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Why won't my Ionic Breeze Air Purifier turn on?

Sharper Image model# SI830. Pushing power button does nothing. Tried taking it apart but cannon see any obvious thing to do, no blown fuse or anything I can identify by taking bottom cover off.

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My Quadra made a zapping sound as I returned the the fins after the last time I cleaned it. Now, it won't turn on, no lights or anything.

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Geez! I know my Ionic Breeze was purchased prior to 2008 but I just opened the box in March 2015. It worked perfectly. I cleaned it within the prescribed 2 weeks and again worked perfectly. Now, three weeks and yellow light so I go to clean it again but this time unit will not power on. Such little use, what a terrible product for so much money! I am not handy to investigate and fix the problem. I did read that Sharper Image went bankrupt and any product prior to 2008 they cannot help with. I feel robbed. I have original receipt, box and CD I kept everything new in box in storage unit. I was forced to relocate a few times so I am just now able to use this.

What can I do?

Valerie Jackson

jhjmd317@gmail.com

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P.S. It is the Sharper Image Quadra Ionic Breeze model SI857

Valerie Jackson

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There is an internal fuse but it is soldered in. If the light was red and you keep pushing the start button repeatedly it does blow. If you are handy it can be replaced but it is difficult and you have to completely tear the unit down almost to change it. I swapped out the solder type fuse for a replaceable one. Tricky and I will post more info should anyone ask. Trust me, if you have no experience doing this don't attempt!

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Thanks Blu-Ray 51. But what do we have to lose by trying? We have to learn somewhere, sometime. thx,

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14 Answers

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If your Ionic Breeze shows the red light that indicates it needs cleaning, you might have to take the entire unit apart to get it to work. I did that and found the two brass contacts inside the bottom of the unit were extremely dirty. Cleaned those and put everything back together and it works fine. It was a tedious job but it got the unit working. Here's a link that could help you restore your unit.

http://desiredcreations.com/Misc_IonicBr...

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THAT WAS AWESOME. Exactly the tutorial I needed. Thank you. :)

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My Ionic Breeze Quadro works for a few minutes, but then the red light, "Cleaning overdue," starts blinking, and the unit appears to stop working. (No hissing sounds) I'll look for the two brass contacts.

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I had the same problem and was able to get my Ionic Breeze working by removing the faulty on off switch.

When depressed, my switch cycles through the modes Hi, Med, Low, and Off. Two blue wires run from my swith to other circuitry also located in the top portion of the unit. I cut and stripped the wires and tested the switch expecting to get continuity each time the switch was pressed. Of course, nothing happened. I then touched the two blue wires running to the circuitry mentioned above and the unit immediately turned on.

Right now i just have the two blue wires, that require shorting, hanging on the outside of the unit and not touching. To change modes I just touch the wires for a moment, then let hang again. I'll either replace the switch with another Ionic Breeze switch, or will buy a switch with similar functionality and figure out a way to mount.

I just love the smell of my Ionic Breeze. Haters can bad mouth these units all they want but when I had bed bugs, they dissappeared when the unit was on and my health has never suffered while my unit(s) were operational.

Happy fixing!

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I tried the fixes described here (thank you for posting them) but that not what was wrong with mine. My symptoms were that the unit did nothing - acted completely dead, no lights of any kind and pushing the button did nothing at all. Lifeless.

Like others mentioned, I checked around for fuses but none in this model at least.

After I tried to see if the switch was bad as some others reported (mine tested fine), I noticed something else nearby. Underneath the switch there is a small partially- sort of semicircular circuit board (that is basically the bottom of the switch). Upon looking closely at mine, I noticed what looked like corrosion. You know, when copper turns bluish-green on pipes and such kind of corrosion? Well sure enough, one of the copper circuit traces on the back of this little circuit board had become corroded and had corroded all the way through. I checked it with a multimeter first - open circuit. Then carefully scraped away the crud with a pocket knife to confirm that the copper had been eaten away for whatever reason. Normally the copper traces are covered by some kind of greenish protective film on this and other circuit boards, but apparently it gave way. Had moisture leaked in around switch area? Unknown...

Once I found this, the fix was easy - I just soldered a little 1 inch piece of wire to bypass the corroded trace on the circuit board - this is low voltage, so most any wire will do. Just be careful to not overheat the board when soldering, and not touch any of the other traces on the circuit board. After this, viola - works perfectly once again. Hooray! Hope this is helpful to someone else like me to keep their breeze flowing a little longer...while I had it apart, cleaned thoroughly as others have suggested.

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Mine was not turning on anymore. Nothing like it was dead too. I slowly started to take it all apart. With very fine grit sand paper i cleaned the brass connector st the bottom. Also run the sandpaper easily over the wirers to clean them. Then i cleaned all the dirt & grim that had accumulated over the years using a small brush & qtips.

Put it back together and my works great again. Hope I only have to do that 5-7 years.

I love my ionic smell.

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Zony Jones, take a look on here and see if this looks like yours. I am not sure, but I would think that there is a fuse on the circuit board somewhere. This is a bit of a beast in getting any information, but I am certain we'll get it done. Post a few images once you have it apart :-). Hope this helps, good luck.

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I'm sorry, take a look on where? was there a link? ty for response btw...

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Sorry about that :) Here is the link. I also checked a slightly different model, and that one has a fuse on the board.

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One if the thin wires on my quadra snapped. Any ideas in how to repair or replace this wire?

