First generation of Apple iPad with 3G capabilities. Model Number A1337. Available with 16, 32, or 64 GB of storage. Repairs are straightforward and do not require heat.

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broken digitizer retaining flaps

Help Please. I just finished replacing the LCD on my husbands ipad (i broke it a few months ago) everything looks good except the digitizing retaining flap fell off. Is there a way around using these flaps. I managed to hold it in place and the ipad worked but it fell off again and now the screen does not respond to touch. I have never fixed a electronic device before so I was feeling pretty good about myself until the flap problem--ugh!! Any suggestions??

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I am in a similar situation and would love to hear anybody's solution.

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If its the lock down style you will need to slide all the gold pins through the locking bar to re attach it. It its the push connector style. U can use a price of plastic. (Thin plastic like on a box for a toy. Also sum scotch tape to make sure it dident come out

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If it was broken in the "unlock / open" position, insert a small piece of the broken LCD (that was repaired) flex cable under the flex cable you wish to connect. Clamp it down with polyimide tape and it should stay in place.

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This is a fantastic solution. A really good idea. Works a treat. Thanks a bunch and well done! Clint.

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For all those who have broken that retaining flap, I had the same problem. It can be resolved by using a thin Mylar strip, cut to the dimensions of digitize r connector, then slide it underneath the connector. It will hold the cable.

collins_joseph@hotmail.com

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Did the Mylar tape work?

I just replaced my ipad screen and broke both of the digitizer clips in the process. I tried putting the digitizer in with out the clips and the ipad powers on but the touch screen does not work. I am trying to find the mylar tape (looks like I need to buy it online).

== Update ==

I got the screen working. With the help of Joe who suggested I find something thin enough to insert between the digitizer ribbon and the connector. This is what i did:

1) Insert the new digitizer connector.

2) Cut the old digitizer off of my old ipad screen and cut it to size.

3) Insert the old digitizer connector on top of the new one which locked and held it into place (I heard a click on both sides).

4) Cover with black electrical tape.

Powered it on and it worked great! Thanks Joe and thanks I Fixit!!

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John and Joe,yall are life savers. My iPad was broken for the last year, and after replacing two digitizers i had given up hope. I had a feeling it was that broken tab the whole time but had no idea how to replace it. Your method worked wonderfully. Only one note, you kind of need to do things in reverse order (hooking the digitizer ribbon cable up first rather than last) to be able to have enough room to apply the force you need to get the second connector in on top of the first one.

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I must say that Joe's solution is a very brilliant solution that could save me a lot of work time and money.

But I didn't understand something, the mylar or kapton tape should be taped (cuted to size) on the digitizer end ribbon cable and then sliding the ribbon to the connector or the tape are supposed to perform as a spacer that should be inserted AFTER the digitizer cable has slide in?

If it's the other case then why using mylar or kapton tape at all? all we need is some kind of material like thin plastic that will hold with pressure the digitizer cable down to the conductive pins.

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Hi davduv!

It's meant to be a spacer, basically wedging the contacts on the ribbon cable down onto the board below.

There are two main reasons IMO for using Mylar or Kapton tape vs plastic.

1, Mylar and Kapton tape are both appropriate for use in electronics due to their insulating and temperature-stable properties. You wouldn't have that necessarily if you used something like cellophane like I did while waiting for my tape to arrive. The static off it (I suspect) caused the flakiest false-responses on my digitizer.

2. It's a real challenge to wedge a thin piece of plastic in at the same time as the cable unless they're adhered together due to the tiny amount of clearance there is to the sides and above the cable. This space restriction also requires the very thinnest of materials, and you'll have a hard time finding tape thinner than Mylar or Kapton.

My above offer still remains... If you have a hard time finding either of these tapes, I can mail you some off the roll I bought. :)

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Hi Therese Stirling,

Thank you for the clarification, I understand now how easy will it be with a Kapton tape.

