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Second generation of Wi-Fi iPad, released on March 11, 2011. Model number A1395. Repair is difficult and will require heat.

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Identifying which parts of iPad damaged (black screen but mounts ok)?

So my iPad 2 had a run in with a water bottle in my bag a couple of days ago and while I didn't touch it (couldn't think how to turn it off without potentially doing more damage) there was a gut-wrenching moment where the screen flashed on and then off again (without any input).

Two days in the boiler cupboard with a lot of rice and the machine is dry and responds to being plugged in (makes the connection noise and mounts properly) but the display doesn't power up. The home and power buttons work (I can take a screen shot and it makes the camera noise) but I can't work out whether the digitiser works or not (I have tried swiping roughly where I remember the unlock slider to be and it doesn't make the unlock sound).

I'm trying to decide whether it's worth attempting a repair but am trying to work out what bits I'm likely to need to replace before I start burning cash on a potentially lost cause.

Does a blank screen and a suspicion of no touch input suggest an LCD + digitiser replacement, a logic-board replacement, both, or is it really impossible to tell? Is it possible to have partially borked the logic board but it still be able to boot, backup, restore etc. (all of these things still work).

If anyone has any ideas for other diagnostic tests I might be able to perform to localise the problem that would be great!

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Try holding the iPad up to a bright light to see if its only the Backlight that's gone on the LCD. You will likely have to replace the LCD either way but it will help give you an idea if the Logic Board and Digitizer are OK. Its also a good idea to replace the battery while you have it apart as well.

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Thanks for the advice. Bright light reveals that display is working and digitiser turns out to be fine too (now I can find the unlock slider)! Looks like it is just the backlight that isn't functioning.

Presuming the backlight is built into the LCD I suppose the next question is whether I try and replace the backlight components on the motherboard first (cheap but stretching my fairly rusty soldering skills) or try replacing the LCD (easier but much more expensive). From a few scattered comments elsewhere I'm thinking it might well be the 4r7 coil (which seems to be particularly moisture sensitive) which cost almost nothing but I think I might admit defeat and send it in to a repair shop that has posted lots of youtube videos doing these repairs.

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John will be eternally grateful.
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