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The wi-fi only version of Apple's iPad Air, model number A1474. Available in Space Gray or Silver, it packs the custom A7 processor and ships in 16, 32, 64, and 128 GB configurations.

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Home Button Connector Repair

Just an avid DIY guy here......I've been obsessed with watching microsoldering videos to learn how to do some more heavy repair stuff. Clearly, I should have practiced a LOT more before attempting my first repair at replacing the home button connector on an iPad Air board......needless to say I failed with not enough heat and ripped off some pads.

Need some advice from any pros out there in the microsoldering community.

Judging from the schematics, I see that the home button connector uses only3 pads:

Pad #1: GPIO_BTN_HOME_CONN_L

Pad #3: PMU_GPIO_MB_HALL2_IRO_FILT

Pad #13 PP3V0_S2R_HALL_FILT

It looks like my number 3 pad might still hold a connection, and my power line (13) is still in tact.

So now I think what I need to do is:

Solder a new connector back in place and make sure 3 and 13 have a solid connection.

Then, run a jumber from Pad #1 to the testing point on the back side of the board as indicated in the schematics.

Am I on track here? I’ve also read about using a knife to slice into the line underneath to try and establish a connection. Should I try that? Does anyone have experience with something like this? And what kind of jumper wire should I use?

Any help would be appreciated.

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Why bother running a jumper all the way to the backside of the board when you can connect it to the trace right next to the connector or worse case, R6311 which is where it ultimately ends up going? Just follow the traces directly on the logic board to see where GPIO_BTN_HOME_CONN_L goes (the publicly available schematic doesn't show the proper components layout.)

The normal technique here is to gently scrape away the solder mask on the trace leading up to the missing pad. You can then connect a small loop of jumper wire to simulate a pad for the connector. The wire has to be very small, preferably something like 42 AWG. Smaller wire, such as 50 AWG (0.02mm) is needed for LSD or finer work.

Here is an example:

First scrape away the mask on the trace next to the missing pad

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Then apply a loop of jumper wire, soldered onto the trace

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Ideally, you should then apply some UV-Curable solder mask to keep the tiny jumper in place when you reflow the connector

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And here is the finished product

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1 Comment:

THANK YOU! I will attempt soon and post back.

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briannishii will be eternally grateful.
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