Yellow Light of Death Repair

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Fix consoles plagued with the infamous "Yellow Light of Death".

  • Author: Brett Hartt
  • Time required: 1 hour
  • Difficulty: Difficult

Use this guide to repair PlayStation 3s with the "Yellow Light of Death" error.

Note: Your PlayStation may look slightly different inside. Be cautious when performing this process on your machine.

Sections (continued)
Relevant Parts
Image #1

Edit Step 1 Smart Plate  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the black rubber screw cover from the side of the PS3.

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 8.5 mm T10 Security Torx screw from the smart plate.

Image #1

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pull the smart plate toward the hard drive bay, then lift it off the body of the PS3.

Image #1

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Be sure to keep track of the small metal bracket loosely held in the top cover, if equipped.

Image #1

Edit Step 5 Top Cover  ¶ 

  • Remove the following seven screws:

    • Six 52 mm Phillips screws

    • One 30 mm Phillips screw

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Lift the top cover from its rear edge and rotate it toward the front of the PS3.

  • Remove the top cover.

Image #1

Edit Step 7 Blu-ray Disc Drive  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the Blu-ray power cable from the motherboard.

  • Pull the connector straight up and out of its socket.

Image #1

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Lift the Blu-ray drive from the edge nearest the power supply and rotate it away from the chassis enough to access its ribbon cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the Blu-ray ribbon cable socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the ribbon cable out of its socket.

  • Remove the Blu-ray drive from the PS3.

  • If replacing the Blu-ray drive, transfer the power cable to your new drive.

Image #1

Edit Step 10 Motherboard Assembly  ¶ 

  • Pull the control board ribbon cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Image #1

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 12 mm Phillips screws securing the control board to the lower case.

  • Remove the control board and its attached cable from the PS3.

Image #1

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the following eight screws securing the motherboard assembly to the lower case:

    • Seven 12 mm Phillips screws (ph2)

    • One 30 mm Phillips screw

Image #1

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the control board bracket.

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive bay cover away from the lower case.

  • Remove the hard drive bay cover.

Image #1

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Lift the motherboard assembly out of the lower case.

Image #1

Edit Step 16 AC Inlet  ¶ 

  • Remove the 7.7 mm Phillips screw securing the ground strap to the chassis.

Image #1

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Pull the AC-In cables slightly away from the rear cover for clearance to access the AC-In connector.

  • While depressing its locking mechanism, pull the AC-In connector out of its socket on the power supply.

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Pull the AC inlet out from the bottom of the rear cover, minding any of its cables that may get caught.

Image #1

Edit Step 19 Rear Cover  ¶ 

  • While lightly pulling the rear cover away from the logic board assembly, use the flat end of a spudger to release the clips along the top and bottom edges of the rear cover.

Image #1

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the rear cover from the logic board assembly.

Image #1

Edit Step 21 Heat Sink  ¶ 

  • De-route the fan cables from the plastic finger molded into the heat sink.

  • Disconnect the fan from the motherboard.

  • Pull the connector straight up and out of its socket.

Image #1

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 9 mm Phillips screws securing the memory card reader to the chassis.

Image #1

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Lift the memory card reader out of the PS3 enough to access its ribbon cable.

  • Flip up the retaining flap on the memory card reader ribbon cable socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the ribbon cable out of its socket and remove the memory card reader.

Image #1

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the DC-In cables from the front of the heat sink.

  • Pull the connector toward the front of the PS3.

Image #1

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Remove the five 9 mm Phillips screws securing the power supply to the chassis.

Image #1

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Lift the power supply by its front edge to clear the two posts attached to the motherboard.

  • Remove the power supply.

Image #1

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 16.5 mm shouldered Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

  • Remove the two brackets held under the screws you just removed.

Image #1

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Lift the motherboard assembly off the heat sink.

  • The heat sink may still be held in place by the thermal paste. If this is the case, gently pry the heat sink away from the motherboard housing. Make sure to not bend the copper piping on the heat sink.

  • Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste when reattaching the heat sink.

  • Never applied thermal paste before? Our thermal paste guide makes it easy.

    • If you're following the YLOD repair guide, stay tuned for where to apply the replacement thermal paste.

Image #1

Edit Step 29 Motherboard  ¶ 

  • Flip up the retaining flap on the Blu-ray ribbon cable socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Remove the Blu-ray ribbon cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Flip up the flap on the memory card reader ribbon cable socket and remove the ribbon cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Flip up the retaining flap on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth ribbon cable socket.

  • Pull the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth ribbon cable out of its socket.

Image #1

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the motherboard and set it aside.

  • Pull the connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Image #1

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the PRAM battery from the motherboard.

  • The PRAM socket is delicate and has the potential to break off the motherboard. If possible, hold down the socket as you disconnect the PRAM battery cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Rotate the PRAM battery slightly counter-clockwise and remove it from the motherboard assembly.

Image #1

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Remove the blue 8 mm Phillips screw securing the hard drive cage to the chassis.

Image #1

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Push the hard drive cage toward the front of the motherboard assembly.

  • Remove the hard drive from the motherboard assembly.

Image #1

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.7 mm #0 Phillips screws securing the chassis to the hard drive socket.

Image #1

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 8.3 mm #0 Phillips screws securing the two halves of the motherboard together.

Image #1

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Carefully feed the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth ribbon cable through the hole in the top motherboard cover.

  • Remove the top motherboard cover.

Image #1

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • Remove the motherboard from the bottom motherboard cover.

Image #1

Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Flip up the retaining flap on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth ribbon cable socket.

  • Remove the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth ribbon cable from the motherboard.

  • Motherboard remains.

Image #1

Edit Step 42 Yellow Light of Death (YLOD) Fix Kit  ¶ 

  • Using the flat end of the spudger, remove the old thermal paste off the CPU and GPU on the motherboard.