Thank you for your generous offer but I already took some some kapton from my workplace, I'll use this tape and come back to tell you if it work.

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for those want to do the repair yourself you can buy a new PFC connectors

here

Block Image

with the desoldering alloy to help you remove the old connector off the board clean

video will be up on and youtube soon

Update

the youtube video of the repair soldering and changing the FPC connector is up,

it cost 110$ to get it replace and mail back

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you guys are fantastic! this worked great for me. I just used a small section of that aggravating plastic that covers everything we buy now. It may have been a little thinner. it was packaging material for a case of compact fluorescents.

at any rate, I inserted the cable, then the spacer on top of that. made the connection perfectly! problem solved.

I need someone to think out of the box on another problem I have. While disassembling an iphone 4(verizon) I broke a small connector that seemed to be barely holding on. You can see that guy here iPhone 4 Verizon Upper Antenna Replacement on step 25. does anyone have a workaround? I would be really impressed.

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I'm not sure I follow your question Andy. What exactly did you break, the connector or did you rip the cable?

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In response to your inquiry, mylar isnot a tape it is a plastic material that I had on hand and used, it is non conductive and is available in so many places and you probably have it in your house. Have you ever bought a pack of batteries or any other product with that annoying plastic -see through material that you had to tear to get at the product? Just make sure that it is not to thick, but thick enough for the flex cable and that plastic can fit within the connector, This slides on top of the flex cable if the contacts are facing down once you trim the plastic to the flex cable dimensions. The electrical tape holds this in place!

Joe Collins

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It is possible to get that black plastic part back in, takes a bit of doing and getting it the right way around, did it this afternoon and all working fine now.

Picture link of offending part

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How did you get it back on?

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I've used a cheap chinese iphone 4 screen protector which was laying around gattering dust :)

Just cut it in shape and because it's thin and does not deform it's great !

You can either put it in first and then the flatcable or otherway around. Sits very firmly

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I tried everything to solve this issue with my ipad 3, broken flaps of power button fpc, tried spacer too but nothing worked , finally i took a spare logic board, which was dead and of no use, took out a clip [flap]from that, gently pulled back both corners pin of fpc, and after position this unbroken clip , pulled back gently both the pin and finally all working now

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How do you open it in the first place without breaking it?

The instructions on the dismantle guide are vague.

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are you talking about opening ipad? see, am a repairer i have opened ipad 100s of time you should go to youtube watch some videos , may be that can help youthanks

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I'm only talking about the black tabs holding the digitizer and LCD ribbons in place. I looked up other videos and tear downs but they didn't describe it so that I knew what I was supposed to do.

I found the answer elsewhere. Thanks though.

In case you googled it, like I did and found this page;

you use the flat part of a spudger and pry up gently on the little black strip from the opposite side of the ribbon cable so that it pivots up on a hinge on both ends and when done, it will be perpendicular to the ribbon cable.

If you go slow it won't break.

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I make use of a couple businesses that can replace that connector, both the Digitizer connector cable, or the LCD connector cable. We repair enough of them, that occasionally we come across a tab that just can't take another open/close without failing. Typical cost to properly REPLACE the connector with new one is around $30+/-. If a jimmy rig works fine, no worries. You can also find FPC Digitizer Replacement Service on eBay... you ship them your iPad, they make the repair, they ship it back. Just pay attention to their feedback, they might have 1000+ positive feedbacks because they used to sell mops... now they "he/She" is repairing iPads... make sure they have a nice established positive feedback pattern for THIS repair.

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i need help i broke off some of those metal teeth that are under the plastic retaining clips, how can i fix that ?

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Awdamn,you are in deep trouble, u need to change full FPC, and that u can do, only if you are so good in soldering techniquegood luck

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I broke both of the FPC =( is it really hard to weld a new FPC???

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Fantastic idea. I cut a piece of the mylar on the back of the old, original battery. Thank you !!

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kathleen will be eternally grateful.
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