Unveiled at the 2000 North American International Auto Show on January 10, 2000, the redesigned 2001 Dodge Caravan and 2001 Chrysler Town & Country were released for sale in August 2000.

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My 2002 Dodge Caravan will not start or turn over

2002 Dodge Cravan quit running at hwy speed. All instrument lights are working. No service engine light is on. When you turn the key, instrument lights go out and there is a faint click at the fusebox. the battery is charged and the terminals are clean. Wiring at fuse box and computer checked. Fusebox and computer replaced with working ones. Any ideas?

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You replaced the fusebox and the computer due to this error?

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I've owned a Dodge Caravan and Chrysler Cirrus...both problems I had with these vehicles were the same problems. Transmissions and Emissions. Best bet is to check those out first. I will never buy the brand again. Oh ...I also drove the brand Chrysler and Dodge for a delivery service and his vehicles kept breaking down all over the state as well. Try Chevrolet or Ford.

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I'd like to intervene, if that's ok? First, where was the computer located? Behind the front bumper cover or under the hood close to the radiator support? The starter relay could be swapped out with the a/c compressor relay. Did you try that? The click could be the asd relay or the starter relay. They would both need to be working correctly to run, but the starter relay must work for it to turn over. Check that. They are labeled, it should be an easy test.

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I would like to add but not sure if this will help everyone. I got the caravan working that would not start and security system seemed to be the issue. I found a video on youtube where the wires in the harness melt together. they were not melted together but were starting to and I pulled them apart. where the wires are. if you look behind the igniton coil. you can follow the wire harness and you will see wire cover that looks more like a Velcro cover not tape. I pulled the Velcro cover off and pulled the wires apart and the car started and I think I will need to tape the wires separate to insure that they wont get In contact again. I hope this helps. for what the dealer wants to charge and never find this. don't waste your money unless they can tell you what this problem is. why they don't have a bulletin about these wires melting together is beyond me. they need to recall this issue and just replace the cover or tape them a different way

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I forgot about this post sorry I didn't update sooner. the problem was a bad wire under the battery tray. took awhile for another shop to find the wire and then took less then 5 bucks to fix the connections from what the owner told me. wish I could investigate it more but the lady is driving it all the time now. seems there was some recalls on these minivans for wiring issues. so call the dealers to find out if yours has been recalled.

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Instrument lights go out and a click at the fusebox would lead me to belive that it is either a relay or a starter issue.

Performing the starter relay test.

(3) Perform a visual inspection of the starter/starter solenoid for corrosion, loose connections or faulty wiring.

(4) Locate and remove the starter relay from the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to the PDC label for relay identification and location.

(5) Connect a remote starter switch or a jumper wire between the remote battery positive post and terminal 87 of the starter relay connector.

(a) If engine cranks, starter/starter solenoid is good. Go to the Starter Relay Test.

(b) If engine does not crank or solenoid chatters, check wiring and connectors from starter relay to starter solenoid and from the battery positive terminal to starter post for loose or corroded connections.

Particularly at starter terminals.

(c) Repeat test. If engine still fails to crank properly, trouble is within starter or starter mounted solenoid, and replace starter. Inspect the ring gear teeth.

STARTER RELAY

WARNING: CHECK TO ENSURE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN THE PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION WITH THE PARKING BRAKE APPLIED. THIS MAY RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH.

RELAY TEST

The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine compartment. Refer to the PDC label for relay identification and location.

Remove the starter relay from the PDC as described in this group to perform the following tests:

(1) A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.

(2) Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet)

should be 75 ±5 ohms. If OK, go to Step

3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.

(3) Connect a battery B+ lead to terminals 85 and a ground lead to terminal 86 to energize the relay. The relay should click. Also test for continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, refer to Relay Circuit Test procedure. If not OK, replace the faulty relay"

Hope this gets you started. You can download the service manual from here Good Luck.

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Mine is doing the same and it's not the starter or the relay. Checked both more than once. We also checked the ignition switch. Mine just didn't crank after I got in it from the store. Any ideas? I babysit and really need my van. Thanks

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My wifes' 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan did this but it was a "bad battery" who would have guessed.....

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Try putting it in neutral it started and in park after that

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okay people i hope this will help some. i have a 2002 caravan. and when i tried to start the car the alarm would sound and the lights on the dash blinked like crazy and the ads relay clicked no stop. so after looking in a few places for help. i found a youtube video with the same problem the wires behind the ignition module has a spot that is not easy to get to and the wires will start to melt together. look for the wire covered in what looks like a fabric. it has velcro if that helps. pull it off and pull the wires apart. i also used dielectric grease for the connector. i also took the ignition module out of the way to make it easier and use the grease on the connector also. its running now and no help from the dealer. if the wires melted together i would have taped the wires before covering them back up.

