Teardowns I've Worked On
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Guides I've Contributed To
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My Favorite Guides
- A while back, my Creative Inspire t5400 stereo stopped turning on. The LED which usually indicates power no longer lit, and n...
- So, last night my computer decided it didn't want to boot past the HP splash screen. Usually there are several option command...
- Every Xbox 360 I have ever come into contact with has a very distinct rattling noise . It sounds like a screw or spring is ra...
- I recently attempted to install my pioneer car stereo into my 99 Jetta. The first time I turned it on after install, I heard ...
- Yup, they're glued in place. Apple used some pretty serious adhesive to hold them in, but it's nothing that a heat gun wont soften. Picking them out from the back is not possible, so you have to heat them up then push them out from the inside. The main problem with removing them is that you have to remove just about every other component in the iPhone to get to them, which is a real pain.
- Hey Nacho. When the iOpener comes out of the microwave, it will be about 170 degrees Fahrenheit (~77 Celsius). We haven't tried it on a MacBook Pro yet, but I suspect it would work.
- Hey Snowdog, This is a pretty common problem, and you're correct about the finger oil causing bluetooth to fail. There are a couple places that you should clean the contacts before re-assembly. While many of connectors in the iPhone use plug-and-socket connections, many just use spring pressure contacts. These pressure contacts are those which you should clean off. Here are a few: 1) Dock Connector Contacts 2) Near the vibration motor (double check this one, it is likely the culprit) 3) Grounding Pin Use some isopropyl alcohol or some Windex on a Q-tip or microfiber cloth, and you should be golden. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
- Hey Michael. It sounds like your playstation is having some cooling issues. The PlayStation is probably shutting down as a fail safe to prevent damage from overheating. I suggest taking the machine apart and cleaning it out. You would be surprised (grossed out) at the amount of dust that accumulates inside of game consoles, and that can be a serious detriment to cooling. While you are at it, pull the heat sinks off of the processors and replace the thermal paste. The factory thermal paste sometimes "dries out" and doesn't conduct heat as well as it used to. You can follow this guide to help you get to the processors.
- Hey there Matthew. Unfortunately, the LCD cables are not consistent across iMac models. Also, the LCD cable is part of the LCD itself, so you would not be able to replace the cable independently. When you first turned the iMac on, was the display completely blank? Or was it just white? Sometimes it takes a while for the iMac to boot up after disassembly and during that time, the screen will just remain white.
- Hey Ivan. Unfortunately, the keyboard and the upper case cannot be separated. As shown Upper case replacement guide, you have to replace them as a single unit.
- Double check that your dock connector is plugged in all the way. Here is a link to the dock connector guide.
- Hello Douwe, Don't be scared of opening up your computer. As long as you have the right tools, you should have no problem cleaning up any dust inside the computer. Here is a guide on how remove the fan, if that is the route you should choose. It is also likely that the thermal paste should be reapplied. After a while, the thermal paste on the processors can go sour, causing symptoms just like you described. This guide will show you how to get the heat sinks off.
- Hey there. This is really interesting. It is generally assumed that the LCD is fused to the front panel, but somehow, you managed to get schmutz inbetween the two panels. Either way, the two panels have to be replaced together, which is quite a bummer. iFixit has the guide and the part. That is quite a misfortune that you have going there. Before replacing anything, try opening up the device and cleaning up any of the remaining WD-40.
- Hey Crocdog, What I usually do with a bunch of mixed up screws is, like you have already done, group them by size. Then, as I go through the guide, I look for places where I remove a certain number of screws at a time. For instance, if I see 4 screws of similar dimensions, I look for places where four similar screws would likely reside. Also, since there is no "official" way to classify head sizes, take a look at the guide. When we show to remove screws, you can view the image in high-res and take a good look at the screw heads. This may not seem like a considerable help, but currently we don't have a better way to correlate screws and guides. However, I have found that a digital caliper is incredibly useful when measuring screw lengths.
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Hey Scott. Those magnets are used to hold the rear cover close to the body of the MacBook Pro. The screws hold it in place around the perimeter, but the magnets keep the large aluminum panel from acting like a drum, flapping about and such. In the MacBook Air, Apple uses plastic clips to accomplish the same task.
Every system that I have seen has had the ZIF connector, while some had tape over the connection as well. If your connectors are taped, be sure to remove the tape, then proceed with undoing the ZIF connector.