  • Using a cleaner such as Arctic Silver's ArctiClean or Goof-Off, clean the CPU and GPU.

  • In the same manner as previously described, remove the thermal paste from the heat sink.

Image #1

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • Using your fingers or the flat end of a spudger, remove the old thermal pads on the logic board as indicated:

    • Large square thermal pads

    • Small square thermal pads

    • Small rectangular thermal pads (located on the underside of the board, as highlighted in the second picture)

  • Some of the smaller thermal pads may be attached to the metal casing that surrounds the motherboard rather than the motherboard itself.

Image #1

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Set the heat gun to "Low", and let it run for a few seconds to reach operating temperature.

  • Holding the motherboard upright, warm up the entire board with the heat gun. The board should be warm, but not too hot.

    • This will prevent damage to the board caused by localized thermal expansion.

Image #1

Edit Step 45  ¶ 

  • Set the motherboard on a support so that the CPU and GPU are completely supported and level.

  • The support should be something that can resist temperatures upwards of 300 degrees Celsius. Suggestions: scrap lumber, old books, cardboard box.

  • In the next few steps, you will be reflowing the solder under the chips marked in red.

  • Once you begin reflowing the chips, do not touch or move the motherboard until it is completely cool. Doing so can render the motherboard irreparably damaged.

Image #1

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • Using a circular motion, evenly heat (using low heat) each of the four areas for roughly 25 seconds each.

  • Begin heating the GPU, marked "RSX", and heat the chips in a zig-zag order.

Image #1

Edit Step 47  ¶ 

  • Continue heating the chips using the same circular motion as described above, for about 25 seconds each.

Image #1

Edit Step 48  ¶ 

  • Ensure that the motherboard has completely cooled before continuing this guide.

    • If you have not applied thermal paste before you can check our thermal paste guide whilst it is cooling.

  • Apply a thin bead of thermal paste on the CPU.

  • Using the thermal paste spreader card, spread the paste out thinly and evenly on the chip.

  • In the same way, apply a thin layer of thermal paste on the GPU.

  • Clean up any excess thermal paste off the motherboard.

Image #1

Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Peel the white plastic covers off one side of the new thermal pads. Be careful to just peel the cover off the pad, and not the transparent adhesive.

  • Apply the fresh thermal pads to the motherboard in the locations indicated:

    • Large square pads

    • Small square pads

    • Small Rectangular Pads

Image #1

Edit Step 50  ¶ 

  • Peel the remaining white plastic cover off the other side of thermal pads.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order starting at step 41.

For more information, check out the PlayStation 3 device page.

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Done this twice, first time it lasted 2 weeks and the second time 10 days. I'll do it one more time and if it goes again, I think I'll be buying a new console.

Great repair guide, clear and simple -I don't know why it's rated as difficult -there's no soldering or wiring to do.

Franco, · Reply

Great kit! And it worked! We have brought the PS3 back to life! Hoping it stays this way! But for the price of the kit it is worth the try!

ekozocas, · Reply

I completed this repair last night. It wasn't as hard as I thought, though it did take me almost 3 hours to accomplish. My PS3 is back up and running, and the fan is so guiet not I can hardly hear it.

I will add that these pictures provided are from a 60GB launch PS3. I have an 80GB (MGS4 Bundle), and some of the inner workings are a little different. The card reader remains attached to the upper casing, and the ground wire for the A/C switch is run under the power supply... as opposed to over it as it is in this guide.

Overall, this is a great guide and the kit was a great price. I hope my PS3 will remain operational at least through Christmas... I've got my eye on the UC3 Bundle; )

jshaas, · Reply

This is an excellent guide! I've had the YLOD before about a year ago, and my brother shipped it off to get it fixed for me (his COD:MW2 was stuck inside). It cost him $150 to get it repaired because the warranty had run out. While it did work for an entire year after the repair (which is very surprising with most people saying theirs only worked for about a month after getting it fixed), I definitely don't think all that money was worth it. I am extremely pleased that I was able to fix it myself with absolutely no cost to me (I borrowed a heat gun and thermal paste from a friend). No cost is way better than $150 obviously. I do intend to sell my PS3 to Gamestop though and buy a new slim, which I hear is less likely to get the YLOD due to better cooling. I will most likely open it up at replace the thermal paste though, as I've heard the paste Sony uses is very cheap, along with a few modifications for better cooling.

--------------

Long story short, this guide just saved me $150 dollars. Also, my PS3 is the 60GB backwards compatible if that is of interest to anyone.

Kar, · Reply

Finished this repair today after purchasing the kit. A total success. I am hoping for many more years with my playstation. Thanks to ifixit for the incredibly clear guide on how to do this repair.

goblue1229, · Reply

Success! Great guide with screw size and location detail that beats anything I've seen. My first gen. 60g is back in action without having to call Sony or spend $150.00 for a refurb. Thanks for the pdf. format as well, I'll be back to your site for sure. daddyed

daddyed, · Reply

My PS3 has been revived! It took me two tries to get it right. The first time, I didn't get it hot enough, so I heated the heck out of it the second time. And now I will be enjoying my PS3 all over again. Thanks iFixit!

isaacarchuleta, · Reply

I can't believe people are actually getting results with this, heat gunning the RSX is at most going to allow for a poor reflow and possible warping at the corners of the chip without a proper board holder.

Also, at the temperatures required to reflow the solder, the thermal transfer compound between the RSX chip and it's heat spreader is going to be rendered much less effective.

As preventive maintenance, replace your power supply if it's the less efficient ZSSR539IA model with an APS-226 or 231 and clean then reapply the thermal paste. Once the YLoD occurs though, the system really needs to be reballed, reusing old solder and possibly shorting contacts under the chip with leftover flux is a bad idea.

