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The Chevrolet Cavalier is a compact automobile produced from 1982 to 2005 by General Motors.

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stalls after engine heats to operating temp

car starts and runs fine until engine heats up to operating tempature, then it stalls, it will restart but keeps stalling until engine cools down. What can cause this?

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I'm driving this 2K 4Runner. Drives lovely. Went from low idling to the idle getting too low to keep the battery charged to the above mentioned issue.

Idles fine until warm. Once warm idles a bit and decreases to 0 RPM.

Will start right back up, because the battery somehow has enough cranking amps. Idle for a few seconds and die. But if I keep enough pressure on the throttle it will rev without issue.

After some research I got a lineup:

throttle body is dirty

need a new battery

fuel filter

fuel pump

It died a few minutes ago. Checked the battery and moisture on top. I took cover off and one cell was low.

Put water in it but I still have the issue of the motor stalling when warm. Its intermittent as well. The engine stalling out completely tonight but tomorrow it may run just fine or idle just under 650 RPM.

Thats specific detail.

Issue killed an alternator. Currently brand new OEM alternator from Toyota installed.

The alternator didnt solve low idle issue or the stalling.

Thanks

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To 4runner Jajuan russel- “Drives lovely. Went from low idling to the idle getting too low to keep the battery charged to the above mentioned issue” this shouldn’t effect your drivability, if your battery is still able to turn over your engine then it shouldn’t have a problem keeping it going with or without the alternator operating. You need to run live data with scan tool and screen shot your Relative And Absolute throttle position sensors value, O2 sensors volts for bank 1 sensor 1 & (if available)bank 2 sensor 1, your MAF rate and/or Barometric pressure, and long term and short term fuel trim. This information will tell us alot. Also check for a fault code. This should leave a bread crumb trail so your not replacing parts you dont need

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Unfortunately this is TYPICALLY the symptoms of compression loss. After too much wear (IE if you have defects, overheated the car, neglected oil changes, bad combustion over time etc etc etc) the piston rings and cylinders will not mate and seal properly causing low compression and blow-by. While cold, the ring-cylinder mate is tight, keeping the combustion gasses from blowing by and allowing the engine to run. As the engine heats up the ring-cylinder mate becomes looser so that the engine will run smoother and easier...but if there is too much wear the combustion gases will begin to blow by the ring-cylinder surfaces and will cause each stroke to lose power. Enough blow-by will eventually mean that each stroke is not powerful enough to maintain engine rotation.

To determine if it is bad rings/cylinders, go to a mechanic or go buy a compression tester (maybe Auto-Zone or other auto stores rent them?). Test the compression of each cylinder per the tool instructions and note the compression of each cylinder. From what I could find the BARE minimum compression for engines in general is 90 psi...but it may be more or less for your engine. You also typically want cylinders to be within about 10-15psi of each other.

IF it is indeed bad compression, you will have to buy new piston rings and have your cylinders re-honed...or just do a straight up engine swap (which would likely be MUCH easier)...but let us know how this test goes first!

PS- internet searches seem to turn up compression problems for later model Cavaliers

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I just wanted to say that your comment reminded me of a Japanese scooter I had. The valve cover had a bad gasket seal, and after I put JB Weld gasket maker on it. There scooter would idle just fine.

Thank you.

I'm going to check the valve cover seal on my 4runner. Also, tonight, my 4runner attempted to put me down. I made it home by driving with both feet. I had to keep pressure to throttle pedal.

When I got home, I checked the throttle pedal. It had play in it.

The throttle body doesn't have an idle screw that I can find with my own eyes lol.

I'm thinking the throttle body is dirty, the throttle cable is stretched, AND the valve cover is in need of a new gasket seal.

Thanks to everyone on this form.

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The problem that happens alot is with crank position sensors. Once they heat up to operating temperature they stop work intermittently like a faulty oil pressure sensor does.(only when the sensor is failing). You will have to let your engine cool off before your crank position sensor will begin to work again. This is often misdiagnosed as ignition problems but when this sensor fails, pcm cant time spark ignition so there will be no spark.

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I'm experiencing a similar problem it's a 2001 mazda 323 bj sp20 2.0 dohc, it runs perfectly fine when it is cold has great power and as soon as it warms up to operating temperature it dramatically loses power to the point it crawls so slow it would be faster to walk, I have changed all the coils leads and spark plugs for brand new ones, checked for vacuum leaks and anything that looks out of the ordinary I have spent just over $1000 on it and now I dont know what to do any help would be much appreciated.

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Check your crank shafts position sensor clean it make sure it's not damaged and the check to see how your car doing. Just change it out if you wanna be sure but they do fail. Any codes popping up for misfire? Fuel pump could also be failing

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Thai, Will the CPS failing cause a CEL? Im having the issue stated above and no CEL

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I'll comment on the CPS. It won't make your vehicle "randomly" stall. What it will do is make it run like the motor has a combination of bad gasoline, bad air intake, and bad compression. All at once.

A bad CPS will make you think the motor is about to actually explode out of the engine bay and make the tires fall off, and the whole world is about to end.

The motor will sound like it is being forced to operate despite it's lack of desire to turn.