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I too am looking for the wires that ionize the air. Mine broke after 17 + years of shaking the beads back and forth vigorously trying to remove that carbon tracing. The wire I found is actually one continuous wire that is clamped at the bottom and double spring loaded at the top. I believe it is steel not copper or tin that has to be a very fine AWG around 25 - 30 or so. Too thick and the slow blow fuse will pop (that too I found out). All in all I am looking for the wire and the fuse which only has the rating of 250 volts and a ridiculous rating of 1500 L which has left me scratching my head. Might mean 1500 ms time delay or probably 1500 mA or 1.5 A. I found the L means time delay. Yes 17 years is a long time of continuous use but it should go indefinitely so long as it's weakest link, the ionizing wires, can be replaced when they finally burn off.

Update (04/14/2018)

With further investigation if the fuse is blown the entire rectifier system is blown along with the large 220 u/F capacitor. The diodes are shorted out. Replacing the fuse is not enough to "rectify" the problem. I will keep you posted with my progress.

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It was a transistor and a diode that shorted that blows the fuse not the capacitor.

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I know this question is four years old but I had the same problem and hopefully someone who sees this post can try what I did and hopefully it fixes their ionic pro turbo. What I did was take the two screws under the wire cleaning handle then I popped off the cover that covers the screws to remove the panel to get to the control board. Its four screws. Two towards the back and two in towards front of cover. Once you remove the cover you will see a thin rectangular board with two screws and a small rectangular black box underneath it. Plug it in to the power outlet and carefully push down on the black box with a pen or pencil or anything other than metal. Push down in quick successions and press the power button. Keep doing that til you see the blue power light come on. I am not sure if its some type of spring operated contactor but it seems that over time it gets stuck and won't spring up enough to make contact inside. Put everything back together and be careful not to bump or drop the ionizer or you will have to open it and do the same thing again. It took me about ten mins to take apart and put back together. Well I hope this helps someone it fixed mine.

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Wow this was spot on with my problem...thanks for the reference. My screw down top interface that held down the two (2) plastic boxes were logged too tight and I just had to back them off a little to give the spring some play. Not exactly sure what this does, but was affected when I replaced the broken cables with guitar strings.

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I know this question is four years old but I had the same problem and hopefully someone who sees this post can try what I did and hopefully it fixes their ionic pro turbo. What I did was take the two screws under the wire cleaning handle then I popped off the cover that covers the screws to remove the panel to get to the control board. Its four screws. Two towards the back and two in towards front of cover. Once you remove the cover you will see a thin rectangular board with two screws and a small rectangular black box underneath it. Plug it in to the power outlet and carefully push down on the black box with a pen or pencil or anything other than metal. Push down in quick successions and press the power button. Keep doing that til you see the blue power light come on. I am not sure if its some type of spring operated contactor but it seems that over time it gets stuck and won't spring up enough to make contact inside. Put everything back together and be careful not to bump or drop the ionizer or you will have to open it and do the same thing again. It took me about ten mins to take apart and put back together. Well I hope this helps someone it fixed mine.

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Where's the fuse at

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Unit does not work. Ordered a new lamp from Amazon & it has been thoroughly cleaned but still does not do anything.

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Hi

Anyone search for the Air Breeze Ionic Purifier

I search alot and found http://buytopreview.com/air-breeze-ionic... sounds interesting

a cool product to purchase!!!

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well, I repaired the "Pro" model today. and yeah, getting it back together was a major challenge! I believe the entire issue was that waxy brown stuff that collects on the "Blades" also collects inside the unit. I found a lot of it in a hard to reach area, mostly on the white insulators where the wire connects on each end. Once cleaned, all set. Yes, they do buzz, I think that's normal, especially in a dirty area. I had mine for ten years and this was the first real cleaning I had to do. You can put all the screws back if you want, I didn't. it's working very good again, but I lost the red LED, or clean light. don't know what happened, but I had mine completely apart and didn't think I would be able to reassemble it. The swing out filter part was the most difficult to reassemble, but, it was easier than it looked. wish I took pict's. It's about an 8 out of ten on the skill level . Good luck.

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different model ozone guard S1857 need instruction

Professional series ionic breeze quadra

thanks

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Thanks for the many instructions and suggestions provided here. I wanted to provide my input since I was having pretty much the same problem as everyone else and finally able to fix with a couple key suggestions.

First, my unit is also the Ionic Breeze Pro model and it originally had to wires that ran the length top to bottom that had warn and broke. My process was as follows:

  • Disassembled my Ionic Breeze (many screws to keep tabs on and stored in a pill bottle)
  • Following someone else suggestion and purchased some .009 Electric Guitar Strings from Amazon to replace my broken and failed units. Amazon part used to replace the strings was: 20-Pack Economy Single Electric Guitar Strings Bulk .009 High E (Extra Light) 09 Gauge, Individual Packed - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QM...
    • Note - One of the beads (glass from what others have said) was lost from previous breakage and failure, so during reassembly I only restored the one bead unit that remained.
  • The guitar strings worked will after removing the usual hold cable pin holes on one end and then looping it through the M (bolt) and Spring interface located at the the top.
  • I then wrapped the other ends of the two (2) cables through the bottom inserts and tied a knot binding the two cables together like original that was one complete assembly. Length of cable was a guess based on the position and groves that hold the assembly in place. I got lucky and my estimate was close if not a little tight.

As referenced in another comment above,

S. Perez suggestion was spot on and my new string assembly and cleaning did not work at first.

Per his recommendation, I had to take apart the top cover and button control that holds the spring loaded hold down top interface and the two (2) plastic boxes. Mine was supper tight, and all I did was back off the screws just a tad and this may also have related to my new strings being too short (I don't know). I just had to back them off a little to give the spring some play. Not exactly sure what this does, but adjusting the screws and backing them off a little loosened things up and now my unit is back in business and pushing plenty of air.

Hope this helps someone with their repair and let me know if you have any questions! :-) Sorli...

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Zony Jones will be eternally grateful.
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