Mark, · Reply

The point of the guide is to help those that already have the YLOD. 99 people out of 100 that look at this guide have no need for preventative maintenance because the damage is already done. Also, if your PS3 in not working, there is little to no risk of breaking anything. If I have a YLOD I don't care that heat gunning my RSX chip might warp the board because it's already broke.

ficoho,

Worked great for me on the first try. I had the state of mind that I can't break it any further,lol. Thanks MJ for the helpful video.

irv, · Reply

lol. awesome state of mind, irv. i agree.

h bomb,

Worked perfectly! Thanks iFixit!

adrian, · Reply

It work's great but I put the Mainboard into the oven with 200 degree celcius for 7 minutes. It's easylier as with the Heatgun.

many greets

Fex

Fex, · Reply

Great step-by-step guide and MJ is pretty cute on the video! It worked perfectly for me... As mentioned in another comment, the assembly may be a little different depending on the model, but nothing to worry about. Thanks a lot!

amuralima, · Reply

Color me impressed. Was able to resurrect my 60Gb model in about 3 hours. I have no real expectation that it will last, but I was able to retrieve my son's favorite disc using this guide, and the system seems to be running much cooler that it did before (fan is not coming on nearly as much) since I was also able to clean out all of the accumulated dust from about 3 years of usage. Kit was worth every penny to me.

mikehulen, · Reply

I bought the kit and followed the guide and got it back up and working in a couple hours. I'm a total novice with this stuff and it was pretty easy. I must have a different model so some screens were off but with some educated guessing I must have done the right thing(s). Came out with a couple extra screws but again, didn't seems to hurt. Have used the PS3 for a hour or two at a time for a couple sessions and still working great. Hopefully it will stick. Last time I sent it out for a repair ($80) and the tech shop fixed it then, and it lasted about 6 months before YLOD again. I sort of don't expect this to be a long term fix, but now I know what to do to fix until a cheaper PS3 arrives... thanks iFixIt!

gregglavine, · Reply

Great guide and kit.

A lot easier than I expected, but did take me quite a bit longer than an hour. Playstation seems to be working fine, and at first I thought I must have forgotten to re-connect the fan as it's so quiet now.

Thank you.

Kevin Aitchison, · Reply

I felt the same way, I don't think that the fan wasn't this quiet when i purchased the system.

nateprejean,

Thank you so much for this. I suffered a YLOD on Saturday and I got all the parts together and just tackled it this evening. It was a little difficult putting it back together but I eventually go everything back into place. Re flowed the chips and added Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 and the PS3 started right up. No red lights, No YLOD, No noises!

In fact, It sounds so much quieter now. And the fan seems to be running a ##%! of alot better since it was aired out. My only suggestion is to maybe get a inter cooler to maybe extend its lifespan. Who knows?

Thank you for this guide. It was very well detailed and straightforward. It saved me alot of money and it adds a newly profitable skill under my belt. Keep your head up!

DiscoTaco, · Reply

I was able to get through the guide with little issue. The process took a little longer than the 1 hour suggested but the guide did an excellent job of guiding what to do and where things were.

The issue that I have with the repair is that it lasted less than 24 hours. I know that there is no guarantee that the fix will work or even how long it will last once completed but after seeing the YLOD return the next morning I couldn't help but feel that my 180 minutes (I took my time to ensure everything was done properly) could have been better spent driving to a store to buy a new PS3.

In short-Great guide but questionable results.

ficoho, · Reply

I hate to be critical, but there should be some fore-warning on this guide. It voids your warranty, and any chance of Sony servicing the console. In my opinion, this is a repair that only a company with BGA rework equipment should do. Any DIY fix will last a very short amount of time. (I've experienced it myself - trust me, I've tried on many xbox 360's)

Daniel, · Reply

highly recommend. 6 months ago my PS3 had ylod. Ordered kit. Its been working ever since (its now July). All I can say is take your time (4hrs for me), lay out parts as you go (you'll be stripping it to bare bones). FOLLOW DIRECTIONS. They are easy to follow. Get muffin tins to put small parts & screws in and label what step they were removed so that when you put it back together its easy.

guyruffner, · Reply

Great help and highly recommended! I'm not the most mechanical guy but these directions and images made this project easy. After a few hours, I plugged it in and heard that beautiful horn sound to indicate my PS3 was back. I must admit that putting everything back was a little harder than taking it apart (especially the Wi-Fi cable) but I thank you ifixit.com. Plus now I own a heat gun!

captfluoro, · Reply

Hi. I have done everything that is in the guide, but the problem still retables itself. The LED doesn't change after the reparation. Somebody knows if I have to do some kind of "reset" before using PS3? Help me....

mattesenatore, · Reply

I bought the kit and everything... My PS3 only worked long enough for me to get excited about it. Updated the PSN firmware which took about 45 mins... But when I put a game in the PS3 shut down :-\ I waited a while and let it cool though. It came back on for a second but again, shut down and gave the YLOD again. Not sure what went wrong but at least I tried. Kind of seems like a waste of money now but I can't say my results are typical.

cupidboy1814, · Reply

anyone using cechh version. have problem with step 15. seems to be a catch on the left hand side of rear cover (looking from the back). cant detach motherboard assembly from lowercase. pls advice

chewguopiao, · Reply

What has two thumbs and can fix a YLOD? This guy, thanks ifixit! The pictures on this guide were pretty different from the inner workings of my ps3 but helped enough. I'm going to take something else apart now -Nate

nateprejean, · Reply

Revived a CECHE01 console to life which I believe is a 2nd Gen or 3rd Gen unit. I also did some mods to keep it running cool.

