iFixit

More parts fly out of the Pro including the power connector and rear-facing camera.

• The rear camera resolution is the same 720P as the front, so the Surface Pro may not be the best replacement for your Nikon D600 SLR.

The power connector clearly labels each pin with G, 12V, and DET.

Also making an appearance is the top-mounted microphone and its soft rubber enclosure, good for FaceTime Skype video calls.

The plastic top-rear bezel also doubles as a vent for the Pro's laptop-worthy hardware.

Two ports through the bezel act as venting ducts for the fans, directing hot air out the top. It appears that the Pro's fans draw ambient air in through the many vent holes spaced around the perimeter, then force that air over the heat sink's two radiators and out of the device, cooling the CPU and GPU.

Microsoft spared no expense when it came to keeping the Surface Pro going. They sourced the Cadillac of batteries from LG: an Escalade 42 Wh unit. The battery is rated for 7.4 V and 5676 mAh.

• Impressive specs? Note that the iPad 4 has a 43 Wh battery, albeit at 3.7 V.

And even with all this battery juice, the reported battery life of the Surface Pro is less than 5 hours.

Lesson learned about adhesive in this teardown—we go straight to the iOpener in order to get the battery out of its sticky cage.

As always, we are ignoring some kind of warning. This time, it tells us not to remove the battery from the back cover. Apparently, to safely replace your battery you will need a whole back cover assembly.

We don't understand the point of heavily-glued batteries. This kind of planned obsolesce is completely unnecessary.

We assume the sweet camo pattern on the rear case interior is an insulating coating applied to the otherwise conductive panel.

Microsoft Surface Pro Repairability Score: 1 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)

The battery is not soldered to the motherboard, so at least no soldering is required to replace it.

The SSD is removable — but you risk killing your tablet by trying to open it.

There are over 90 screws inside this device. We're proponents of mechanical fasteners, but this number is a tad crazy.

The display assembly (comprising of a fused glass and LCD) is extremely difficult to remove/replace.

Tons of adhesive hold everything in place, including the display and battery.

Unless you perform the opening procedure 100% correctly, chances are you'll shear one of the four cables surrounding the display perimeter.