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A washer series by Maytag with a low rate of customer satisfaction and a high rate of failure. These washers have the model numbers MVWB300xxx or MVWX300xxx.

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I get the F51 error code

I get the F51 error code on my Maytag bravos every time I run it. I can't fix it myself. Can anyone advise whether it's worth it to pay a repairman (unit is exactly six years old) or long term more cost effective to buy a new one at this point?

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Try this - go underneath the washer and there is a nut in the center. That was loose on mine and took a repairman less than a min to fix and that did the trick.

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Unbelievable. Same issue with f51- was the center bolt underneath. Entire statue assembly hanging by a thread. Tightened and and it cleared. Also , prior to this there was a knocking sound during agitation- was sold by Maytag this was normal. Noise is gone since tightening down the bolt- possibly an early warning sign of the loose assembly.

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Another victim of the loose nut. Of course, I was the last nut that tightened the bolt when I changed the bearings. Thanks for the information. Mine was a 1/4 inch Allen wrench(hex key)

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Same thing here. Recently there was a knocking sound during agitation. I have a maytag bravo xl and its is 5 years old. It finally stop working with a F51 error code. After reading this thread, I decided to tilt the washing machine and tighten the nut in the center with an hex key. Once done, I tried it. The F51 code is gone and the knocking noise is gone too. It now works quietly. Many thanks.

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Same problem. Glad I stumbled upon this. It worked. Thanks.

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@carriez , F51 flashes when there is a motor rotor position sensor (RPS) failure or lower harness problem. Perform the diagnostics first. Not as complicated as it sounds. Let us know if you have trouble with any of the steps.

TEST #3 Motor Circuit

This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor; and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves.

NOTE: Drain water from tub.

1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Spin test under Manual: Motor.

ACTIVATION OF MANUAL DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE

1. Carefully read and perform steps 1 and 2 under Activation of Automatic Diagnostic Test Mode, and press the same button once during the 5 second display time of the 88.

NOTE: If the button is not pressed within 5 seconds, the Automatic test will start

(after saved fault codes).

6-6

2. If done successfully, a single beep occurs and the two-digit display shows the control ID# for 3 seconds, then displays 00 and the Add A Garment indicator LED

flashes.

Manual: Motor Rotor Position Sensor (RPS): Uses Wash, Rinse and Spin indicators to detect the three hall sensors. Console may have up to two of these indicators on at one time when the basket is not moving. Open door and rotate basket by hand. The Wash, Rinse and Spin status indicators should toggle on and off according to direction the basket is being turned. If none of these indicators are on go to

TEST #3.

Spin: To activate Spin, door must be closed with door lock enabled. See Manual: Door Lid Lock.

NOTE: If door is not closed, an invalid button press beep will occur when performing next step.

Block Image

NOTE: Indicators above button scroll from top to bottom.

• If motor fails to spin, go to TEST #3.

Agitate: Water must cover the wash plate (or agitator vanes) to ensure the basket is floating prior to agitation. Enabling agitation without enough water may cause a fault condition to occur.

Block Image

NOTE: Indicators above button scroll from top to bottom.

• If motor fails to agitate, go to TEST #3.

The following steps assumes that one of these steps failed.

2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.

3. Check to see if basket will turn freely. If basket turns freely, go to step 4. If basket does not turn freely, determine what is causing the mechanical friction or lock up.

4. Remove the console to access the machine/motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies.

5. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control.

If visual checks pass, go to step 6.

If visual checks fail, reconnect P5 and P10 and repeat step 1.

6. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control.

With an ohmmeter, verify resistance values as shown below:

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7. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the drive motor area. See Figure 1 on page 6-13. Remove the motor bolt, then the motor cover to access the motor connections. See Figure 2 on page 6-13.

8. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and rotor position sensor board.

If visual check passes, go to step 9.

If visual check fails, reconnect the electrical connections, reassemble stator and motor cover and repeat step 1.

9. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P10 machine/motor control connector and the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) connector. See Figures 2 and 4, pages 6-13 and 6-16.

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Block Image

If there is continuity, check the motor windings. If the windings are open, replace the drive motor.

If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.

10. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P5 machine/motor control connector and the drive motor connector. If there is continuity, replace the drive motor.

If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.

11. The drive motor and lower harness are good. Replace the motor RPS board and perform the Diagnostics test in step 1 to verify repair.

12. If the Diagnostics motor test in step 1 failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:

Unplug the washer or disconnect power.

Replace the machine/motor control assembly.

Perform the Motor Diagnostics in step 1 to verify repair.

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1 Comment:

Oldturkey when you say check the resistance value between the connector pins, do u mean on the cable connector or the board connector? Also when you say “1-5” are you saying place one needle on connector in pin 1 & the other needle in pin 5?

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Well my fix was the bottom 1/4 hex. But be careful using rolls of toilet paper to support the washer got me in trouble , there not round any more. imagine fixing a washer on father's day in ten minutes saving 100 dollars only to hear the toilet paper won't fit on the rolls. :)

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If you can easily rotate your tub with no rubbing, then I highly suggest the next thing you check is the loose nut on the bottom of the machine. Drain the water and lean the tub about 45 degrees, enough so you can see the bottom of the machine. In the center is a nut (It requies an Allen Wrench I think 1/4"). If it is loose, that is likely your issue. A few rotation to tighten and your set.

I was so happy that was my issue. I thought, no way the issue could be that simple. I assumed I needed a new machine. But 30 seconds to tighten it and my machine worked perfectly again. Thanks to all of you who suggested this fix.

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I had the loose bolt underneath. I tightened it and the f51 code cleared.

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This fix saved me! Huge!

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I had the f51 error code, took the whole washer apart looking for problems. Replaced the sensor and it worked for a while and now it’s throwing the code again. At a loss.

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Mine worked for a little while, then the code came up again too. So, I decided it was time for a new washing machine. Out with the old & in with the new. No use prolonging the inevitable and getting stuck with a machine full of soaking wet clothes. Good luck!

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Carrie Kelley will be eternally grateful.
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