works though luckily.

Ian - Reply

Disassembly: I did NOT use any heating elements. I have a straight edge razor (like you use to scrape off window decals). Gently push in 1 point of the straight edge and work in the rest of it. Then use a spudger slowly to remove the grills.

Assembly: Enough adhesive should be left to reinstall the grill with no problem. Be careful align it perfectly then don’t be afraid to give a good push into place.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the lower speaker grille. The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone. The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the lower speaker grille.

  • The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone.

Disassembly: I did NOT use any heating elements. I have a straight edge razor (like you use to scrape off window decals). Gently push in 1 point of the straight edge and work in the rest of it. Then use a spudger slowly to remove the grills.

Assembly: Enough adhesive should be left to reinstall the grill with no problem. Be careful align it perfectly then don’t be afraid to give a good push into place.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

You need to get between the thin black rim and the grey speaker cover, not between the metal and the black rim.

Nebuar - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the upper speaker grille. Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the upper speaker grille.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the upper speaker grille.

Be careful on these steps to not bend the grill while removing.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Remove the two silver 3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the top.
  • Remove the two silver 3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the top.

  • Remove the four black 4 mm T5 Torx screws from the bottom.

The markers on step 8 were wrong. The 4 black TX screws are actually all in the bottom, while the silver screws are on top.

WP7User - Reply

Nice good good

tamerseleman68 - Reply

Do yourself a favor and get a proper set of small screwdrivers including smaller Torx bits T5-T10 (especially with magnetism)…you’ll thank me later. Getting the cheap kits from Amazon or included in the order will likely not work or strip easy.

Disassembly: be easy with the screws and don’t strip them. organize your workspace. i put the top screws next to my top speaker grill on the left of my workspace (and worked left to right…so that assembly was right to left) and bottom torx next to my bottom speaker grill.

Assembly: be easy with the screws and don’t strip them. you will definitely feel the stopping point and don’t add extra torque.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Work your way around the perimeter of the phone with a spudger and plastic opening picks to free the clips that secure the rear case to the display assembly. A metal spudger is pictured, but it is best to use a nylon spudger to prevent marring the device. Be careful not to lose the power button: it sits loosely in the top of the lower chassis.
  • Work your way around the perimeter of the phone with a spudger and plastic opening picks to free the clips that secure the rear case to the display assembly.

    • A metal spudger is pictured, but it is best to use a nylon spudger to prevent marring the device.

    • Be careful not to lose the power button: it sits loosely in the top of the lower chassis.

  • Significant force may be required to pry the casing apart.

Note: the pictures make it look like it's the glass the comes loose from the body. In fact, it's the metal shell the comes off, while all of the electronics are attached to the face. To get it started, you have to dig your spudger in between the metal shell and the little plastic rim that goes around the glass. I found it easiest to start in the middle, below the volume buttons.

Kael Shipman - Reply

I wish this was more clear in the picture. I ended up cracking my screen/digitiser trying to pry the glass open... the more you know!

NzUddin -

I tried starting by the volume buttons but was having no luck. I found starting just under the sim card worked best. Raising the whole side and the top up allowed the rest to come out. Be mindful of the charging port at the bottom and don't force the bottom out first but rather lift the top end out then the charger will clear. Same goes for putting back together. Charger port in first them push down on the sides and top.

Jason Cobb - Reply

I used guitar picks to wedge inside the case as I prised it open

Ian - Reply

Why do they design it to make it so difficult to replace the battery?

Rich Hanes - Reply

Disassembly: did not use any heating elements. used my straight edge razor near the top left side opposite the volume rocker (it should go in pretty far and worked until i heard the first clip pop. worked around the top and down the right side. as others mentioned, you’re getting the top loose then rocking out the unit to not screw up the charge port. DO NOT LOSE THE POWER BUTTON.

Assembly: hold the shell with charge port up and place the power button (this keeps it from falling out while assembling). put charge port in first then slowly work your way around the side little by little. I started hearing the clips pop into place maybe as I working around the perimeter on the 3rd try. after that, give it some good force as the unit should almost be flush with the shell.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

After destroying the tip of three nylon spudgers, I would like to advocate using a METAL spudger, as shown in the picture. Just be careful to minimize scarring of the metal cover. But, the nylon spudger definitely is not strong enough to release the chassis, especially since these phones tend to be pretty old and set in their ways at this point in time. With a metal spudger, I was able to separate the back from the chassis in just a few minutes, after spending over 30 minutes failing with the nylon spudgers.

christopher e m - Reply

Remove the two silver 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the battery connector to the motherboard. Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery connector.
  • Remove the two silver 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the battery connector to the motherboard.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery connector.

