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If you're the owner of a 21.5" iMac, you understand that bigger is not always better. Your iMac can do nearly everything its 27" big-brother can, and you've got at least five extra Benjamins still in your wallet. If you want your iMac to really fly, the biggest bang for your buck is to boot using a blazing-fast SSD. Since a 1 TB SSD might cost more than your iMac, we've got a solution for those who lack unlimited budgets.
It will work with all processor speeds, regardless of whether Apple offers the additional SSD option for your machine. And unlike other kits, our product does not require permanently removing your optical drive. You'll have two storage drives as well as a functioning optical drive.
May 17, 2013
My 2011 iMac was getting slow and was low on disk space.
So I added a 512MB SSD and while I was inside I replaced the 512MB HD with a 2TB HD.
First time I had ever opened a iMac - so it was a bit of an adventure but the repair went flawlessly thanks to the online guide.
Take your time read the complete guide before you start - set aside at least 2 hours and have a clean workspace.
April 11, 2013
March 16, 2013
December 31, 2012
I got the refurbished Mid 2011 21.5" iMac and read about the possibility of creating a FusionDrive with another SSD. Hence, I went to get Plextor PX-5M Pro (256GB) due to its slim 7mm thickness profile, though I believe the usual 9mm thickness should do fine.
With the Dual Hard Drive Kit, you will find the suction cup very important for this fix. The magnets around the LCD frame are very annoying as mention in the video guide. For step 22, the IR sensor is not shown very clearly due to the use of black border. My Airport connector was originally connected as:
CH0 > two stripes, CH1 > one stripe, and CH2 > no stripes.
Nevertheless, I assembled using the connection as mention in the guide. No problem with this connection though.
Suction cup round stain:
I used alcohol swap to wipe of the stain. Nice and clean.
Dust on LCD and Glass panel:
I used scotch tape to stick those dust and it works very well.
Remove the "tough" RAM:
Please get ready to "catch" the RAMs when you pull out the tabs. Do it with a rapid moment so as not to tear the plastic tab, but your RAMs will end up flying towards you.
December 27, 2012
Upgrading an iMac i5, mid 2011 with two HD
Everithing went perfectly as it should, following your instructions!!
I had an experienced technitian with me all the time and it helped me in some dificult parts in the dissassembling and assembling. I've have had trouble befoore trying to do the same when things gonne wrong. So no traumas this time!!
December 19, 2012
1. I needed more disk space. My HD was running on full.
2. The machine seemed to be really slowed down by the HD. Starting applications seemed to take incredibly long. I got to watch a lot of bouncy icons and spinning mouse cursors as they slowly came up -- especially big ones like Xcode. Booting was really slow, too.
The repair went well. As it was the first time I ever took a Mac apart, it took me just under 3 hours to complete the entire process start to finish.
I would have liked if step 39 specified more explicitly that the photo is showing the underside of the logic board and that one needs to access the bottom of it in order to connect the cables. It would also be helpful if it stated that the logic board does indeed need to be carefully wiggled out of the case.
Doing this repair the first time, I found myself too cautious to try and remove the board at first, so I wasn’t able to at the bottom of it, initially, to see if it matches the photo. You guys are warning about not putting a strain on the cables connected to the bottom of it, after all. Having not looked inside an iMac before, one doesn't know how long those cables are or how fragile.
Not a biggie, though. I re-watched the video and studied the guide thoroughly and came to the conclusion, in the end, that I'd have to get the board out of the case.
There was one minor scare, but I got lucky in the end. Trying to unplug the SD board cable next to the fan connector (step 23 in the guide), my nails slipped off the tiny connector’s ridge and chipped the plastic right off! I was left with just the plain wires (and connector pins), and no plastic casing around them.
I was still able to disconnect them and, more importantly, reconnect them once I was done installing the SSD. All is working well, as far as I can tell. Luckily, the two wires stayed in their original configuration. Therefore, it was pretty clear how the cables should go in. Without plastic case around them to hold them together it would have been quite possible for me to plug the wires in reversed.
So be careful out there. I found this particular connector the hardest one to get off. Probably, because it is so little.
December 10, 2012
Wanted faster HDD - needed the correct cable.
iFixit had the solution. Arrived by UPS no problems.
I do this for living so was quite easy for me. The magnetic project matt helped me group all the screws together.
Use a good desk lamp to see what you are doing and remember to get ESD strap and anti static mat to work on. Use scotch tape to group the cables together, so they don't fall down inside when removing the main board.