PSP Go Teardown

Teardown

Teardown

Teardowns provide a look inside a device and should not be used as disassembly instructions.

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

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iFixit is proud to present the Sony PSP Go teardown once again! Enjoy. Also check out the YouTube video slideshow!

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Add Note Edit Step 1 — PSP Go Teardown  ¶ 

  • Oh joy! Oh joy! Guess what we got our hands on this time! Its the brand spanking new Sony PSP Go!

  • Although the design of the PSP Go is different from previous PSP models, the PSP Go is not intended to replace its much loved older brother, the PSP 3000.

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Add Note Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Such an elegant backside... But where is the UMD drive? Let's have a moment of silence. R.I.P. UMD drive, we hardly knew ye.

  • The PSP Go measures at 128 x 16.5 x 69 mm and weighs in at 5.6 oz (including the internal battery).

  • Unlike previous PSP models, the PSP Go makes do with 16 GB of internal flash memory.

  • Oooooh it slides up to reveal the gamepad!

  • The product label has the usual power requirements and FCC warnings. It appears even Japanese companies have their products manufactured in China.

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Add Note Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Removing the necessary screws required to gain access into the innards of the PSP Go.

  • On this device, all screws are readily accessible and use a common Phillips #0 head. No hidden tabs or tri-wing screws here.

  • With a non-soldered battery and Phillips head screws, why doesn't Sony approve of DIY battery replacement?

  • We can think of only one reason: it starts with "cha," and ends with "ching." That's right, the sound of the cash register.

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Add Note Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • A simple flick of a PSP opening tool and presto!

  • Ladies and Gentlemen, behold! The inside of the PSP Go.

  • Unlike the Zune HD or the iPod Classic, the Go uses no metal internal framework. In fact, it has no internal framework; all structural integrity is provided by the plastic outer cases.

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Add Note Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • We begin our dissection by disconnecting a few connectors and removing a couple screws.

  • It was clear the board wouldn't come out without first removing the triggers. So we decided to start with the left trigger button.

  • The trigger button ribbon cables are connected to the board with ZIF connectors; a careful flick with the PSP opening tool released the clamp and freed the ribbon cable.

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Add Note Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Firmly stuck to the battery is a trilingual Warranty Void seal. They really covered all bases with this one, as long as you know English, French, or Spanish.

  • Good news: the battery is not soldered to the board.

  • Bad news: unfortunately, you have to peel the warranty sticker back to remove the battery.

  • But more good news: if you're careful, you can remove the battery without disturbing the "VOID" portion of the seal, but we didn't tell you that.

  • Just slide a PSP opening tool in between the battery and sticker. Work your way gently side-to-side, until the battery is free from the sticker. Presto-changeo!

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Add Note Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • The battery's a Li-ion 3.7V, 930 mAh, 3.5Wh unit.

  • Here's how the three major handheld gaming devices stack up in the battery department:

    • PSP Go: 930 mAh, unofficially user replaceable

    • DSi: 840 mAh, officially user replaceable

    • iPod touch 3rd Gen: 789 mAh, unofficially user replacable, requires difficult soldering

  • The PSP wins on capacity, and the DSi wins on serviceability. The touch, well, if you can't say something nice...

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Add Note Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Pull the cosmetic cover away from the bottom edge of the Go, near the audio jack.

  • Two additional screws secure the joystick to the Go.

  • Steel covers were placed over the majority of the chips to guard them from electromagnetic interference.

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