You distinguish the faulty sensors based on the motors performance. O2 sensors lead you to think of valves or fuel system.

Timing leads you timing and ignition.

MAF leads you to intake and exhaust, and maybe fuel system.

You can distinguish what's wrong after you have enough problems. You just have to remember what was checked to fix the problem.

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If you have a honda or a low quality brand, they wont have protection from the CPS failing so in certain vehicles, the engine will keep running as he describes above. It will attempt to keep running using the remaining sensors available. But if you have a Mercedes, Chrysler, Lincoln, ect ect, The PCM will shut engine operations down to preserve the engine.

For Compression loss, you’ll should have better compression as the engine heats up since metal expands with heat. You’d notice if this was the issue when you first start it up.

Vacuum issues will be evident in your fuel trim. If you have a vacuum leak, the engine will adjust its fuel mixture and send a code to your OBD2 for Rich Conditions. (Assuming your MAF/MAP And O2 sensors are operating properly) It will be running rough... Your fuel trim will be high.

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My car would randomly quit some days run all day so would not start it was the main relay witch caused the computer to burn a spot in it from the bad connection

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I had a Honda Legend (1991 Acura Legend). That had the exact identical problem and solution. The main box costed $101 USD from the Acura dealership. I happily paid just to enjoy that smooth ride on the back roads with the windows down and the sunroof back.

I foolishly sold it to help a stranger. I hope he is treating Sabrina well...

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I agree with the crank angle sensor diagnoses. The odds are a crank sensor or an electrical connector or a wiring problem from the sensor to the ecm. You might get a random misfire code or a crank angle code. It shouldn’t be very expensive once you're sure of the problem. Good luck!

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Renault Megan 1600 a 2009 model. Starts well in the morning but once it gets warm it jerks and slows until itn stops and stalls if you briefly switch off the engine for 3 seconds and restart it it starts well and moves for 3 to 5km and stalls again. It will do so all the way till you get home. If going up the gradient it stops more often but as you glide down the slope it can move longer before it stalls.

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It's a bad 02 sensor the fuel is closed until it heats up and then the fuel system goes into open loop and that causes the fuel pressure to drop and the car or truck starts to cut out , start skipping and die

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Hi how to fix this problem?I am currently experiencing it with my renault scenic 1

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It does sound like a fuel problem. Could be the fuel pressure regulator or vacuum valve controlling it is bad, this would allow vapor lock. So check on that. Also pull your plugs and see what they look like at the face. there is a possibility that your ignition coil is failing as well. the hotter the engine or surrounding temperature are the weaker the spark get on a bad coil. Just a start and let us know how you are progressing. Good Luck

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Nope ...I have a Honda CRV works great for 5 minutes until the engine gets up to temperature and then all the sudden shuts off as though the fuel is shut off but what's really happening is the spark is stopped and it's because my coil shorts out after it heats up it's an ignition coil..I checked the coil it has a burn mark on the back and I'm almost 100% sure that's what happened as a coil heats up the circuit is broken and stop sending spark to the spark plugs

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Someone once told me he had same problems and he changed his coil packs and it ran perfect after that so i think your right

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Its actually sounds like a very dirty throttle body, when the engine is cold and cooler, the idle air controller is allowing more air past the closed throttle body butterfly valve (throttle plate) so it runs good, but when fully warmed up the idle will suffer when this bypass valve is no longer bypassing extra air into the engine past the throttle body butterfly valve. Use a good safe cleaner and wipe the throttle body all inside as much as you can and open the throttle and clean as deep as you can and then while running a bit faster than idle spray cleaner into the other holes you may see where air will bypass the throttle plate. I believe this will cure your problem of stalling at idle.

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What you left here could be my problem.

2k 4runner limited.

Drives lovely. Just idles poorly.

Your solution actually fixed a scooter I had for a while.

I'm definitely going to check the throttle body.

How hard is it to clean the throttle body???

Thank you for posting here.

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I have the same problem on my 88 prelude. Engine check light ON. Mechanic says it’s my idle air control valve. Took it off, cleaned it, looks like it moves. Put it back on and engine purred at operating temp. Then it started doing it again. One thing that concerned me was the coolant line to/from the iacv. Didn’t get any coolant spilling out when I removed hoses from iacv. Will look at iacv to see if there’s a blockage in the coolant section which may be allowing iacv to get too hot. Any suggestions are welcome!

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Pretty sure its a 02 sensor or coil packs trust me i changed everything on this 2000 cadillac deville dhs even ran out of money until monday then its gonna be 02 sensor and coil packs i got a built in code reader on my car and the code thats poppn up is P0300 and P0440 which is evap systems and misfire and that could be 02 sensor egr valve or the catalytic converter it says i had to go to autozone to get the p0440 code to pop up our dashboard wont give us to much info so i took it to autozone check your fuel filter first then try 02 sensors then fuel pump then coil packs which for my car are fukn 300 each ridiculous

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Coil packs for 2000 cadillac deville dhs

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My car is Z20LET engine, just started to stall when hot then will not start until left maybe an hour. After an hour it starts fine and drives fine but when upto temp it will stall!!!.

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