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2.26 or 2.4 GHz / White plastic unibody enclosure

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Liquid damage, won't turn on

I have one of these here with slight liquid damage (concentrated to the LCD connector area, bit of corrosion) which does nothing when connected to power except display a green light.

I'm no stranger to electronics or smd work so I figure it's worth at least having a go at fixing it.

First thing I did was an SMC reset, no dice.

Next I tried a pram reset, as expected does nothing (since it won't turn on).

Then I tried powering the board using the jumper by the mouse connector on the logic board, nothing. Tried again after removing the keyboard and trackpad connectors, nothing. Tried again after removing the battery, nothing.

I've swapped the dc board and same deal so i assume it's a logic board issue.

Can anyone tell me what I should be seeing on the board at certain points? Maybe I can follow the power around the board until I find the culprit. I have another logic board from a MacBook pro I can possibly raid parts from (2007 model, might still be a few bits on there).

Any advice would be appreciated!

Answer this question I have this problem too

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Did you clean the spilled liquid out fully? What was it? Did you clean up the corrosion fully?

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Yes it's all gone, there was only a very small amount, no idea what it was, didn't seem sticky.

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I should add I measured at the white fuse near the ports and it had 18v on both sides.

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The G3hot seems fine, 3.3v one side, 0v the other.

I have noticed on the battery connector that I get 3.3v on pin 4 but pin 6 is shorted to ground. Anyone have the schematic for that bit? Since theres no board markings and its shorted I have no idea where pin 6 goes.

I should add pin 14 on the SMC (I think its the SMC?) is getting 3.3v.

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Joel, sadly Apple does not provide schematics for their logic boards to the general public. There are a few reverse engineered diagrams and some unauthorized copies floating around on the internet though. Apple does offer technician guides to authorized repair centers which do offer some diagnostic help but is limited to module replacement guidance. At this point I'd say your best bet here is just replace it as most of the components are hard to get.

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http://russell.heistuman.com/2011/05/09/...

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Zac - Baking a liquid damaged logic board is not the best way of fixing it. Often the corrosion has eaten at the solder (oxidized) so reflowing will just make a cold joint. First you need to remove the corrosion then if you have a bad joint you might be able to re-solder it. Please don't do this unless your willing to take the risk of killing your system.

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