This caused a bit of grief for me on the reassembly. Be very mindful of the battery connector when installing the new battery. Look closely at the connector there is what appears to be a diode on the underside that needs to mate with proper contact to another diode on the motherboard. This is what actually allows communication between the phone and the motherboard. If this connection isn't mated properly you will get a 0% indicator on the screen and no charging occurring. Also the orange LED will flash 6 times and repeat. I suggest before placing the phone back together completely in the case to screw the motherboard back together and attach all ribbon cables and mate the battery. Then plug it in a charger and make sure you get proper battery communication and charging. DO NOT power on the phone at this point. Unplug the charger and put everything back together and you should be ok.

Jason Cobb - Reply

I have 2 of these devices and both had Philips #000 screws holding the battery connector in this picture. If the screw doesn’t catch and turn easy then try #000 or else you risk stripping the head.

Stewart Diamond - Reply

Jason Cobb’s tip is key. You saved me a lot of trouble, thank you! I didin’t get the connector mated properly at first, and that quick check let me find out. Got it the second time, the screen showed the battery percent and the normal charging screen.

Eric P - Reply

Disassembly - pretty easy, don’t strip the screws and use spudger. The pictures do not show that you might have a small rubber gasket on the screw closest to the charge port…KEEP IT. I also had a white wire that attached just above the charge connector.

Assembly - as Jason said…the most frustrating part of assembly was getting that dang connector aligned into place. Put the white wire and gasket back in place before attempting. I gently used my fingernail until I felt it on the connector then had to give it a GOOD amount of force to pop in. then add the screws.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Extra note on assembly - as mentioned above, this is a great spot to stop and connect to charger without powering on. you should get a solid orange light and charging icon / percentage on the screen. make it quick with the connect and disconnect

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Use a spudger to disconnect the two antenna cables. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the seven ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the seven ribbon cables free of the connectors.
  • Use a spudger to disconnect the two antenna cables.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the seven ZIF connectors.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the seven ribbon cables free of the connectors.

All my connectors were covered in fibrous copper tape

Karl Horton - Reply

In mine, there were also two cables connecting at the top left of the motherboard to the daughterboard above as well, and where there is only one antenna cable in the bottom left of the default image, there were two.

William Miceli - Reply

Tape covered my whole assembly as well and the antenna cables were the same as previous poster.

Jason Cobb - Reply

The two cables at the top of the motherboard near the camera, mentioned by commenters above, will have a small rubber pad on top of them. You may wish to keep that pad. Also not pictured here is the LED surround. It can easily come loose from the motherboard. Don't lose that either.

Alex LeDonne - Reply

I accidentally broke the ribbon cable in the upper left that dives under the blue daughterboard. I'm not sure how, but it was probably trying to get the tape loose. The only problem it seems to have caused is that the proximity sensor (next to the front-facing camera) doesn't work and neither does the notification LED.

KC Baltz - Reply

Hi im trying to locate on internet the ZIF connector for the digitizer but its impossible to know how many PINS does it have can you help ?

Pawel Pieta - Reply

Mine was covered in tape as well. I gently pealed it off and managed to leave most of it intact for when I put it back together. Also had the two cables connected at the top left, they can be detached and reattached in the same way as the other two at the bottom. Just lift them off using a spudger when detaching then hold them in place with tweezers whilst pushing down on top with a small screw driver until it clicks in when reattaching.

Ian - Reply

Disassembly - I was one of the lucky ones to have pretty much this ENTIRE SPACE covered in tape. I peeled off the middle pieces completely using spudger and tweezers. for the ones over the ZIF’s….i peeled enough off to get them free then I used tweezers to lift the excess tape and my straight edge razor to cut the excess. be careful especially around the volume cables if tape is on them. At this point, disconnect the black cable on the right at the bottom and fold it away, then tackle the disconnects. the top left disconnect will be your worst enemy b/c the cable is folded under the mother board. be gentle.

Assembly - use tweezers and spudger to get the connectors back in…double check all of them. I did the top left one first as i knew it would frustrate me the most. the rest went quick and easy.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Remove three silver 3mm screws using T5 screwdriver.
  • Remove three silver 3mm screws using T5 screwdriver.

Disassembly - Before the screws, mine had 2 wires connected (black and white) connected to motherboard at the top left. remove those first and make note of which ones goes where. then take out the screws. thankfully these are longer than the previous t5 screws, so you won’t mix them up. I also had tape covering part of the LEDs and extending onto the black microchip to the top left.

