Introduction

Here is a DualShock 4 controller that had a drift to both analog joysticks. Fairly straight forward replacement of the joysticks resolved the issue.

Parts

Image 1/1: Do not forcefully loosen the screws, as it will amount to permanent damage of the threads, making removal impossible.
  • Using the Phillips #00 Screwdriver, remove the four 6.0 mm screws securing the rear cover to the controller.

  • Do not forcefully loosen the screws, as it will amount to permanent damage of the threads, making removal impossible.

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Image 1/3: Pinch the left shoulder of the controller to introduce an opening. Image 2/3: Wedge a plastic opening tool into the opening and slide it up towards the joystick. Image 3/3: Pull down on the plier to crack open the casing.
  • Beginning with the left shoulder:

    • Pinch the left shoulder of the controller to introduce an opening.

    • Wedge a plastic opening tool into the opening and slide it up towards the joystick.

    • Pull down on the plier to crack open the casing.

  • Repeat these steps for the right shoulder.

Shoulders are where L1/L2/R1/R2 are, not the %#*@ handles. Confusing instructions.

foxhoundunit89 - Reply

Quick tip: Be VERY careful at this step not to dislodge the tiny spring attached to the L2/R2 buttons. While removing the cover, it's easy to pull off either L2/R2 button. Inadvertently pulling off either button will also remove the tiny spring as well. While not too difficult to reassemble, it's not obvious where the spring goes as the spring is almost completely hidden along the side of the button (on the inside).

I just successfully completed analog stick replacements for two controllers. I completed the first repair without any trouble but managed to dislodge (and almost lose) the spring on the second time around. Needless to say, I spent some time trying to figure out where the spring is supposed to go (no photos of this anywhere). By sheer luck, I figured it out on my own. :)

Good luck and take your time--especially the first time!

Michael Whang - Reply

couldn't have posted pics for me? :D

kimsballs -

Golden tip but I would add a thing or two.

Most probably both triggers R1&R2 will stay in lower half of the pad case with springs hanging there.

You must take them of their lower case sockets before assembly and fit them bellow L1&L2

When you feel click when fitting them and spring works like on normal assembled pad you're done.

If thats not the case do not try to assemble lower casing half as triggers will not work properly.

Simon -

if you lost the springs unfortunately, the triggers would still work but it is harder to get to the precise digital press. In other words you will have hard time to create a light press than a hard press.

meaningless -

Image 1/3: '''Share''' button Image 2/3: '''Options''' button Image 3/3: Split the plastic covers of the controller apart, taking note that they will still be attached by circuit board ribbons.
  • Wedge a plastic opening tool into the case-splittings and pull down to crack open the casing near the following buttons:

    • Share button

    • Options button

  • Split the plastic covers of the controller apart, taking note that they will still be attached by circuit board ribbons.

  • Three small pieces are often released from the framework. To prevent loss, maintain a controlled work field.

    • 2 Trigger Springs

    • 1 Grey Reset Button Extension

You can't just pull the casing halves apart. There is a plastic bar that is part of the casing and separates the L1 and R1 buttons from the L2 and R2 buttons. To get this loose, pull the casing outward perpendicular to the L and R buttons until you can slide the L2 and R2 buttons from behind the plastic bar.

dzturbd - Reply

SO yesterday replaced the thumb stick on my controller, and now the R2 button is stuck, know any way to remedy this?

ScootsMcgoots -

I know you put a warning, but I lost the grey reset button extension. Any idea where to get a replacement part?

miamiman77 - Reply

Hey, not even sure when you wrote this, but wanted to share my solution for this problem. I lost one of my reset button rubber pieces when I was doing a different repair, and found that a standard bamboo skewer is just about the perfect diameter to function as a replacement. Just cut it to the proper length and you should be able to get it in there and get your reset functionality back.

tcbrekke -

You don't really need it. A long paper clip will work fine.