So All in All I used

-Compressed Air

-19 Bladed Fan for Heatsink

-APS 231 Power Supply

-Artic MX-4 Thermal Paste

-Ifixit Kit which includes Pads etc

-Added a 19 Bladed Fan to the Heatsink and tossed the original 15 bladed Fan

(These can be found on Ebay for under $30)

-I replaced the original APS-226 Power Supply for the more efficient APS-231 Unit which runs cooler and draws less amps and is compatible with my unit and the 1st and 2nd gen PS3's (These can also be found on Ebay for under $30 but if you have the Slim model disregard because these have a much better power supply already)

Identification Chart can be found here: http://www.edepot.com/playstation3.html#...

-Used Artic MX-4 instead of the pasted that comes with this kit because the curing time is instant and has much better properties

This install is rather simple but the hardest part is keeping the screws organized and remembering where they go for the reassembly. The install time is listed as 1 hour plan for about 2-3 hours if this is your first time doing this. The Ps3 fan has 5 different speeds and is loudest in playing Blu-Ray Movies. If this fix doesn't work go to a professional who has reballing equipment.

RemzRR, · Reply

Having experience fixing laptops this project was a new challenge for me when my ps3 shown the YLOD and this guide helped me understand and accomplished the task. But it is worth noticing that the pictures don't apply to the original PS3 which has the memory cards reader and extra usb ports on the front. But is easy to figure out what to do having all those self describing pics. Thanks!!!

luisjust4u, · Reply

Thanks for the clear guide! This did work for me and my PS3's YLOD problem. After reading many comments here, I was not shy with the heat-gun step. The amount of dust inside of this almost six-year old console was amazing (no doubt contributing to heat issues)! It did take me all of 3 hours, but I took my time, kept screws organized into separate compartments based on steps in the guide (recommended). I was quite happy to see the normal start-up sequence happen after the repair was complete. I feel that I saved myself some serious cash and learned something in the process - a win-win! If I have to do it again, I probably will be able to do it in half of the time. XBOX 360 RROD fix next!

refischer, · Reply

Went form having ylod to stuck at standby with solid red light unable to power on :(

matt hamada, · Reply

Thanks. Perfect guide and it worked, only issue could be the temperature and time of the heatgun. I tried on several scrap harddrives before doing it to the PS3 board to verify the right temperature and time- by testing you can check when the chips gets unsoldered. It may be a good suggestion for people that does not have long lasting success with this repair. It may be that you do not get the temperature high enough to get the solder to float underneath the chip. Frank.

Frank Moeller, · Reply

Heat gun trick worked great, though my original ps3 looked different on the inside (im in the uk, power supply unit is black in this one and the chips are arranged around it differently). Dissassembly was still fairly easy, although there were two large metal prongs sticking up into the power supply unit, which put up quite a bit of resistance to taking it off. Anyone else who is taking apart a uk one, once your sure youve removed all the screws and plugs, a bit of elbow grease is needed.

Aidan, · Reply

Hey, what model is this? I have the same issue but I'm in the US. I have a model with a black power supply and no card reader. It's the 40 MB version, I think first gen. It's also one of the models that doesn't play PS2 games at all (not even the software version).

The internals look entirely different and I'm afraid of messing it up.

Galenb,

My buddy's ps3 got the ylod and he got a new one. Gave me his old one and said if I could get it working to save his data I could have the ps3. Got the kit, saved his data, and scooped myself up a ps3 on the cheap. Thanks for the guide!

tyderiumds, · Reply

THANK YOU!!!!!! I’m really happy with your guide. I rescue my PS3 from YLOD with the help of your spectacular fix guide. It’s very accurate and precise. It was a flawless step-by-step fix! Thank you again ifixit, keep up the good work!

Spirit Catcher, · Reply

Our PS3 suffered an apparent YLOD attack after about five years. Figuring it was a goner anyway, decided to take a flyer on the iFixit repair kit after watching Fixit videos and guides--and it worked! :) Guide was extremely clear--even down to the number, size/type, and location of fasteners. Took about four hours, but not on all repair, mainly just because we were curious about what was inside and how it was put together. Very rewarding!

Another advantage over just buying a new one was that it allowed us the opportunity to back up saved-game data, as hadn't been done recently at the time the YLOD struck.

One suggestion: The video is good for an overview, but as the video says, when you're actually working, follow the GUIDE and not the video.

THANKS, iFixit!

Kim, · Reply

I have to admit I was skeptical about this working, but it did. Who knows how long it will last, I have heard 2 days to 2 years. I was only concerned about it being online long enough to transfer my saved data to a new PS3 and it was. Well worth the $50.

jasonmckee, · Reply

Great guide and easy fix

richpiaia, · Reply

fixed....didnt take long either. thanks

alanlegardo, · Reply

I am VERY DISAPPOINTED! I have bought the ylod fix kit, followed all of the instructions, yet my PlayStation 3 still has the yellow light of death wtf man, just a waste of time and money!

Ghost82evil, · Reply

Great kit and repair guide. One suggestion though: Instead of just a red triangle w/ bang to mark critical steps, make the text red too. I was zoomed in on the repair guide, missed the red marker, and pulled off the PRAM socket:(

beakes, · Reply

Thank you, Brett & MJ for the excellent guide and video!

My 1st gen PS3 had succumb to the YLoD after 6 years of virtually daily use, and I was able to get it up and running with the help of your instructions!

This was the first time I've taken apart my PS3 and it had accumulated a very significant amount of dust, which certainly contributed to it overheating thus causing the YLoD. I thoroughly cleaned the entire system, and used Arctic Silver 5 along with ArctiClean on the CPU, GPU and heat sinks to improve dissipation.

Since I already had all of the necessary tools, my only expense was $15 for the thermal pads (bought separately on Amazon), thus saving 80-90% of what it would have cost to send it in to get fixed professionally + I got the pads delivered next day and installed in under 2 hours, as opposed to waiting for roundtrip shipping and the repair turnaround time (1-2 weeks).

