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my bosch refrigerator is 99% dead .no display light s or interior lights. no compressor working no fans working. if i press the water dispenser button i can hear the water valve opening
This is all I have
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Have you tried resetting the refrigerator by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator for 5 minutes and then reconnecting it again to see if it works?
Seems like there's a problem with the control board (part # 12029338) but this is only based on that the power is connected to it and then it controls the operation of the refrigerator.
Given the cost of the examples shown in the link above, hopefully I'm wrong.
I cannot find a free download online for the service manual, but found this supplier where it can be purchased from.
Might be worth it to find out what's wrong before deciding to order any parts etc.
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I tried resetting also changed all 3 boards on fridge and no difference
Post an image of the schematic in your question. Perhaps we can work out what to check.
Here's how on ifixit Adding images to an existing question
If you have a DMM (digital multimeter) check if there's 12V on pin 14 of the power control module. - see Item #4 IWS control on schematic
Be safety aware as there's lethal AC voltage on pin 3 and 11
What is the part number that is printed on the bottom left of the schematic?
I can only make out ---1179917 and not the first 3 digits although it may be ?001179917
First 3 digits are 800 for thr refrigerator series
Does the 14 on the inside board feed 12 volts to x10 on the control module or vice versa
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Note that from the Power Input module X12 and X16 go the the water valve board #4. Since everything else comes off bd #1, that is a big clue. If you replaced all the boards, then either there is something wrong with bd #1, #2, or #3, or there is an open circuit in one of the connecting cables.
Bd #2 is likely an AC to DC module. So, X200 & X300 will probably have DC voltages on them. X100 will have AC voltage on it. That will shut down everything except the water valve if it is bad. That would be my 1st suspect. See if you can measure any DC voltages on X301 or X201. If no, find out why, cable or bd #2. If no AC input, then bd #3. Because of the proximity of X10 and X301, I would guess that X301 is supplying 12VDC thru X10 to bd #4. So I would concentrate on X201 voltages.
I don't think there will be a single point failure on bd #1 that will cause your symptoms.
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2 Comments
be nice to have a schematic. Generally those are hiden somplace undet or behind most fridges
by bill
I have the schematic unfortunately it does not show the voltages in and out of the boards
by clive chotalal