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I can't tell if this is just a troll. There is no "ignition module", no ads relay, and as-built there's no Velcro anywhere in the car. I can guess ads relay means Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay. I can guess it refers to something with vinyl coated cloth tape, but every wire bundle encased in a split loom sheath has black vinyl coated cloth tape at both ends and every Wye (Y). For the module, the OP could mean the ignition switch, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) the ignition coil(s), or almost any other component. I can understand that the OP had a near short circuit dragging voltage down in some circuit, then a relay opens cutting power and then with higher voltage the relay closes again. There are 3 relays that could chatter during start, and no reason to expect the post has identified the one that was chattering. Almost every circuit in the vehicle could cause these symptoms. The most common cause of the symptom cited is actually corrosion at the ground point under the battery tray.

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Peter, If battery/connections, fuses and relays all look good, check connections at starter and where negative cable attaches to engine/bracket for being loose/corroded. If all looks good there, probably a bad starter.

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I did all of that. And replaced starter, it was fine for a day and now it won't start again...?

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If it started after you put the new starter in, recheck battery condition and all connections, it is possible you got a faulty new starter. You may want a good Tech. to have a look, diagnose and estimate repair.

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Might be a bad ground or bad wire under the battery tray

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Simple test for bad ground: Use half a set of jumper cables between the neg on the battery and the engine block. If it starts you have a poor ground between batter (neg) and the block. This problem is not limited to dodge.

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Check the body ground under the battery tray and the wires leading to it. While the battery and tray are out of the way it's an opportune time to remove the adjacent fuse and relay box and check the connectors underneath it for corrosion. It's a less common cause for the problem, but the hard work to get to it is already done,

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Mine I have disconnected battery I connected back car won't even click I replaced starter really still same car will start by by pass from postive to Solenoid car start ok so if you want qauik repair pull wire from solenoid conecter and wire from postive Batrey and put push. Switch to start but you must turn key to start position or car won't start ok so this how you doit till you find repair ok so turn key on to start postion and push bottom car will start ok hope help you guys this to get you go till you find what's problem ok

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The key switch controls supplying positive battery voltage at the relay box start relay coil terminal 86. If that wasn't happening the PCM wouldn't let the car run. The PCM controls grounding the other end of the start relay coil at terminal 85. The PCM grounds that pin if;

1) transmission is in Park or Neutral, this switch does depend on correct shift cable adjustment and does wear out. A failing or maladjusted switch may operate correctly in Neutral.

2) engine RPM is at or near zero. If both crankshaft and camshaft sensors have failed the PCM can't determine engine RPM

3) the wireless key security has had less than 6 attempts to start without a Valid response from the key's wireless security. <6 starts and runs for 3 seconds.

The start relay gets 12v at pin 30 and closes to pin 87 wired to the "solenoid", mounted on the starter assembly. The ground for the solenoid' coil includes wires and a ground point under the battery tray.

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My 2002 dodge ram 1500 4.7 will click when ya turn key to start all lights go out until you release key we have checked and cleaned all connections and replaced starter and battery and still a click. I am stranded in FL and really need to go home to Ga. Any ideas what I need to do to get it cranked

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Try putting it neutral to start it let it run for a few seconds then put it in park and it will start again

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My 2004 dodge grand caravan wouldn't turn over. Replaced the battery, and still wouldn't start. It ended up being the solenoid wire to the starter is loose. If I wiggle it, it will start. Looking to get a replacement wire.

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Need help. My 1999 dodge caravan has had overheating problems off and on. Had to put fans on toggle switch. Yesterday it overheated and just died. Now it's trying to crank but won't. Code p1491 and p0420 came up. Please help

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You will want to have someone repair the wiring. As a part, that wire is part of a harness that has the high power wiring and the price of the part and the labor to install it is enough to pay to replace several dozen wires.

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Not sure what to do:

I have a 2001 dodge caravan, died almost a year ago for not having any has in it, Before I bought it.

After I was showed that it ran, the next day it was having a hard time turning over, it was connecting but not turning over.

A few weeks later my dad sprayed some started fluid on it and it caught on fire. Now it will no longer connect, we've put in 6 new batteries and nothing, no lights, no connection. I don't know what to do at this point. It's been over 7months sense I've seen it start

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If "caught on fire" isn't literal, the problem is probably that the wireless door opener on the key is also part of the security system. it will let you start 6 times and shut off after 3 seconds, and then won't let you try to start it anymore. Replace the lithium batteries in the wireless door opener and make sure it locks and unlocks doors,

The part with 6 batteries, no lights... suggests you're using junkyard batteries. All 6 may have been dead. Use a known good battery or at least test that 12v power goes around while jumped from a running vehicle.

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Peter panabaker will be eternally grateful.
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