I had no expectations going into this, especially considering the age of my console, so I'm extremely happy with the results!!

ivan8, · Reply

Just tried this and my ps3 is alive again... thank you. Will be transferring to a new slim as soon as possible just in case the repair doesnt last....

darin holmes, · Reply

Worked like a charm, my PS3 is back alive and kicking (even though it's been only two days). Was able to back everything up which was my main concern, money well spent. Thanks a lot iFixit!

formula1, · Reply

just finished and the ps3 started to work. i hope it lasts at least a coup of weeks

neneblue18, · Reply

This worked great for me and I'm glad that I bought the tool kit because it really came in handy. My 1st Gen PS3 has been down since 2011 and now I can play those games that I held on to.

Thanks iFixit

traveler, · Reply

Excellent guide! I was able to bring back my PS3 Phat back to life!

jessehernandez, · Reply

I would just like to say thank you. Guide was fairly easy to follow and the video assited. My Son and I did this in about two hours with a few breaks. Now a day later and a few hours of play and this guide and the kit did indeed fix our YLOD. Thank you very much.

Jim and Joseph

East Stroudsburg, PA

jimmy151, · Reply

PS3 CECHH01 Time to complete ~45 minutes. - Well, I have to admit that I am actually surprised that it worked. It didn't seem like 25 seconds per chip was actually enough time to melt the solder. Since the picture guide doesn't address my model of PS3 I just went to town and took it apart. This model is very straight forward to take apart with no surprises or special tools needed. So far everything seems to be working as it should. I guess we'll see if the repair lasts a reasonable amount of time. Thanks!

The Ed, · Reply

WAHOOOOOOO!!! iT TOTALY WORKED!!!

Now to back it up to a new ps3...

Rob Emmer, · Reply

I was a little nervous about trying this on my own (with help from my son), but I made it through. I bought the iFixit kit, followed (most) of the directions, and my PS3 is up and running. My particular unit is slightly different in some areas than in the guide, so there was a little guess work in spots (esp the heat sync/fan was connected differently to the CPU. At first, I thought the (RSX) cover came off when I removed the heat sync, but I found out that was how it was supposed to be... weird but I handled it. I have an older unit), but it worked out. Thanks iFixit!!

jflo69rmnp, · Reply

This guide is extremely helpful. I did the reflow twice, and it finally worked on the 2nd try.

Make sure you heat the board components well to get the solder flowing. Also, make sure you let the board cool for 15-20 mins afterward.

Also, be careful to attach all the wires correctly, making sure they're all properly seated. If you mess up one connection, you'll have to do this time consuming process twice.

I also took the hard drive out, put it in a Ziploc bag, and placed it in the freezer the second time I did the reflow. The old "Freezer trick" is one I've seen save many hard drives, especially those of the Seagate variety in the PS3.

I'm not sure what made it work the second time, but be patient. It's worth trying more than once, so make sure to save some thermal paste.

I have the 80GB launch version of the PS3, btw, which is notorious for YLOD. My son plays his PS3 pretty hard, so I'm surprised it didn't break sooner.

Just be patient and take your time. It will work.

vinzunza, · Reply

Unless you have other serious problems, this guide works. i had a different model than the one here (CECHG01) but, follow the guide and it will serve you well. Took a gamble buying my PS3 at a Goodwill for $50, had the YLOD but, with help from this site, i brought it back from the dead. It currently cant find the HDD but i think that's mostly due to my ignorance trying to reconnect the blu ray to MB ribbon wire and bent it horribly plus, i mildly injured the infamous clip. Avoid those mistakes, and you'll have a working PS3. Thank you Ifixit.com.

Brenton Spencer, · Reply

Did it twice now on two different PS3 Worked beautifully both times great guide.

dionjones2, · Reply

EDIT: Forgot to mention, 60 gig release version. Canada.

Got the kit, ripped her apart, did the stuff, and no dice. Turned on long enough to eject the blue ray disk and yellow light again. However, the cable for the blue ray (where it connects to the motherboard) on the motherboard side of the connection, the fastener broke. I figured if I put the cable in place, held down the fastener and crazy glued it, would stay put, ensuring a tight connection. that part at least seemed to work, but after several unsuccessful attempts at start up, I started ripping it apart and troubleshooting all my connections. No luck so far. Would the glue have wrecked the whole thing? Or is it possible there is another issue? Anyone got any ideas?

Again, what happens when I start up: Everything seems normal. Blue light comes on. sounds like it's starting up. Fan kicks in fast, Yellow light.

When I first had the yellow light, the fan didn't even kick in, nor did the blue light.

Thoughts? Suggestions? I really want to finish gta5 ._.

cannonball29, · Reply

Aggravating. I did everything accordingly. It turns on and lasts for about 10 seconds. Then, the fan goes crazy and it shuts down. What a waste of money. At least I was able to eject the game. I wouldn't recommend this crap. WASTE.

yoyoma7, · Reply

can u fix mine

jamie, · Reply

Though the internals are quite different - especially the way the heatsink (fan unit) joins to the mobo, no card reader, no separate control board - following this guide as closely as I could seems to have fixed a YLOD on a CECHG03 PS3 - at least it has fired up and is now updating.

Many thanks.

Dave, · Reply

About a month ago my PS3 took a turn for the worse and after seven years finally fell to the YLOD. I researched and found this website with high hopes of being able to repair my system. After reading all of the reviews, I came to the notion that it is literally a 50/50 chance of resurrecting my system. I bought the repair kit and received it within a few days. Today I performed the operation that was needed to potentially bring my system back to life.