Ron Smith - Reply

I've removed and changed all buttons all seemed ok but now the options and share button don't work, as in when I pressed them down there is no longer a click (bounce) I'm certain it's back in the correct place and I don't think they can be put the wrong way up, does anyone have any advice please :)

Rachel - Reply

My share button stopped 'clicking'. When I stripped the controller down I noticed a small copper coloured dimple on the motherboard was depressed instead of proud like the one for the options button. With bluetack I was able to pull it out but each time I tested it with my finger it clicked once and stayed depressed. I don't think there is a permanent solution to this as it's probably metal fatigue or similar so i put a tiny bit of blue tack overy the dimple so the plunger could push that bit further and hopefully pull it out each time. Seems to work as I reassemble the controller. Fingers crossed it holds out a while! I'd love to know if someone else had a different solution.

The5HD -

Image 1/3: After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side. Image 2/3: After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side. Image 3/3: After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side.
  • Detach the motherboard ribbon connecting the two sides of the controller by using your fingers.

  • After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side.

can you share the battery dimension?

luxusmirajane - Reply

Image 1/3: After removal of the plug from the motherboard, the battery can be lifted off of the controller. Image 2/3: Hasty removal of the battery plug could warp the plastic grips of the plug. Image 3/3: Hasty removal of the battery plug could warp the plastic grips of the plug.
  • Using the blunt forceps, remove the battery plug by gently rocking the forceps side-by-side to loosen the plug.

  • After removal of the plug from the motherboard, the battery can be lifted off of the controller.

  • Hasty removal of the battery plug could warp the plastic grips of the plug.

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Image 1/1: Do not forcefully loosen the screw, as it may amount to permanent damage of the threads, making removal impossible.
  • Remove the single 6.0 mm Phillips screw found below the battery retainer with the Phillips #00 Screwdriver.

  • Do not forcefully loosen the screw, as it may amount to permanent damage of the threads, making removal impossible.

Hello. I got a new graffiti controller (without hardware) and i wanted to switch my parts in the graffiti one. I have a PS4 Controller. Not a slim. But it seems like my motherboard screw is on the other side.. its on the right side of the motherboard and my graffiti is on the left.. what controller do i need to fix this?

TheTechnoMan - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Gently detach the touchpad ribbon connected to the motherboard using the blunt forceps. The touchpad ribbon is connected to the motherboard by a connector that flips to tighten and loosen. During reassembly, to reattach the ribbon, the plastic tray will need to be gently removed from the motherboard and the flip-lock flipped up.

Be very careful when you detach the touchpad ribbon. You could disconnect the other end that is inside the touchpad. In fact I would recommend you use a plastic spudger to release the clips on the sides of the battery holder, and then lift the latch to the ZIF socket of the touchpad. If your touchpad is not working upon reassembly, then the other end of the ribbon cable my have came loose in the touchpad. Use a plastic opening tool to remove the back of the touchpad, and lift the brown latch of the ZIF socket and reinsert.

Patrick - Reply

thanks for the advice

TMC -

currently doing this and have found the desoldering part the most difficult. i purchased a 40w solder on sale and attempted to remove with flux and wick to no avail. a buddy of mine tried with his station and no dice. at this point im thinking the contacts are lead? any advice?

swammieslippyslappy -

So the springs are annoying couldn't see were you talk about these as it's very fiddly to do the last step of putting it back together. Not just a reverse of taking it apart!

Frank Theplank - Reply

I concur. The springs are the worst part of this job. It would be nice if someone edited this to add some tricks for reassembly.

raysmalley -

You just have to put the r2/l2 buttons on the top side. There's a space around that white rubber thing where you can just snap them in. So that you have all the shoulder buttons together before putting the 2 parts back together.

Flow Von D -

Tilt your controller and trigger so the triggers are pointing to the ground it stops the spring popping out so much place spring inside the trigger and clip on thats how i do it anyway :) the touchpad is my problem area replaced my stick covers and now it just doesnt work at all :(

drwhatfunk -

Thank you for this recommendation. Made disassembly SO much smoother.

jeninholland02 - Reply

What I did for the Springs was place the spring on the button. Turned the button to where the spring is up on top then attached the button to the controller this helps keep the spring in place as you reattach it that is really the only trick that I found to it.

Matthew Luna - Reply

Image 1/2: Vibration motors are loosely attached to the motherboard assembly. Provide support at the two ends to ease the separation. Image 2/2: When removing the motherboard assembly, try not to tilt the front cover upside down as the buttons and their covers may fall out.
  • Carefully dislodge the motherboard assembly from the front cover.

