Gas Stove Clicking But Not Lighting

The cap can become misaligned during cleaning if it's bumped.

• Remove the grate, and then recenter the cap.
• Test ignition. If this worked, you're done troubleshooting.

When water or other food debris gets under the cap, it can clog the burner and gas supply and prevent ignition. The gas supply is a tube with a small hole that feeds gas through the burner to the igniter.

• Remove the grate, and then remove the burner cap.
• Remove loose food debris, and scrub the burner clean. If the food is caked on, soak the affected parts in a vinegar and warm water solution.
• While drying, inspect the gas supply. On newer stoves, you'll have to remove fasteners to lift the burner base. The burner base has a hole that allows gas to flow to the igniter. If that hole is clogged, clear it with a paperclip.
• The gas supply feeds through the central hole under the base through a nozzle called a jet. There is a hole in the jet that can become clogged with grease. Use a sewing needle or thumbtack to clear the hole.
• Let the parts dry before reassembling.
• Test ignition and proceed if your stove still did not start.

If by using a lighter, you can get your stove to start, then some part of the ignition system is the issue.

• Start by unplugging the oven from the wall and turning off the gas supply.
• Remove the burner cap, and then disconnect the burner base.
• Inspect wires connecting the range top to the burner head for any signs of damage, wear, and tear. Replace if damaged.

Another way to check for a faulty ignitor is by removing the burner cap and turning the control knob to the ignite position. The ignitor spark will be bluish-white. A yellow or orange spark usually needs replacing.

If your stove isn't clicking, it's likely the ignition module, or switch. The switch will be easier to check first since you can run a continuity test.

• Locate your ignition switches, and grab a multimeter. Cycle the switch, and see if its resistance changes. Acceptable values are 0Ω (zero Ohm) when closed, and OL (open loop) when open.
• You can try popping open the faulty switch, cleaning it, and giving the metal tab a slight bend to improve contact. Replace the switch if this fix fails.

Lastly, if your switches seem fine, consider inspecting and replacing the spark module.