testing faulty DC-IN board

How do I go about testing a DC-In board after I've opened my Mac and reached the (presumably) faulty device?

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

Is this a good question?

Score 0

Comments:

What are you seeing that leads you to believe the DC-in board is faulty?

by

False alert, but thanks all the same for your answer, Josh. What happened was this. A USB cable was left to soak overnight(!) by my daughter in a cup of nice stong Ceylon Tea while the Mac was running and the cable plugged in.

Her Mac refused to even turn on after she'd given it to me to take a look at . After a few tries, I removed the battery and let the Mac run from AC power only. Worked fine. Put the battery back in. No problem either. I still would be interested to know how all this can be accounted for.

Best regards,

Patrick

by

Add a comment

2 Answers

Chosen Solution

I don't know how to test it afterwards, but my iBook showed several symptoms that indicated a faulty DC-IN board. Replacing this part fixed all of the issues I had with my iBook when it was plugged in, so if your iBook is showing any of these signs, you might be satisfied that your DC-IN board is indeed the issue.

1. Battery does not charge while computer is plugged in.

1a. When computer is plugged in and turned on, if battery is less than full, power status icon in menu bar shows as plugged-in (not charging)

2. Inconsistent light at end of adapter - the light primarily glowed yellow, sometimes orange and sometimes green. Under normal circumstances, this light glows orange when charging the battery, and green when battery is fully charged (or if computer is running with no battery installed)

3. If you remove the battery, and run the iBook exclusively from AC power, it randomly shuts off (not shut down)

At this point, I took the leap and ordered a new DC-IN board. I did a visual comparison once I got the new part, and the wires on the old board looked older and crispier. The inside of the port on the old board was also much looser than that of the new board. Others who've replaced their DC-IN boards have said that they could see that their contacts were fried.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0

Comments:

False alert, but thanks all the same for your answer, Jtsantos7.

by

Add a comment

Hello!

I had exactly the issues described by Jtsantos7 several months ago.

On top of it, there would be sometimes a rather scary buzzing noise.

The diagnostic was rather easy: when I dismantled the DC-In Board, I just had a look at the welds (a magnifying glass will help), some were cracked and one was even burnt (board toasted to a crisp). I re-soldered (more or less... hard to do on burnt circuit) everything the time to receive the spare from here (I really needed the laptop). Good timing, as the weld on the "fried" part started to fail again just when I got the new DC-IN board.

Good luck with your fix

Was this answer helpful?

Score 0

Comments:

False alert, but thanks all the same for your answer, mauriespierre.

by

Add a comment

Add your answer

Patrick will be eternally grateful.
View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 0

Past 7 Days: 0

Past 30 Days: 1

All Time: 1,170