Rep: 1
2
I have replaced every part of the heating system on this Maytag Commercial that I have. Drum spins, blower blows, no heat. New thermal cutoff kit, new element, new cycling thermostat. I did leave the old fuse because I figure dryer wouldn't be running at all without it. What am I doing wrong. I've now sank $150 into a dryer I got for free. I really can't afford much more in it.
Is this a good question?
Rep: 1
2
Update, It's was the timer. Do yourself a favor. If you don't have a multi meter. Just buy one before you try and fix your dryer. Way easier than replacing parts and hoping.
Was this answer helpful?
Rep: 520.8k
11
398
1.5k
There are 2 thermostats i.e. cycling (aka operating) thermostat and a hi limit thermostat and also a thermal cutoff fuse in the heater circuit.
You mentioned a new thermal cutoff kit and a new cycling thermostat so perhaps the problem is with the hi limit thermostat (part # WP3977767 - see part #15 in the image below for location)
If you've already checked the hi limit thermostat and it is OK here's the wiring diagram for the dryer that may help.
(click on image)
Was this answer helpful?
Apologies, should've mentioned that the cutoff kit included a new hi limit thermostat which I did install. I have purchased a cheaper multimeter like I should've from the start and now believe the timer is the culprit. There is no resistance between the A and B terminals or the A and C terminals on the timer. In addition, since I acquired this dryer it has had problems with the cycles (not starting in the the right place, continuing past the finish mark, and overall poor performance). This I mistakenly attributed to the cycling thermostat, and therefore replaced that first. It is possible I have misread the multimeter, but at this point unless there is a faulty wire somewhere I cannot fathom what other problem there may be. One would think if it was a wiring problem it would show in other ways.
Also yes I did test my other new parts with the multimeter, and if I'm reading the device and the instructions for the dryer correctly, everything is working correctly except the timer. I will update when I'm done.
If A→B are always open circuit then the heater will never work.
B →C must be OK as the drive motor operates.
Unfortunately there are no separately available internal components for the timer as it comes as a complete assembly.
The original part number was W10185988 which has been superseded by part number W10894766
The part number should be on the timer case if you wish to verify.
The washer is comprised solely of Whirlpool parts hence the Whirlpool part numbers for the parts
@jayeff so you’re saying that assuming I’ve read my multi meter right. I would seem to have found at least one problem that being the timer is fried do to the heating circuit being open and therefore inoperable.
In normal operation there a through connection from A→B→C so that both the drive motor and the heater are operating.
When the correct temperature is reached the operating thermostat, operates to disconnect the heater only, the motor keeps on turning. The thermostat will release again when the temp drops down to the preset temp and the heater turns on again. It cycles on and off regulating the temp by turning the heater on and off.
As the timer steps through to the end there is usually a cool down time period which means that B→C stay connected but A→B are disconnected therefore no heater.
Mot probably the switch contact lifting cams in the timer are worn out or the contacts are burnt out. You also said that the timer wasn't behaving correctly so it could also mean that the motor cog wheels that turns the spindles on which the cams operate and release the various contacts may also be worn or even broken so it misses steps .
The timer is a clockwork mechanism run by an electric motor
@jayeff I somewhat follow that. What I was told to do was set the timer to between 70-50 minutes which should mean the heat would be on. If there was no resistance or open connection between the A and C or the A and B terminals that was supposed to indicate a problem. Either way, if it is not a timer problem I can only think it must be wiring related, but I have not seen any obvious signs of wiring damage, and I would’ve thought that if it was wiring related I would have intermittent heat not none at all. Unless a wire has been cut which again I saw no sign of.
Past 24 Hours: 0
Past 7 Days: 2
Past 30 Days: 45
All Time: 45
2 Comments
Hi @talkingdeadguy
What is the model number of the dryer?
by jayeff
Model Medc200xw1
by TalkingDeadGuy