An upgraded version of the Microsoft Surface, the Microsoft Surface Pro Laptop/Tablet hybrid is very difficult to open and repair without further breaking the device.

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Replacing the screen of the Surface Pro

I, and others I know of, bought the 64GB Pro with the intention of upgrading it (in my case, I had no choice. I needed a new laptop/device immideately, and the 128GB won't be available in my area until at least next month).

So we now have a wonderful teardown guide of the Surface Pro that proves it's storage option is a standard mSATA drive. We know how to get the screen off and replace the SSD, but can anyone provide some advice (or a guide would be awesome) on replacing the screen afterwards? Does the adhesive lose some of it's stickiness in the process? Can it just be heated lightly and stuck back on? What are the chances of getting those "soft spots" under the edges of the glass that never fully adhere again, and stick momentarily when pushed on?

tl;dr Can the screen be stuck back on without it being obvious you ever pulled it off?

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On a side note, I wonder if the teardown unit was ever reassembled. I'd be curious to see if everything still functions properly afterwards.

Anyone know what kind of adhesive holds the screen onto the Surface? iPads and the like seem to all use thin, commercial-grade 3M double sided adhesive tape. Is that the case here, or is it something else?

I'm definitely going to replace the mSATA drive in mine (just ordered an mSATA > SATA adapter for cloning the drive and the tools/iOpener from iFixIt) Before I attempt this I want to make sure I can buy an adhesive that will do the job correctly.

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We did the hard work and found out that yes, the screen is openable, and the SSD is replaceable, but opening the Surface Pro is a terrible endeavor. You have to use a heat gun and pry the glue "just right," otherwise you'll either not separate all the glue, or you'll come too close to the display cables and risk shearing them.

Since we were operating blindly — nobody has opened one prior to us — we ended up shearing one of the display cables, so our Surface Pro is now a very solid looking coaster. But we sacrifice ourselves for the science, and that's how things go sometimes. (Don't worry, we'll find other good ways of using the device — our devices are never "gone for good.")

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This is glue. Strong stuff.

You may be able to get away with reusing the existing glue, if you work in a relatively clean environment and don't get a bunch of dust/debris on it. There's gobs of it on the top, but not so much near the bottom, so the bottom area may have "re-sticking" issues. Alternatively, we recommend getting your hands on the strongest 3M double-sided adhesive strips you can find, and then remove the old glue from both sides of the Surface Pro in order to get a good bond.

Also, there are roughly 70ish screws standing between you and the SSD. Not nearly as much of a hassle as the glue, but get ready to exercise your twirly fingers.

Now on to the good news. Here is a shot of the actual SSD found in the Surface Pro:

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From the teardown: "The Micron RealSSD C400 packs 64 GB of storage capacity. It can read 500MB/s and write 95 MB/s — all in a tiny 1.8" form factor."

So as long as you are able to suffer through the opening procedure, you should be able to replace the SSD with a larger unit.

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Thanks for the reply, I appreciate the advice. I think I can be careful and patient enough to get the screen off without damaging the cables, especially now that I've seen what they look like and where they are. I'm really hoping that I'll be able to get this apart with the iOpener on this site, as I'm not a fan of heat guns for this type of work.

I also think that I'd like to try reusing the glue. In your opinion, did it (or at least the top where there was more of it) remain sticky enough to reattach the screen without any danger of it separating again over time? I plan to have some 3M tape on standby regardless, just in case it doesn't work. Any suggestions? I'm worried that whatever I find will be too thick and cause the screen to stick out farther than original. (I wish I could see your teardown in person, rather than just pictures. Maybe then I'd have a good "feel" for what this entails and not have to ask so many stupid questions.)

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The screen on my Surface Pro 3 is lifting slightly (it appears the adhesive is coming off) on the side where the Windows Button is. It lifts anytime I use the kickstand. How to fix it? Can you use other adhesives to glue it back down.

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It took 3 hours to get the glass/LCD assembly off of the Surface Pro 2. Definitely not an easy venture. Used a heat gun, razor blade, iSesamo, and guitar picks to get it off. There were many glass shards. Be sure to wear safety glasses. I would not recommend reusing the adhesive. I was able to clean it off of the bezel. I would use a really good adhesive tape to put it back on. I have some of the type that is used for resealing iPads and iPhones. I plan to use that.

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You should remove all rest glue both from plastic bezel and glass and use double-sided tape.

I think it will be very nice if you will use it in some points around the screen that it will be much easier to open it next time - for changing the battery for example.

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Guys where can I find an LCD replacement for Surface Pro? I found some on ebay but I think they're for the older model I'm assuming.

