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The Breville BCG600SIL, also called the Breville Dose Control Pro, is a coffee grinder produced by Breville. It is also available under the brand name "Sage".

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turning on power at the socket the small fuse on the circuit board po

I came across this post while researching the fix for my machine. When turning on power at the socket the small fuse on the circuit board pops. I’m yet to test and possibly replace the veristor (I think that’s what the blue thing is called!) if anyone could help I’d be grateful.

Update (02/19/24)

Here’s some images of the board there are no discernible burn out issues as far as my untrained eye can see even the popped fuse looks normal 🤷🏻

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@steviecripps I converted this from a comment to its own question. that way you most likely get a bit more help. you know we love pictures on here. Post some of your circuit board. Let's see what you got going on here. Adding images to an existing question

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Hey @jayeff Ok, so the resistor is a red herring. I discovered that my cheap multimeter doesn't measure low ohms so I believe that it was ok. I checked the power inputs and seemed fine. So I added a new fuse then tested without the motor and switch circuit attached. The fuse didn't pop! So I added the button circuitry back, it didn't pop. So I soldered the motor back online and again it didn't pop! I reassembled the unit and the power light appears to suggest there is power going in but when I hit the button to start grinding the motor doesn't spin up and the power / function light flashes. It could be a motor failure I guess or there is some sort of pressure switch which is on the top underneath the casing which I could look at also...

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I have the same problem with the T3.15A 250V fuse blowing when plugging in the machine. Replacing the MOV surge suppressor and disconnecting the switch circuit didn’t help. Did you manage to figure out if the motor was the problem on your unit?

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@ccc32322 The motor was my next focus, so I disconnected it from the board, replaced the T3.15A 250V fuse then powered up also disconnecting the switch connections and the fuse didn't blow. I then reattached the switch connector and the light came on. I then put the motor back in line and the fuse didn't blow the light came on - but the motor didn't function when the button was pushed. After the second push the light around the button would gently pulse but there was no action from the motor at all. Do let me know if you make any progress with your unit. At the moment it look like I'll be stripping mine for spares!

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Hi @steviecripps,

Did you mean the fuse (brown component with the arrow on the board, pointing towards it - best seen in 3rd image down that you posted above) blows when the machine is connected to the power supply?

If so did you replace it with a T3.15A 250V¹ fuse. (supplier example only)

If this isn't the fuse you meant, did you test the fuse mentioned above for continuity using a DMM's (digital multimeter) Ohmmeter function to see if it is OK?

If OK it would test 0.00 Ohms - a short circuit, if faulty it would test OL or infinite Ohms - an open circuit.

Fuses can blow without showing any signs that they have done so, especially those that are encapsulated in a solid case and not a glass see through tube where you can see the fuse wire itself.

¹ If the fuse is blown, ensure that any replacement fuse has exactly the same rating, especially the "T" rating. The "T" indicates that it is a timed (aka slow blow) fuse and not a standard fast acting fuse e.g. T3.15A 250V and not 3.15A 250V.

Slow blow fuses are used because they can withstand the high inrush currents that occur when power is first connected to the board. These currents which last for <8-10mS (milliseconds) can be several times the value of the normal maximum operating current that is used by the machine. If a standard fast acting fuse having the same voltage/current rating was used in its place it would blow immediately the power was connected, whereas the slow blow fuse would hold until the current subsided..

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Hi @jayeff Thank you for your advice. Yes I initially checked this and it had been the cause of the pop but there is a greater problem. I have received and fitted a new fuse and once again it popped since writing the message I have now discovered that one of the resistors doesn’t work, I checked with the multimeter and it has no resistance whatsoever so this is my next line of enquiry, which I will address with a new resistor. The resistor in question is R9. Perhaps she can verify the value? I believe it is 0.15 ohm. I’m not sure on the wattage though. 🙏

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@steviecripps

I make R9 as red, green, silver gold which is a 0.25 Ohm resistor but maybe not it could be brown instead, It's hard to say.

It appears to be a 2W size but even if it is only a 1W resistor it won't be a problem using a 2W instead, as the wattage is only the amount of power it can handle. P=I²R, P=E²/R or P=E x I All Ohms Law formulas to determine power used in a component P = Power in Watts I= Current in Amps, E = Volts R = Resistance in Ohms

If the resistor is also open circuit then it is unusual for it to be the cause of the fuse blowing. There has to be something else.

Start at the AC input to the board and with the power disconnected and the fuse connected, connect the Ohmmeter across both input leads and measure the resistance.

If it is very low - almost a short circuit, follow the tracks from the input to the first component (most probably the fuse) and then on to the next one and measure it. You may have to isolate 1 leg of each component that you come to to measure it to see if it is OK or not as measuring whilst it is in situ can lead to false reading as to whether it is the problem or not i.e. parallel paths around the component which lowers resistance value.

Board level repair without a schematic can take time

EDIT

Upon 2nd look I think that it is more brown than red so yes 0.15 +/- 5% Ohms would be correct.

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Stevie Cripps will be eternally grateful.
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