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Anker PowerCore III Elite 26k 87w not working!

Hi,

My power bank is not charging my devices. If I press the single button it has, no lights turn on. But, as soon as start charging the power bank, all lights turn on telling me that the power bank is fully charged. There are no screws in the power bank, and I am not sure how to take it apart to see if something is loose or to check if any component has a short! Does anyone know how to fix this or knows how to take it apart?

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got the same problem, did you solved yours?

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I have the same problem, did you solve yours?

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Not really. I hear a clicking sound in the inside when charging. But have not yet tried to open it up.

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Same here

There is a clicking sound. I did not open yet, as I do not know exactly what to do after that. I guess we are not the only ones. haven't been able to reach a person at Anker yet

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@Paz Tichover there might be a coil that is clicking but there really is not much in this power bank. All you have are 8 18650 cells and the battery controller board. We really would need to see the board to determine what may be clicking.

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Old topic, but hopefully this will help others. Based on a thread I found on reddit: (www<dot>reddit<dot>com/r/anker/comments/14bmqzz/anker_powercore_iii_elite_26k_87w_stopped_working/) I decided to take the plunge and crack mine open. I attempted heat, but from what I saw, the glue they used didn't respond to heat. Further, they took extra steps to make sure opening the case would be 'one-way'.

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Back

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Metal cover: The metal plate comes off, but that's where things went from 'not so bad' to 'no going back'

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The next layer down is a plastic top cover that has a bit of glue, but more importantly, it's a snap-clip fit with clips that face inward to the body, so trying to lever them out only puts more pressure onto the snap-clip fit.

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Even when I got one edge pried open, the snap-clips make a tight enough fit that they do not release from lateral pressure (i.e. me trying to pry the plastic off starting from one side working down the length of the pack.)

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Ultimately I had to use a small chisel and walk the chisel down the length, popping each snap-clip, some of which didn't let go without breaking entirely.

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Once everything was open, I tested with a multimeter, the negative terminal from the battery lead to the pcb had released. The eight spot-welds had most likely broken free due to vibration over time. I'm fairly certain the positive lead will release at some point too.

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I intend to solder both pads (and print a new case), but I'm out of kap tape at the moment and I'm still waiting for my new FixHub soldering Iron (looking at you iFixit). I'm worried my old Hakko doesn't have the the finesse (or I don't) to pull this off without cooking something close.

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Thank you for your effort. I hate that my power bank died on me so fast. I bought this particular one for my Steam Deck but when I needed it, it was toast. So I guess mine goes into recycling.

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@l0stchild I got mine for the exact same reason; extra power for a Steam Deck! Thankfully mine worked well for more than ~1.5 years, but still, for the price, and how ugly the case was to open just to find a broken connection. I'm not sure I'll get another Anker.

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@ibb_ Let me know what you got instead then. I am fed up with devices I can not open without breaking them.

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From my previous experience in power banks, they're not easy to open and opening will often destroy the casing of the power bank(it's probably better just to buy a new power bank) .

I would push a spudger or similar into the gap between the top and bottom casing of the power bank, then try to push a pick in the gap to separate the 2 parts.

Keep in mind that puncturing Lithium ion batteries can cause toxic fumes, fire, and other physical harm.

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I have the same problem, i am trying o open it without success

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Jos will be eternally grateful.
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