    • Vibration motors are loosely attached to the motherboard assembly. Provide support at the two ends to ease the separation.

  • When removing the motherboard assembly, try not to tilt the front cover upside down as the buttons and their covers may fall out.

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Image 1/3: Motherboard Assembly Image 2/3: Front Cover Image 3/3: Rear Cover
  • Successful disassembly of the controller will result in the following three parts, respectively:

    • Motherboard Assembly

    • Front Cover

    • Rear Cover

One day my R2 trigger refused to work all in a sudden. The second day it spread to my square button. I dissembled the controller to this step and found some liquid between the green motherboard and the black plastic holding it. I should not have bought a second-hand especially for a launch version. Anyways I cleaned it up and it still didn't work. I then went to ebay and bought a new motherboard. Basically it is a piece of delicate plastic like PCB. It is held in place by 3 plastic columns and 3 gaps for sliding underneath both triggers and the touch pad. Sorry for no pictures but a careful removal of the old one would give you the best illustration of how to put the new one back. First remove the rubber pads of the triggers, which allows you to slide in the PCB. Then there are another 2 small plastic columns at the back of the gap near the touch pad. There is no need to detach the rotors. A pair of tweezers would help greatly. My controller now works perfectly like new and thanks to the author.

meaningless - Reply

Image 1/3: Use a desoldering wick and flux to melt and remove the solder Image 2/3: This may take a bit of practice since all the solder will have to be removed. It does help to pull a bit on the joystick while melting the solder and using the wick. Image 3/3: This may take a bit of practice since all the solder will have to be removed. It does help to pull a bit on the joystick while melting the solder and using the wick.
  • These are the solder connections that will need to be desoldered. Since the board is upside down, left will become right.

  • Use a desoldering wick and flux to melt and remove the solder

  • This may take a bit of practice since all the solder will have to be removed. It does help to pull a bit on the joystick while melting the solder and using the wick.

I'm new to solder/desoldering but i've been unable to get the solder to really melt or come loose enough to remove during this step. i have a solder remover/sucker but alas no luck.

any recommendations?

James Napoli - Reply

You need heat, solder wick (skip the solder sucker, those never work for me;-) and lots of flux. Place flux on your wick and tin the tip of your soldering iron with solder as well.

oldturkey03 - Reply

You need heat, solder wick (skip the solder sucker, those never work for me;-) and lots of flux. Place flux on your wick and tin the tip of your soldering iron with solder as well.

oldturkey03 - Reply

Image 1/3: Check that all the holes are cleared of old solder. Hypodermic needles as well as very small drill bits can be used to clear the holes. Image 2/3: Insert the new joystick into the circuit board. Make sure it is properly seated and that all the contacts line up with the holes in the circuit board. Image 3/3: Insert the new joystick into the circuit board. Make sure it is properly seated and that all the contacts line up with the holes in the circuit board.
  • Once all the contacts are desoldered, the old joystick can be removed.

  • Check that all the holes are cleared of old solder. Hypodermic needles as well as very small drill bits can be used to clear the holes.

  • Insert the new joystick into the circuit board. Make sure it is properly seated and that all the contacts line up with the holes in the circuit board.

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Image 1/3: Solder all the contacts to the board. Image 2/3: Here is the board after the repair. All that is left is to clean off the old flux with some isopropyl alcohol. Image 3/3: Here is the board after the repair. All that is left is to clean off the old flux with some isopropyl alcohol.
  • Double check to make sure the joystick is seated properly.

  • Solder all the contacts to the board.

  • Here is the board after the repair. All that is left is to clean off the old flux with some isopropyl alcohol.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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oldturkey03

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3 Comments

I just tried to remove both joystick and replaced them but unfortunately only one joystick works and that one that works it's stuck on and only moves in one direction.

Juan Hernandez - Reply

I've not been able to actually get the solder out, would love any suggestions or tips.

James Napoli - Reply

send me a couple of pictures on what your repair looks like thus far. Send them to my email. Click on my username and my email address is on my profile. Let's see what you got so far.

oldturkey03 -

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