Assembly - put the screws then the wires.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Use an iOpener or a heat gun to loosen up the adhesive securing the motherboard to the display assembly. Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the motherboard free of the display assembly. At this point, the bottom speaker is still attached to the motherboard. If you are only replacing the motherboard, refer to the bottom speaker guide to swap your existing speaker to the new motherboard.
  • Use an iOpener or a heat gun to loosen up the adhesive securing the motherboard to the display assembly.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the motherboard free of the display assembly.

  • At this point, the bottom speaker is still attached to the motherboard. If you are only replacing the motherboard, refer to the bottom speaker guide to swap your existing speaker to the new motherboard.

Disassembly - did NOT use a heating element. GET THE ZIF WIRES OUT OF THE WAY at this point. I started at the top middle with a pick and spudger then worked my around the right of the motherboard. gently lifted it out from right to left using spudger as needed to remove from battery.

Assembly - placement is critical here between all the wires. I started by putting the motherboard bottom in place then laying it down watching each wire was positioned correctly as I went.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Gently bend the various ribbon cables out of the way of the battery. Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen up the adhesive securing the battery to the display assembly. Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery from the display assembly.
  • Gently bend the various ribbon cables out of the way of the battery.

  • Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen up the adhesive securing the battery to the display assembly.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery from the display assembly.

Be careful lifting on the battery. The LCD isn't secured to the Digitizer/Glass so too much pressure can crack the LCD and you'll have to replace the display as well.

th3R0b0t - Reply

The battery is glued on the sides. There is no glue in the middle or on the top, so I think it's the best start on top and then try to lift sides.

klosek1995irl - Reply

thanx for help

Ben Hamouda - Reply

Done for HTC E8, with even help of youtube, but replacement part does not exactly fit the original connectors, but it works.

Stepp 11 to 13 are the most complicated, I have more cabels on the left bootm side than shown in the pictures/instructions.

Michael Rinker - Reply

Disassembly - this will be your most nerve racking moments of the guide. i did not use a heating element and was still able to get the battery out using spudgers, picks, razor, whatever it takes to wedge under it slowly. I found 1 spot of adhesive on the bottom center, top right, and the entire left side. I was very unlucky with so much tape on the ZIFs that my top left connectors could not fold back and the battery cover was peeling off. I worked from top middle, along right, then bottom, then up the left side until it was loose enough to pivot out from beneath the ZIFs.

Assembly - the old battery took most of the adhesive with it so placement was fairly simple. Make sure to take care of the battery cable on your way back through assembly.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

98 other people completed this guide.

Mitchell Keller

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27 Comments

thanks for the instructions. i dropped my m8 and the power button wasnt responding at all and volume down wasnt either . i dissassembled the phone ( maybe i shouldnt have used my swiss army blade, left dents in plastic) using this guide..and pushed all the connectors into firmly and it worked again . thanks a bunch

drocheit - Reply

Do we need to replace the adhesive when replacing the battery?

iarinaga - Reply

I did not replace the adhesive: there's enough left to keep everything secure

Karl Horton -

zoccola zoccola

giovanni antise - Reply

Hi, if there is a lot of tape is it necessary to replace it with new tape and copper shielding, and where can you get it please ?

Toby Murcott - Reply

Considering the guide and most people don't have the shielding it should be fine to not replace it. There was nothing that looked like it would short out and really was just there to cover the ribbon cables.

Jason Cobb - Reply

Thank you very much.

Benoit-Pierre DEMAINE - Reply

Any idea where I can order an actual genuine battery? Had some issues in the past with knockoffs and lemons...

Dron Zig - Reply

I ordered one from BinTek mobile and it seems to be working well.

KC Baltz -

During the reassembly, I noticed something that I'm not sure if it was an issue or not. One of the ribbon cables in the upper left appears to tuck under the blue board. You can see this in Step 12. When I reattached it, I noticed this piece of cable was loose and no longer tucked under and it didn't appear that it was supposed to connect to anything because I didn't see any contacts, but I couldn't figure out why it was there or if it had somehow broken loose. The phone is working OK including the volume buttons with the exception of the Light/Proximity Sensor and NOtification LED. Neither of those are working so I'm wondering if this ribbon was supposed to go to them.

KC Baltz -

Hey KC Baltz,

thanks so much for the reply...

I'll give them a shot.

Dron Zig -

After replacing battery it did not charging

Ahmed Fargaly - Reply

Make sure the battery cable is in correct place. The one i ordered didn't fit well! Had the same issue that the indication light was just blinking orange and the phone was not charging. So i reopened my phone and removed the metal screwpad and just first inserted the connector. Make sure it 'clicks' very well and that all 6 pins are in correct position, because this is what happend for me, only 4 where alined correctly. Afterwards i resticked the metal screwpad and put the screws back in and tadaaaa, new battery!