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Yes, has anyone successfully replaced the Surface Pro screen? I just cracked mine and I'd like to try my hand at doing my own repair, but I don't know where to get a replacement screen.

Thanks!

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Has anyone replaced a surface 2 screen???? Uk based

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I just used a heating gun to remove the screen, it would have been easier if I wanted to replace the lcd and digitizer, but the lcd was fine on mine. with the heating gun and plenty of credit card to shove in between, it came off fairly easily, just take your time, dont force anything. NOTE: be careful at the bottom, that is where all the ribbons are, if your digitizer is going to get replaced anyway, it wont matter if you cut some of them, just dont apply too much heat, or it will melt the important ones underneath. Now, I need to figure out what type of method I have to use to reapply all the glue.

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@Jeremy Hey I'm about to replace my Surface Pro 1 Screen. Can you be of assistance?! I'm going to youtube it for anyone who needs the full walk-through. You can reach me at jim.obrien3@gmail.com

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somebody know where buy the digitalizer for the surface pro?

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For those who still believe they can remove the digitizer and reuse the tape, I'd advise against it. When the unit is heated and the digitizer (GENTLY!!!) pried from the frame, the tape tends to bunch up and create high spots. This, of course, won't allow the new digitizer to sit flush with the frame, thus making a poor finished product. Remove the old tape with a LITTLE heat and a PLASTIC spudger or sturdy fingernail, then use some high-percentage alcohol and a lint-free cloth to clean the remaining bits.

FYI, I didn't have the patience to separate the LCD and Digitizer and just replaced it as a unit for ~$100.

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Were did you fin replacement part for about 100$?

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I don't have a definitive breakdown for you , but I can tell you that there are differences between the RT, RT2 and Pro. I found the Digitizer/Screen assembly on eBay for ~$90US from a Chinese vendor; shipping is 2-4 weeks. Be VERY careful to choose the correct model/style! Look closely at the pictures and read the details thoroughly. It's easy to get confused.

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Is the RT and Pro digitizers the same part? I know the Pro has it bonded directly to the LCD but from what you all are saying it is possible to separate them. So if I buy one of these digitizers that say for RT only, will it work with the Pro?

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Hey do any one know what adhesive is used between the lcd and the digitizer?

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I used a thin double sided adhesive- I think that 3m makes a good one- mine came from hobby lobby. I DON'T recommend using foam double sided tape unless you can find a really thin one...

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From my experience: Just recently I might add that I'm waiting for the last reheat of the glue to settle down. This is my first time doing a surface pro 64 1st edition. I replaced the crappy lite-on SSD they so injustly put in this surface, it lasted 14 months. yep, right past warranty. as usual. Heat gun on the screen, GENTLY, low heat, point the tip away from the center of the screen, never stay in the same place more than a second. your arms will get tired. it has to be hot, not searing hot, but not too easy to touch the glass before separation. start at the top corner, go across the top the the other corner. use good spudgy's, I bought a nice set of 5 metal ones from ebay for a few buck, along with a good metal separator with a very fine tip. SLOWLY work the edges, while heating at the same time to keep the warmth up on the surface. NEVER pry on the lower screen. as your separating the top just let the weight of the screen be the separator from the plastic by standing it on end, you will know when its time to do this, the glue will be easier to let it just come off on its own.

On putting it back together, I just made sure the old glue was as even as possible on the screen and plastic. I then slowly heated the glass just going around in circles with low heat for a minute or two. then set it on high heat, 1500 w and quickly went in a circle to really warm it up. too hot to touch. but not melting. I then turned it over on a nice flat surface, glass down, and put about 10 lbs of Stephen King books on top of it to let it help pressurize the sticking process. about 20 minutes later, took off the books, reheated again on low to get a last few possible bubbles out of it, then repeated the Stephen King pressure technique again.

Well, its holding very well, no bouncy of any corners, and all touch seems better than its been since I bought this thing new about 16 months ago. I sure should've upgraded the sd, but I just did a micron 64 in it, next time I will upgrade it.

Oh, by the way. make sure you got a good supply of T2 bits handy. or at least a good set, these screws are murder in this thing.

Patience Grasshopper, and the prize will be yours. Sure beats the price MS wants to fix these things. All tools cost me about 40 bucks with the heat gun. the SSD was 27 bucks used on ebay. I was going to put a 256 in it, I should have, bet I take it apart again before the month is over.

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that 3M adhesive thickness should be used to attach the scanner and then the screen

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Jonathan Gabriel will be eternally grateful.
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