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Which board do I need to replace to restore picture and sound?

I am having issues with Panasonic TH-46PZ80U. It was working fine and then one day all I got is a red solid light (no blinking). I suspect it was a power surge issue even though I did have a surge protector.

What works:

-Power goes on and off with the remote as well as with the power button

-Red light remains solid with no blinking but it does "reset/click" every few minutes and remains solid red

-Panel emits a faint light when powered on and subdues

-Fans turn on

No picture, sound or other responses to remote or controls

Tried so far:

Turning on and off, holding down the power button, removing back and checking for loose connection or bulging capacitors or any other obvious signs of damage (none noticeable, but I am totally inexperienced)

I love this TV and would like to get it going again. Any help would be appreciated.

Update (08/19/2016)

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I have 3 fans and a big and smaller p board. Which should I replace? Thanks.

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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Randy the clicking are your AC relays. Start off by following the flowchart for a no power unit. Let us know what you find. Yes it's very involved but you got to start somewhere since this is a pretty complicated issue without errorcodes coming from the LED:

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If you need help identifying the boards, or test points, post some images of the layout of the boards on your TV, as well as the boards itself. For that use this guide.

Update (08/18/2016)

This is what you are looking for :-) Below Fan 2 and 3 The one with C,D,E etc. connector.

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9 Comments:

Hi oldturkey, thanks for responding to this so promptly. I apologize for the delay on my part. the flowchart is awesome info. I am inexperienced with testing with a multimeter and had trouble with connecting the probes to pin 11 of p25. For the benefit of those who are also lost - A little searching and I found out I was doing it incorrectly. I watched a video that showed wrapping a thin stiff wire to the end of the probe and pressing into the connector (not the bare pin with the connector removed as I initially did) as well as securing the black ground probe end into the bare metal of the chassis to leave a hand free for switching the power button and I got a reading of 3.2 which according to the chart indicates replacing the p board.

Should I continue with any other testing or do you think I can buy the p board with some confidence that nothing else got damaged during a power surge?

Thanks so much for your kindness and expertise and willingness to share it freely.

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Would I need to replace P main or P AC or both?

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Randy looks like the P main needs replacement

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Am I correct in presuming that the P board is the board I was testing with the P25 pin? Does it go by any other name? I am having trouble finding a part labelled as p board that matches the appearance for that model. Thanks.

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Randy that is it.

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Randy will be eternally grateful.
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