Stef Roelandt -

Thanks Stef. Had same blinking orange light and no charging issue, Getting the battery cable to click before screwing in the two screws was key. Thanks for comment.

James Bond -

I would have to rate this one "difficult" for a number of reasons. The multiple layers of adhesive requiring some pretty tough spudgering, the many tiny zif connectors, and several antenna cables (with an even greater number of antenna cable sockets!)

On my M8, the upper end of the long black antenna cable was underneath a black plastic shield, and unfortunately this cable popped off this socket, which took a fair amount of effort to put it back in place. I also had to remove two additional antenna cables on the left side near the top (one short white, another even shorter black) that weren't mentioned in this take-apart in order to remove the motherboard. Since there were several extra antenna cable sockets in this area (and elsewhere), I would recommend taking a picture of your M8 motherboard (at about step 10, above) to refer to during reassembly so you don't use the wrong antenna cable sockets when you reattach these.

Took me a good hour.

Peter Benson - Reply

I have just finished ruining my phone however I am not too sad as it is over three years old and I was planning on getting the one plus 5 anyway however I wanted to warn all first timers to not pinch the screen when trying to pry the phone open.

Sincerely,

My Dignity

Josh B - Reply

HTC

what the heck

why so tricky

Marne Houston - Reply

Replaced the battery in my HTC One M8 and after the phone was put back together, it was telling me the sim card was not present even though it was. I triple checked all the connections. I'm pretty certain i was careful and did not damage anything. Having said that, in an event that I did and didn't realize it, any suggestions at what parts might be responsible that I should try to replace first? Thanks for any assistance.

Dron Zig - Reply

Thanks for the instructions.

BUT………….it would be good if you’d mentioned the volume switches that need removing at step 11. My phone was taped up beyond believe and I thought the tape that was over the volume switches could also be removed as it had to come out to allow the battery to be removed. When i removed the taped the ribbon cable below tore in half, YAY!!!

For others info, at the top left of the battery there should be a black ribbon that attaches via tape to the left side of the phone to hold the volume switches in place. BE F##KING CAREFUL undoing the tape. Or you will end up needing a new phone like I now do…

kazafog - Reply

Here’s one for you.

I’ve done a large number of battery replacements and HTC is the leader as most people won’t try this.

I just did another one on the One M8 and the digitizer became unresponsive. Everything checked OK so I removed the new battery and re-installed the old one. The digitizer was fully functional. Back in goes the new one and the digitizer became unresponsive again.

I repeated the process 3 more times, alternating between the new battery (only new one I had on hand) and older batteries (the original one from the phone and tow others I had from previous replacements) and the same thing happend every time.

Why the heck would a battery have any effect on the digitizer?

Dana - Reply

Shot in the dark, but did you have the phone plugged into power? Maybe the new battery is shorted and the charging circuit is causing interference with the digitizer?

tsaavik -

Hi

I put new battery in, reconnected everything and built up the phone. Unfortunately new battery not charging, the red light blinks instead of light up continously. Doe it mean the battery is broken? It looks like new.

When put back an old battery everything is back normal, phone charging and working so I think I put it back correctly…

Mario Bros - Reply

Hi, I followed all steps very carefully. The Phone is giving solid led telling me its charging but when I turn the phone on there is nothing on the screen. I can hear the speakers working fine and if i hold volume down and power I can hear the screen shot sound but nothing on display. Please help!

Ronan - Reply

I need about 2.5 hours to complete the repair but did not find it particularly difficult. It was a lot of slow movements and double checking everything that caused the most pain. The really only nervous moments are getting the unit and shell separated, removing motherboard, removing battery. All with simple steps but be gentle above all else.

Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

Enjoyed reading your step by step comments which helped a lot, particularly not needing heat to get the glued sections apart!

Russell Lethbridge -

Signed up here to thank everyone for the guide and the incredibly useful comments. It’s worth reading through all the comments for each step *before* attempting this as a certain degree of tunnel-vision does creep in once you get to work.

Particular care needs to be taken removing the device from the metal cover (step 9) when too much force could lead to serious damage, as well as removing the battery as excessive force could damage the screen. My advice would be to go slowly - especially with any parts requiring separation of adhesive layers.

Russell Lethbridge - Reply

A little advice on the ribbon cables: the only one the gave me any issue was the one for the bottom speaker, next to the battery cable. be very, very careful on removing it !! i thought i was being careful until i was ready to close. That’s when I discovered the receptacle had become unattached from the motherboard…smh! And NO! it does not come close to the 35 minutes mentioned….more like 2.5-6 hrs

1jettek - Reply

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