After two 1/2 hours of taking apart my system, I finally was able to plug it back in. I turned the switch and the red light came on! Success! Well...up to this point it was. I turned on the PS3 and waited. It started and prompted me to reset the date/time. I was happy to assist with this matter. After two minutes of running, the fan started to get loud and the system shut off again and with an unwelcome sight, the yellow light ventured back into my life. I tried this two more times before I came to the conclusion that it was never coming back.

Michael, · Reply

Unfortunately, it didn't work for me. Still with a YLOD :(

Philippe Leduc, · Reply

IT'S ALIVE!!! That is all I got to say. The heat gun actually worked though I was extremely skeptical if it would do anything. Currently my formerly YLOD PS3 is working. It has lasted long enought to do a 10 hour backup and I watched some Netflix too. Used another guide to take it apart and used this guide to put it back together. This one is much better.

This guide would be better if it had pictures of the screws and not just tech specs for the screws. Sometime you forget what goes where after a few days. I fixed it!! Thank you :-)

marcvill, · Reply

Why did my USB ports stop working after this fix?

Larry, · Reply

Followed directions exactly, no more YLOD, but system says system is too hot within a minute of booting. Took 5 1/2 hours, waited over 20 minutes after heating. Unfortunately a waste of money :-(

aegixx, · Reply

i got one to repair from my kid, after taking it apart, it appears someone already tried this method and failed. the reason? the burned in one spot too long, and actually blew the tiny capacitors off their pads about an inch in which they settled and cooled. plus you can see the solder pools under one of the processor, another indication they stayed in one spot too long.

iamgrendle, · Reply

I was getting ready to pack up my games and belongings after getting ylod; thanks to ifixit (totally love this whole site), not only am I playing my ps3 again with all my saves and everything, but I'm bragging to my friends how I epicly fixed it!

gregmoldovan, · Reply

Terrific guide. I used this guide and the toolkit sold by ifixit and everything worked for my 60GB CECHA01 model. My PS3 died while watching a Blu-ray, so my Blu-ray was stuck inside and I hadn't backed up any of my game saves or anything. I bought a new slim PS3 and was able to fix the fat guy (thanks to this guide!) and got my Blu-ray disc and transferred all my data to the slim. Plus, the fat guy's still working. It's only been a day, but still. Thanks for this guide, Brett and thanks for the helpful video, MJ.

hogurt, · Reply

I just completed this fix on my A01 launch console, and to my surprise it seems to have actually worked. I'll update when I know how long it lasts. I was a bit skeptical, but for the price, and considering I am obviously 5 or 6 years past the warranty, it was worth a shot and I got my stuck disc back and hopefully I'll be able to get through GTA 5. Thanks iFixIt!

brianbclarke, · Reply

UPDATE: The fix worked for about 3 months for me. Enough to finish GTA5 at least. I re-did the heat gun and thermal paste again and it worked for less than a week after the 2nd fix. RIP PS3. Still a great kit and it was worth it for me.

brianbclarke,

The fix worked but didn't last. I could get my disc out and update the firmware. Then I left it 6 days (because of a vacation) but it YLOD again now. I didn't change the thermal pads but they seemed fine. My PS3 is about 6 years old.

Diego, · Reply

I found it quite nice that she added the step of heating up the entire board to this process. I have found that taking a hair dryer and heating up the entire board keeps the board from curving due to uneven heating. Most of the videos on youtube don't mention this, and this woman does. This video is right on and will work 100% of the time.

Aeon PC, · Reply

I had little doubt that this would work. Considering all the positive feed back I have read in the comments on the site. I have a launch 60G and it had been going strong until about a month ago. I figured I would give ifixit a try. If the stories are true about the going rate of $150 to send it to Sony to fix. Why do that when brand new system will cost you $200! The guide was great and tear down was easy. The only step that I left out was 34 detaching the pram battery. I could not get it to turn and did not seem to be a necessary risk to force it and break it. Reassembled it and fired it up this morning (with the eject button! in case it did not work. I might at least get the disc back) and I am enjoying the fruits of my labor. One concern I do have is, in the hour that it was running the fan did seem to kick in to the higher speed more often then I remember. It did not feel hot though! Not sure if that is good or bad. Thx ifixit for the fun experience and bringing my ps3 back to life for the time being.

apvapor1, · Reply

Rejoiced for a whole ten seconds as my PS3 showed signs of life after this fix, but then the fan started revving like crazy and my PS3 shut itself off about a second later. Turned it off and on again a few times just to be sure, but still no dice. Any advice on what I might have done wrong?

vezper, · Reply

I'm having the same issue. After a few seconds, the fan gets really loud, I get a message saying that the system is overheating, then it shuts down.

I remember clearing the fans of dust when I had disassembled everything...

demonfox09,

*UPDATE* Just fixed the issue. Apparently the reason the fan revved up then shut off was because the thermal paste couldn't contact the heatsinks from the CPU/GPU. (Had to disassemble up to Step 28)

I looked around and found this thread:

http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/28793...

However, even after filing the heatsink's "ears" for a while and putting folded paper under the clamps, I was barely getting any paste on the heatsink (and I was running out of paste). So I simply applied the paste to both the processors and the heatsink whilst still adding pressure to the clamps.

It's working like a charm now, fan was near silent for the first 7 or so minutes, now it's running normally.

demonfox09,

i did it but after the fix my ps3 did'n work at all T^T, what can i do naw

dragon, · Reply

I first found the video on YouTube and it helped me through the disassembly, coming down to the end the video skipped over some minor but necessary steps though, so I came to this guide to be sure and to assist in the re-assembly.

I got a lot of trouble to fit the Blu-ray cable back into the motherboard, but a friend helped me out there. Instead of the heat gun I put the board in the oven at 200 degrees for 10 minutes as some recommended.

In the end the PS3 worked! But with all my troubles to get the Blu-ray cable back in I smudged the thermal paste on one of the chips a few times and noe it looks like my PS3 is overheating after a few minutes of use.

