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The original Xbox is Microsoft's first widely popular video gaming system. It has an easily identifiable black case with 'XBOX' emblazoned on the top and front. Repair is easy with common tools.

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that it can’t read the game or CD

So when I turn on my Xbox and try to play halo on it the first thing that comes up is that it can’t read the game or CD. Does any buddy know what to do when that comes on and how to fix that.

Update (02/13/2022)

So one other thing the game says is Xbox can’t recognize this disc.

Answer this question I have this problem too

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TL;DR answer:
Some of the DVD drives are known to have more issues than others -- for example, the early Thompson drives are FUBAR and are worse than the Samsung SDG-605 -006 drive, which is regarded to be worse than the -005 version. This is the main drive known to die, besides the -006 SDG-605 on “as-is DRE” consoles. The Samsung drives try and compete with Thompson on failure rate at times.


For the good but easy to find ones (with some issues), the Phillips are a good balancing act option. They still have issues, but not as good as the Hiatchi drive -- but also, less failure prone then Thompson or Samsung.
Hitatchi is the unicorn drive you want, but it will remind your wallet. Super rare, if you get it cheap shut up and pay. Even better if you get a used console and it comes with it; keep your mouth shut once you can tell.

Refer to this guide to replace the drive, and see which one you have

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Technical answer:

Bearing a guess based on the manufacture date (which will clue you in on the revision, which can be a starting point), the best way to confirm which one you have is the design of the tray.
Of all the drives you can buy, AVOID THE THOMPSON! Those are known to be unreliable, and also drop like flies! You can abandon them for a better one with the original Xbox.

In some cases, the drives can be saved by cleaning the lenses, but that's usually not a long-term solution; but it might buy you a little more time before you have no choice. That said, entire replacement drives aren't cheap so you'll either need a donor unit or wait until you can get one at a reasonable price, unless you can replace the laser and get the drive working — if you can find it, as each drive uses a different laser.

If you can’t find a drive, sometimes you can replace the bare laser if you can find a match. For Samsung, it’s easy but you cannot put a -005 laser in a -006, or vice versa. Phillps drives do not die regularly, so it’s not as common as you do not need them as often.
Thompson lasers are not worth your time — often trimpot fixed to their demise due to the notoriously bad failure rate alone, which often screws the next buyer over if a novice did it. DO NOT FIX THESE — DUMP THE DRIVE BACK ON EBAY FOR PARTS.


My repaired console had the SDG-605 which has trouble with CD-Rs (X00603-006), and I installed a Phillips drive (AD0365/21)* as my PCB is dead, and I couldn’t find anything else at the time. I scored the drive for $40**, so I got a once in a lifetime deal on the part. It took 14 months to do it, but I fixed it despite the cost because I got mine from someone who gave me a serious lead to where I am who passed. It took me a bit to do, but I’m glad I seen the repair through in hindsight.


*At the time, I got what I could as long as it wasn’t a -006 SDG-605, or a Thompson. I didn’t know my drive was so good at the time of purchase, and how well I did for $40.
**I did it in 2020.

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@oldturkey03 It's just frustrating that I provided the information needed to deal with this (having a repaired console and having to do the research) and having someone Cliff Notes my answer, basically.

Ok granted I posted this as a comment originally (with an expected moderation vote to switch it) so when the comment got switched to an answer, I could add what I needed to it but still that answer really got under my skin. It's not like it's a new strategy for me, especially when I know what to do so I can backtrack.

I could understand if I never amended the "comment", but that's it. It just felt insulting since I followed through as soon as I seen this was changed to an answer. I tried to avoid being too harsh, but that's not my strong point frankly.

The other thing that annoyed me so much is this happens all the time with bad answers. I take the time to properly research the issue, yet these bad answers always get more upvotes. I did it because I had enough of it, in addition to the cliff notes summary. Short, heavily summarized answers rarely help anyone if at all.

For the Thompson drive, the fix is to put it in the recycling bin and never look back once you put a more reliable drive in.

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@nick I get it and understand. You and I have ben around long enough to know how it goes with people. People just can't be bothered I guess

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@oldturkey03 Now I don't think it's fair to ever knock someone on things like knowing which drives to avoid, buy if the price is right, which one you want and the holy grail of the bunch -- unless you worked on one, you may not readily know. The summary for these is Thompson drives are bad (both revisions), Samsung SDG is usable but not the greatest (my 2nd untampered Xbox from the pair has an SDG drive that isn't dead but I'm not sure if it's -005 or -006), Phillips drives tend to be solid but not completely immune to failure. Hitatchis are bulletproof, but expensive with a very, very low failure rate.

I remember checking eBay every day until I found one that wasn't expensive or junk. I checked again for the OP. OG Xbox ones are all dead, and they're in expensive lots. Mostly SDG and Thompson there! Probably has all bad lasers knowing them.

The OP might be able to buy one (or a few, if needed) of them from a repair shop closing but I got mine on eBay. I grabbed it the moment I seen it and the price was beyond right - hence my warning to the OP to wait or be prepared to pay. I was lucky -- I could wait as I had one that worked. Not everyone has that luxury, or there's saves tied to that specific Xbox. It was as much as the pair, but it was worth it to me to see the repair through. Technically one was $20 and the other was $60, but the $60 one is special.

I put comment in commas because technically it was an answer placeholder.

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@oldturkey03 I did a TL;DR section here. Hopefully it splits the key info properly from the high level advanced options to repair the drives.

DRE=Disc Read Error. Should be obvious with the prior context. Also, anyone who buys a Thompson understands they're garbage, so I don't feel bad about saying to put it where it belongs -- eBay.

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Take it apart and clean the Lazer or replace the disk drive

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The complete lack of information makes this answer completely unhelpful.

I pulled back my downvote, but this answer provides no information on which drives are junk, which ones are easy to get with a moderate failure risk and the holy grail drive (Hitatchi) with few issues but is very expensive, or at the bare minimum HOW to replace the drive.

I mentioned the additional steps since I have one I fixed, but that's something I totally understand if someone isn't aware of.

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The optical disc reader

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Justin will be eternally grateful.
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