AC adapter not working but batteries work

My Altec Lansing IMT810 boombox only powers on with batteries plugging it in with the stock cord, multiple other cords and other outlets does not work. I've seen posts of people having to bezel off the back and re-wires. I wanted to know if there are any other options to get this running on wall power besides buying tons of D batteries.

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Hi,

This link may be of interest to you regarding the problem of the adapter plug in power socket in the unit. The posts by 'buyer123' (start at the 2nd post on page, read 3rd and 4th as well, click on read more to get the full detail) explains the problem and how to possibly overcome it.

http://www.amazon.com/iMT800-Power-Probl...

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I tried the hack a while ago: cut open around power supply, get in there with epoxy and then we still had to use a shim of wood to make the connection (plus, bf used to much epoxy :( so I can't try to fix the fix)!.

The fix lasted for a short time and now it's just impossible to get the power to stay on. So, it's batteries. I'd be happy if I could just figure out how to use a lantern battery rather than 8DD batteries. I have rechargeable but will need to be replaced soon and that's something I"d like to skip.

Even though we have stereos, devices, etc I really like this boombox. Was so peeved off that it was faulty from the get go (replaced one under warranty and then the company dissolved so no help from any company).

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here is the fix mentioned above. Not my work, I found it online after some searching

https://imgur.com/a/qDaw4

I have been looking for a disassembly guide, as I don't want to cut through the case. If I can manage, I will try to create a guide if it gets to that point

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I repaired my IMT810 (same fix as IMT8010) a while back. While my memory isn’t what it used to be, but here’s what I remember. I did not cut the unit open. I did it the more difficult way, but the unit bears no scars:

Take off four of the rubber feet on the bottom. There will be four screws in the bottom.

Open the battery compartment. One of the panels, (can’t remember if it’s to the right or left of the battery compartment) is easily removable. You WON’T need much force to remove it. If you’re using too much force, you’re trying to remove the wrong panel. You’ll find screws underneath the panel you’ve now removed. Remove them. Remove all the hex-head screws from the front of the unit. On many units they’re purely ornamental. On this unit they’re functional and hold the box together. IMPORTANT: They are not all the same length. SUGGESTION: “Remember” their sizes by taping them to a sheet of paper over a drawing of the front of the box. You should now be able to remove the entire front panel with speakers. Remove from the bottom side first as you’ll need to carefully unplug two (if I remember correctly) connectors that feed the display and buttons at the top. Hinge the assembly away from the bottom so the top stays close to the unit. With speakers/cover off, pull out the dampening material w/the bag it’s in. You’ll now see a circuit board covering the input from the ac adapter. This is where it gets tricky. Pry off the panels on the top of the unit on either side of the carrying handle. A plethora of screws will be visible. Some may NOT be that visible. Remove them all. Now it even gets harder. You’ll need to remove the outer rear/side casing so you can access both the input from the ac adapter and/or the main board for removal. This “outer” casing is a casing that covers an inner casing which houses the active woofer and passive radiator. Both active and passive will remain in position when you remove the outer casing. In the unit you’ll find four large plastic tabs that must be released for this to happen. You’ll likely need to pry the covering speaker panels (outer casing) from the front of the unit to help release the outer casing for removal. Use your head and you’ll figure this out. Be patient w/out using too much unnecessary force and it will eventually come. Once the outer casing is off you’re home free and will have full access to the ac adapter input on the rear of the unit. Hope this helps. I may do this again as I have a second unit. If I do, I’ll photograph the sequence of events.

Joe Mayone Jr

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Nick will be eternally grateful.
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