Oven Not Turning On

If your oven won't start after running a self-cleaning cycle, then it's likely that your thermal switch has tripped. This switch protects your oven from overheating, which is what happens during the self-clean cycle when it reaches 800-1000 deg F.

• Turn off the breaker to your oven, and then remove brackets holding it in place. These are normally on the front, near the door, and may require a special tool to remove.
• With your oven pulled out, remove the rear panel and locate the thermal fuse.
• Press reset on the fuse. If your fuse doesn't have a reset button, then use a multimeter to test for continuity. If the fuse reads above 1Ω, replace it.

After the control sends current to your igniter or spark electrode, current will begin to flow and open the safety valve. At this point, the igniter will begin to heat until it is hot enough to ignite the gas. Over time, the igniter can weaken and fail to open the safety valve correctly.

• Remove the covers and shields at the bottom of the oven, then turn on a bake setting. Observe the ignitor to see if it begins glowing.
• If the igniter is lit, but the gas hasn't been lit after 90 seconds, there's reason to believe the ignitor has weakened. In this case, check the safety switch for continuity. If the safety switch is fine, replace the igniter.
• If the igniter isn't glowing, remove and test the igniter for continuity (Ω) with a digital multimeter (DMM). Continuity shows whether a continuous electrical path is present.
  • In either case, replace the igniter.
• In other ovens, you may have a ceramic burner tube similar to the spark plug on a car. Remove and inspect the tube for cracks in the housing or damage to the tip. This might indicate damage to the component and need replacing.

A thermal fuse blows if it gets too hot as a way to protect the oven. The self clean setting on ovens may trip or blow this fuse as a result of the high temperatures.

• Locate and test the fuse for continuity (Ω) with a digital multimeter.
• Replace the fuse if it's blown and has no continuity.

The broil and bake elements are separate components and may have failed.

• Turn on the oven and test each component, feeling for heat.
• Remove the heating element that didn't produce heat, and test for continuity with a multimeter. Replace the element if it fails.

The control knob that sets your temperature may have failed. Again, this is a part to test with a digital multimeter for continuity (Ω) . Replace if there's no continuity.

The thermostat triggers the igniter to turn off when the set temperature is reached. A faulty thermostat may not allow the igniter to turn on.

• Remove the thermostat, and test with a multimeter for continuity (Ω)
• No continuity means that the thermostat has failed.

An igniter or electrode power supply wire will commonly burn out close to the heat source and appear blackened. This will prevent ignition.

• Inspect the burner wires.

The safety switch kicks on after the igniter has heated the circuit. This is less likely to fail, but worth checking.

• Remove the wires from the switch, and use a multimeter to check for continuity. The switch should have a non-zero value (Ω).

This board is the brain of your oven. After testing other components first, locate the relay board or electronic control board. There isn't much you can do for testing the board, so it's important to try the other fixes first.

• Visually examine the board for any burn marks or dark components. Replace the board if it appears damaged.