Updated version of the original iPad 2, released in March of 2012 with a smaller die processor and updated internal construction. Repair will require the use of heat and careful prying.

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Digitizer cable from step 30 in front panel disassembly

The digitizer cable is not attached to anything. It appears to be broken off but I can't tell from what or where. From the ribbon connector end, the cable makes an 'L' and then becomes fatter with a number of bends with what appear to be perforations. If its not broken, where or how does it connect?

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From one side it is attached to the digitizer/ front glass.

The other side / the tip of the cable is flat, wide, and split into 2 ends that goes into the digitizer connectors on the logic board.

If you're still not sure about what's happening with your own repair, post a picture.

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Its not unheard of for during dis-assembly of an ipad digi the digi flex cable is severed. Its not supposed to ever come off the digitizer and it shouldn't be folded anywhere (wavy is ok if that makes sense) and definately doesn't have perforations. It does have a dotted line to show you how far to plug it into the board connector, maybe that's what you're seeing?

It connects to the board with two about 3/4 inch flat connectors that sit side by side then are secured with a black plastic tab. The connector the way it should be has the little gold contacts on the back (about 40?) and plain black on the top.

If you are replacing the digitizer (it sounds like you are by now) its not important if the old flex cable is damaged.

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I didn't realize the digitizer cable was part of the front panel assembly and the broken piece was the old one. The new front panel assembly has a perfectly good digitizer cable. I admit to being more than a little confused. Now, I am relieved that I have apparently successfully gotten the front panel assembly off. Putting the new one on can't possibly be as hard as taking the old one off.

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It is easier, but a delicate process nonetheless. Be careful to bend the digitizer cable in the same manner as the original was, and make sure it doesn't get pinched between the glass and the aluminum frame. Otherwise the glass panel will pop out and the cable will be creased. A creased cable means the whole glass panel will be defective, soon showing dead lines/areas with no touch and/or crazy/ghost touch (touch seems to work on its own).

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