I'm going to get more thermal paste and redo this guide, but just to replace the thermal paste.

rmjb, · Reply

My PS3 model was slightly different but I followed the guide and now it's working like new. I'm crossing my fingers hoping it will last a good while!

Brandon Roediger, · Reply

Just went trhough the process go it up and running.... i have the 40 gb fatty... it started up i did the update. i played GTA5 and the back up fan kicked in... which it always did, as ive sent it to playstaion twice to be fixed i figured i'd try to fix it my self this time and so far so good, if it YLOD again can u do this process again?

tim, · Reply

I did and it worked for a few hours. My friend did his and it never worked. We contacted a local electronics repair company called Video Game Console Repair Center at 614-218-1122 and had them reball the consoles. Mine works great now, it has been 3 months so far. My friends needed a new processors because the we ruined them with too much heat from the paint stripping gun. Would not recommend this cheap slick rick repair. Lol!

Joe James, · Reply

This was an experience of overcoming the fact that there are variations of the motherboard, drives, etc... but continued on. Wondered if the board was cooking until read that some had to heat it twice - time to cook that sucker (also an old motherboard, found in the trash, served as a test subject)! Worked like a charm.

The pads are rather expensive but figured IFIXIT has helped me so I foot the bill; but the video is somewhat deceptive, though, as MJ repaired her playstation in under five minutes and it took me waaaaaaaaaaaaay longer.

=;8-)

fmc0235, · Reply

Hello all. This is a great guide but as someone else posted above, putting the board in the oven at 200c for 7 min works perfectly (i've done many boards over the years like this, not just ps3's). But id suggest turning the oven to 215c then then when you open it to put board in turn down to 200c, this will keep the elements from going red and maybe causing localized heat damage.

LOVE THIS SITE!

Thomas, · Reply

Easy as PIE!. Although I didn't use the heat gun. As someone posted above putting the board in the oven, after removing thermal pads, works wonders. I've been doing this trick with boards for a long time. Turn oven to 215c, place board on ceramic backing disk with no chips touching the ceramic. Place in oven and turn oven down to 200c, this will keep the elements from coming on and maybe causing localized heat damage. Turn oven off a 6 min, again to help ensure elements do not come on. Pull board out of oven at 7 min very, very gently. You don't want to move it around much as the solder needs to set. Remove board from ceramic and place on a metal backing dish, to help remove heat from board. Then reinstall.

Love the site, ifixit ROCKS!

Thomas, · Reply

I CAN'T BELIEVE THIS WORKED! My PS3 YLODed about 3-4 weeks ago. I was pretty desperate to get my save data off the hard drive and onto a new PS3. Here are some tips:

Watch the video and print out the guide

There are A LOT of parts, make sure you have a lot of table space or an extra table to put parts on

Keep track of screws by putting them in cups and label them in order. This will help with reassembly

Don't be afraid to yank out the ribbons. Some smaller ones have release hatches so look out

PRAM battery is difficult to remove. I pulled the socket when the guide told me to be careful and it still came out okay

Have duster and a coffee filter to clean off the massive amounts of dust

Heat the board up for at the very least 20 min ON LOW

Thermal paste is VERY sticky and tough to push around. The card works the best to get it thin and flat

I dropped my board after heating and it still worked out okay. Be careful and be aware that the board can get VERY hot while heating.

GOOD LUCK!

christopherbransom, · Reply

I did this repair this morning and it appears to be working fine. It was fairly straight forward. I watched a few different YouTube videos first and found it easy. Remember that the screw length quoted includes the head. I mixed up a few screws but then got them sorted out.

david, · Reply

I had success following the steps. I didn't use the iFixit kit, so no new thermal pads and I used Best Buy Dynex thermal paste. I has two issues. 1) as predicted by the guide I did remove the battery plug from the motherboard. 2) Only the color XMB icons were "folded" at the lower right hand corner. My fix was to do a complete format which took over 3 hours for a 60GB drive. Rebuilding the database/file system would not do a long lasting fix.

Martin

This was a great and relatively easy to understand guide.

Martin, · Reply

Hi to everyone.

I did all of these things in the video, but now there is no light in my Ps3. I dont know why .

There is no electric . I tried it with different cable, but nothing happened. There is no red, yellow or green light.

Could someone help me please ??

Thx for answering

umur demir, · Reply

Hi to everyone

I did all of these at the video, but there is no light on my ps3 now. I tried it with different cable, but still no electric . I dont know why. There is no red, yellow or green light. I am ready to try everything now.

Could someone pls help me ???

umur demir, · Reply

2 more smaller screws (don't know what size...small) just below the top middle screw and top right screw (in the picture). Look for the arrows...

E Goo, · Reply

after you remove the screws, you may have to push a tab to take the cover off if you meet resistance on one side of the cover. Here is a link to a video that explains it, saved me lots of trouble:

http://youtu.be/jZgekNsRB-A?t=1m54s

ericksi33, · Reply

Thanks @ericksi33, this really helped me out.

hogurt,

1st attempt, fan loud. Ps3 lasted about 2 wks. 2nd attempt noticed very poor contact between heatsink & cpu,gpu when taking it apart. Research - Found a better way to apply thermal past. I personally disapprove of guide on this. A small bit about the size of a grain of rice in center of cpu is plenty. Clamp the heat sinks back on. Then take it apart & check contact area. Thermal paste should have spread to about the size of a quarter.(more is better. Less then a nickel size is poor contact) possibly weak clamps. Carefully applied pressure onto the cpu & gpu, pressing them into the heatsinks before clamping heatsink clamps on. Achieved greater then quarter sized thermal past spread. Fan silent in comparison & ps3 lasted about a yr. Rarely did I ever hear the fan go to high and get loud after that. About to begin my third fix on this same ps3. One of the first 80g backwards compatible. other then those notes and that this guide was for a different model ps3 (minor differences) I liked this guide. easy to follow.

brettgomes, · Reply

Although the battery is described as proprietary, it looks like it is the common CR2032 lithium coin battery that is used in calculators and some computers. I haven't had to replace mine but I suspect under the heatshrink cover is a battery holder which will allow the coin battery to be removed and replaced. Then wrap with electrical tape and reinstall.

