AirPods Max Left Microphone Replacement

Unplug and remove all cables and accessories.

To help stabilize the ear cups and prevent scratching them, consider placing your AirPods Max on a soft, clean cloth.

Lift the left earpad (labeled L) straight up and remove it.

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or a small, straightened paperclip into the hole on the top edge of the right ear cup (labeled L).

Push down with your tool and pull the headband connector straight out of its socket.

Set the left ear cup down on a soft, clean cloth to prevent scratches and help stabilize the cup during your repair.

Use a P5 pentalobe screwdriver to turn (not remove) the four speaker housing screws to the unlocked position:

Turn the top left and bottom right screws counterclockwise.

Turn the top right and bottom left screws clockwise.

Option 1: Apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (>90%) in the gap around the perimeter of the speaker housing. Wait one minute to allow the alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Option 2: Heat the speaker housing with an iOpener or hair dryer. Focus the heat around the perimeter, applying small amounts for short periods of time.

Insert the flat side of your opening tool into the gap between the right side of the speaker housing and the lip of the ear cup (opposite the L marking).

Pry up the speaker housing until you can grip it with your fingers, applying constant pressure to allow the adhesive to separate.

Lift the speaker housing out of the ear cup to fully separate the remaining adhesive.

Flip the housing over the side of the cup and prop it up so you can access the cable.

Remove the four screws securing the cable cover:

One 7.5 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screw

Three 1.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screws

Use tweezers to slightly lift the cover and slide it towards the center of the ear cup to remove it.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker housing press connector.

Remove the speaker housing.

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove three speaker driver screws:

Two 6.0 mm‑long screws

One 6.0 mm‑long screw that's slightly thicker than the other two

Remove the 5.1 mm‑long standoff screw using one of the two methods below:

Option 1: Stick a small flathead screwdriver into one of the four notches on top of the screw and use it to slowly turn the screw.

Option 2: Use a Torq-Set 6 screwdriver to remove the screw, applying constant downward force to avoid damaging the screw.

Lift the right edge of the speaker and remove it, being careful not to touch the diaphragm.

Remove the two Bluetooth board connector cover screws:

One 7.5 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screw

One 1.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screw

Use tweezers to slightly lift the cover and slide it towards the center of the ear cup to remove it.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the press connector from under the cover you just removed.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the press connector on the other end of the board.

Slide one arm of your angled tweezers under the metal neck of the coaxial connector (next to the one from the previous step) and lift straight up to disconnect it.

Use the point of a spudger to gently pull the copper hinge cable (in plastic tubing) out of its clip.

Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the 3.0 mm‑long screw securing the Bluetooth board.

Stick the point of a spudger into the baord's screw hole near the hinge and pull the board towards the center of the ear cup.

Use your fingers to flip the board over the side so you can access the remaining connector.

Use the point of a spudger to press on alternating sides of the sliding connector tabs to "walk" it out of the socket.

Remove the Bluetooth board.

Use a spudger and your fingers to lift all ends of the microphone cable until it fully separates from the ground wire shell.

Remove the five screws securing the ground wire shell:

One 11.8 mm‑long Torx Plus 2IP screw

Two 10.6 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screws

Two 9.5 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screws going into the side of the ear cup

Stick the point of a spudger into one of the ground wire clips screw holes and pull the board towards the center of the ear cup.

Use your fingers to remove the ground wire shell.

Slide one arm of your angled tweezers under the side of the microphone opposite the ribbon cable.

Pry the microphone away from the ear cup and remove it.

Use tweezers to remove all the old microphone adhesive.

If you're replacing the adhesive, cut a thin piece the length of the distance between the two alignment pegs and apply it where the old adhesive was.

If your microphone has pre-installed adhesive, remove the liner.

Use tweezers to gently grip the microphone and put it into place.

Make sure the alignment pegs go through their cutouts and the cable is on the right side.

With the microphone properly aligned, use the flat end of a spudger to push the microphone into place.

Slide the ground wire shell into its recess, making sure it goes under the microphone cables.

Install the five screws securing the ground wire shell:

One 11.8 mm‑long Torx Plus 2IP screw

Two 9.5 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screws

Two 10.6 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screws going into the side of the ear cup

Push the microphone cables into place on the ground wire shell, making sure the alignment holes go over their pegs.

Use the point of a spudger to gently push the gold speaker contacts into its groove.

Use a spudger or your fingers to gently push the cable back into place on the ground wire shell.

Use the point of a spudger to push on alternating sides of the copper cable's connector until it slides fully into the socket on the underside of the power board.

Slide the Bluetooth board into its recess, making sure none of the cables that connect to it get trapped underneath.

Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to install the 3.0 mm‑long screw securing the Bluetooth board.

Use a spudger to gently push the copper hinge cable into its clip.

Use your finger to press down and connect the press connector on the board (nearest the hinge).

Use tweezers to hold the coaxial connector in place over its socket and gently press down with a spudger—the connector should "snap" into place.

Use a spudger or your finger to press down and reconnect the press connector next to the one you just connected.

Slide the tab on the connector cover into its slot and lay the cover down.

Install the two Bluetooth board connector cover screws:

One 7.5 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screw

One 1.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screw

Gently lay the speaker driver into place, making sure the side with gold connector pins lines up with the contacts in the shell.

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to install three speaker driver screws:

One 6.0 mm‑long screw that's slightly thicker than the other two

Two 6.0 mm‑long screws

Install the 5.1 mm‑long standoff screw using a small flathead or Torq-Set 6 screwdriver.

Use tweezers and scissors to remove any sections of bunched-up or overlapping adhesive that would prevent the housing from sitting perfectly flat.

Apply thin, double-sided adhesive where you removed the original, using short sections to help match the curve of the lip.

Hold the speaker housing up and use your finger to press down and reconnect its press connector.

Slide the tab on the connector cover into its slot and lay the cover down.

Install the four screws securing the cable cover:

One 7.5 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screw

Three 1.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screws

If you installed replacement adhesive, remove any liners to expose the adhesive.

Flip the speaker housing into the cup and press it into place around the perimeter.

Use a P5 pentalobe screwdriver to turn the four speaker housing screws to the locked position:

Turn the top left and bottom right screws clockwise.

Turn the top right and bottom left screws counterclockwise.

Hold the ear cup steady with one hand, and use your free hand to firmly push the headband connector into its slot, twisting it slightly—it should click into place.

Place the earpad into its cup—it should "snap" into place.