How to fix a broken metal frame?
It's a beautiful machine but it has a broken metal frame. I want to fix it but it is a big job and I have no experience.
The break is below the battery, so I can see it. Normally the rigidity of the frame keeps the battery in place. At the moment the flexing of the frame means I have no battery connection.
I am considering using a solvent, but really not sure.
Also I need a good list of tools I would have to use for such a repair.
Unfortunately, I think it's going to be really hard to be able to fix your current metal frame. The frame is really thin there around the battery, so there's not much area to work with to glue or otherwise attach together. If you do want to replace the frame, the good news is the part's pretty cheap. There's two different versions, one for the 800 MHz/1 GHz and another for the 1.2 GHz. The bad news is that installing a replacement frame is quite a chore. The closest guide to installing the frame is this logic board install guide. However, at the end of the guide, you'll still be left with a few other parts that you'll need to transfer to the new frame.
Well, it would appear difficult.
However, I have three times now snapped the battery-holding corner of the frame off. On all three occasions a carefully placed piece of masking tape has held it back on. Alternatively, use some tape to hold the battery in.
It sound a bit dodgy but it works and there's no need to pay a penny!
I have repaired this metal frame successfully, but it is hard work, and I had to carefully weigh Time v Cost. Cost won, so I bought a new one from this very site. HOWEVER, when there were no time or cost constraints, and simply to DO it, I attempted the repair...
J B Weld.....ummmm NO (I cleaned the metal with MEK, let it flash to air, waited the 5 minutes for the JB to be mixed. 24 hours later, I had made a mold (impression), but I did not repair this satisfactorily.
SuperGlue (3 kinds, all aircraft/model formulations) none worked.
The only thing that actually put the metal frame back together firmly enough to support my battery (hanging) test was welding.
I used a flea market aluminum "welding" rod with the "flux" they included with the kit...
cleaned it with a stainless wire brush (theirs') and heated the weighted and positioned ends so I could
"scrub" the aluminum rod onto the break.
One big glob later. and a lot of luck,
I filed and ground (Dremel) the glob down to merely huge, and it was used in a rebuild and remains "good-to-go"
Depending on where the break is exactly... I have successfully applied aluminum foil tape (found in auto parts stores for patching mufflers!) to carefully mend cracks in case frames as well as LCD frames. Use the famous iFixit spunger to burnish it in place. That stuff if strong! Molds into any position and basically becomes hard as solder.
Just be careful not to cross any electrical connections, it IS somewhat conductive.