RickP, · Reply

Not all systems look like this, some have tape instead of the flap.

gatewaynomad, · Reply

Every system that I have seen has had the ZIF connector, while some had tape over the connection as well. If your connectors are taped, be sure to remove the tape, then proceed with undoing the ZIF connector.

Brett Hartt,

The version 2 systems baseboard PCB started switching to the new narrow 24 pin ZIF header/ribbon and Blu-Ray drive connection.

You should not attempt to detach the taped ribbon cable from the drive end first as described above for the older wide 60 pin ribbons. You must remove the drive and ribbon as one unit to protect the fragile ZIF sockets.

The slimmer fragile ribbon is taped to the drive housing to afford a more secure ZIF connection. The opposite base connection is slightly under the PSU.

continued

shadetree, · Reply

From continued

One should firstly remove the PSU: Disconnect the drive power cable as described above. Unscrew the 5 (3-P1 2-P2) PSU mounting screws. Now leaving the power cables attached, lift the PSU off the power baseboard PCB pins and move over slightly to access the baseboard drive cable end ZIF. Release the ZIF latch and slide the entire (drive and ribbon) strait away from the baseboard ZIF to disconnect.

After the complete drive/ribbon removal, you can carefully remove the restraining tape on the bottom of the drive to release the ribbon ZIF, then remove the 24 pin ribbon from the drive logic PCB.

Install in reverse order making sure to add new tape to secure the ribbon to the drive.

shadetree, · Reply

On my PS3 the ground wire(green/yellow) was actually routed under the bolt for the power supply, so I had to remove the power supply before I could removed the AC inlet

jorgebustos2254, · Reply

I had to loosen the two screws on the perforated cover to get the ground wire out.

asciimo, · Reply

Had to remove 2 screws (the top 2 screws marked in step 25) to get the ground cable out.

deuxphoria, · Reply

Like @asciimo and @deuxphoria, I had to loosen the same two screws to get the ground wire out. When you're putting the PS3 back together and you're doing the steps in reverse, it helps to leave those two screws unscrewed during Step 25 and wait until you put the AC inlet back in Step 18.

hogurt, · Reply

so do we apply arctic silver 5 thermal paste to the heat sink pads that attach to the CPU GPU,Or do we only apply thermal paste to the chips /pads CPU GPU ?

David, · Reply

On my 60GB model, the Blu-ray ribbon cable was very easy to disconnect, but a real pain to re-connect. It's not as easy as pushing the black fap down to secure the ribbon. This YouTube video helped enormously: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zn1pMLGH....

hogurt, · Reply

It is quite hard to rotate counterclockwise, but by rotating it slides out, no pulling up is needed. Hard to do by hand, but much easier if you use some flat nose pliers.

jerseyzangel, · Reply

Same here. Even with pliers, my PRAM battery was incredibly difficult to remove. When it did finally come loose, part of the black plastic that keeps it secure broke off for me. The whole thing is loose now when I put it back, but still stays in place.

hogurt,

Worked. Took 3 hours to complete.

****NOTES that weren't mentioned here****

1. Heat Gun on processors = zigzag from top left to bottom right - then circle back up to the top left. repeat.

2. No thermal pads available in your area?

I used the same thermal pads that came with the PS3

3. No T-10 security screw driver?

I broke the very first step - I didn't have a t10 security driver and jsut figured I would risk breaking the cover a bit by pulling it straight up - popped right off - then broke the stupid screw right off of it.

4. took 15 minutes to find things to ensure the motherboard we perfectly level.

5. I let the Motherboard sit for exactly 17 minutes and then applied Arctic silver.

6. No Screwtray ?

I used a piece of duct tape, sorta flipped it around so it was a sticky pad to grab all the screws and not let them get unorganized.

I hope I remember to report back how long the system runs until it dies again, which I hear happens fairly quickly after this type of operation.

Good Luck.

infinitist, · Reply

When in the guide it says put the Heat Gun on a "Low" Heat does anyone know what temp the Temp of their Low setting was?

Bob, · Reply

I had that same question. But I found a answer somewhere else on this site. I used 250 Celsius and it worked like a charm.

OptimusImpreza,

After we apply arctic silver on the CPU GPU is there a time period for the paste to be connected back? and will it set harden if not connected.

Ive read that the arctic silver exspands on heat consumption.

David, · Reply

i am a little upset. My backs of my "fresh thermal pads" were not plastic there were paper and they do NOT pull off easily at all.. tore a couple of them getting them off. I hope this is ok. any suggestions as to how to not have this happen next time?

hockeydude17, · Reply

The white plastic covers were tough to peel off for me as well. An X-ACTO knife or utility blade really helps in this regard.

hogurt,

It took some doing, but this fix seems to have worked. Granted, I've only just turned the system back on and started an update, but that's a heck of a lot better than the yellow light I was getting before. I used the kit, and while peeling off the plastic-y paper backing from the thermal pads was a nuisance, everything I needed was included, and I didn't have any trouble following the instructions in this guide through to get the ol' PS3 up and running again. Thanks, ifixit!

mccarley, · Reply

Hi do we apply the thermal paste on all the square {silverones} GPU CPU or just the two in the middle ?

Also do we apply thermal paste and thermal pads on all 4 silver squares GPU CPU.?

David, · Reply

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