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One or more sides won't toast
Running the toaster without toast, the wires on some sections glow red hot and some of the other wires don't.
Break in the nichrome wire
The glowing wire is called nichrome wire (for nickel-chromium), if part of the array does not heat there's a break in the wire somewhere.
Possible causes of breakage:
1) there was a weak spot or nick in the wire when the wire was manufactured,
2) there was a weak spot or nick made in the wire when the toaster was manufactured (we've seen the break at or near a bend in the wire or a rivet point)
3) someone physically broke the wire by sticking something (like a fork) into the toaster.
An example of a nichrome wire break.
To Fix: You have to disassemble the toaster sufficiently to locate the break and then get good access to it. If you're lucky and there's enough extra wire, you might simply be able to twist the two broken ends together enough to re-establish contact (you can then at least confirm that's the problem.)
In the photo, we were able to short across one wrap of the nichrome a re-establish connectivity.
Otherwise, you need a high-temperature crimp and a crimping tool to to crimp the two ends together. Here are two examples of crimps: High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, Noninsulated, 22-18 Awg, 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100 and High-Temperature Crimp-on Butt Splice, Noninsulated, 16-14 Awg, 900 Degree F Temperature Rating, Packs of 100
Note: The nichrome wire is wrapped around sheets of a brittle ceramic/mica-like material. Depending on where the break is you might find it necessary (or at least tempting) to cut this material. Be very careful, sawing might be better than cutting as it tends to flake.
Toasting lever won't stay down
When you push down the toasting lever, it pops right back up again, or you have to push it down multiple times, or hold it down for a little while before it will stay down.
Power source
Make sure that the toaster is plugged into a working outlet.
Power adjustment
The toaster's browning dial might be on too low of a setting to activate the heating coil. Try dialing it up, and pushing the lever down again.
Crumb obstruction
Constant use can lead to crumbs clogging the path of the lever. Try opening up the bottom panel, by pulling on the metal tab to release the plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out.
Plug wire is frayed or damaged
To Test: Wiggle the plug wire near the plug to see if that makes a noticeable difference. If you can make any lights or display on the toaster flicker by wiggling the wire that's a clear sign there's an intermittent problem in the wire. Use a spare plug wire in lieu of the original one and see if that resolves the issue.
To Fix: Replace the entire plug wire or just the plug.
Background: we've seen this a couple of times: people yank the plug wire out of the wall socket by yanking on the cord, causing the stranded wires in the cord to break over time. It usually gets weak right near the base of the molded plug. If the toaster has lights or an LED display they may still light up and make the toaster look like it's getting electricity: it's just not getting enough electricity to run the toaster.
Check the plug wire first before going to the effort of opening the toaster to clean the contacts. While this is a less common failure mode it's easier to check and will save you a lot of troubleshooting time.
Poor Contact Connection
There's an electrical contact near the toasting lever that is now carbonized due to too much electrical arcing and it's not letting any (or enough) electricity flow through. The contacts will look black or dulled on the inside.
To Fix: Clean off the carbon from the contacts and the toaster will work again. We use an emery board and push it back and forth between the contacts until they're clean again and can conduct electricity.
Filing the lever contacts clean.
Additional Information: The arcing is due to slightly misaligned contacts that made it through poor quality control. The toaster works initially but over time electrical sparking between the contacts due to the misalignment creates carbon build up: that build-up is electrically insulating.
There's a lot of current going through that contact because of the way a pop-up toaster works. When you push the toasting lever down it also makes contact with a solenoid (an electromagnet) that holds the lever down. The current for that electromagnet flows through the carbonized contact along with all the electricity to run the nichrome wire heating elements: not enough current and the electromagnet doesn't energize and the lever doesn't stay down.
This problem is also common with electric hot water kettles where the button or lever or switch won't stay down.
Spring mechanism is blocked or broken
Maintaining the spring attached to the lever will remove debris that is potentially blocking the lever from connecting to the magnet
Toaster will not stay on
Its plugged in, I'm not that technically inept.
Outlet issues
First make sure that the outlet works by plugging other devices into that same outlet.
Power adjustment
The toaster's browning dial might be on too low of a setting to activate the heating coil. Try dialing it up, and pushing the lever down again.
Wire Malfunction
Visually check the wire for any punctures or abrasions. If you find damage on your power cord you should replace it. Follow this power cord replacement guide, or one more specific to your device.
Toast won't pop up after the toasting is complete
Bread grabbers will not keep the bread vertical or return it properly. Metal forks and electric heating coils don't mix, so don't try.
Floppy bread
If the bread won't come back up, try using a different bread that is maybe thicker or less pliable.
Bread orientation
If the bread is folding within the grabbers, the springs pushing the grabbers together could possibly be malfunctioning. This will require opening the toaster, you can follow this Bread grabber spring guide, or one more specific to your device.
Constant burning smell
Avoid that "is something burning??" question every time you put a piece of bread in the toaster.
Crumb Tray
Most toasters will come with a crumb tray to allow the removal of some of the crumbs that may be causing the burning smell. Check on the bottom of the toaster for a metal tab to release the crumb tray plate (and crumbs!) over a trash can. Also try flipping the toaster upside down and, very gently, shaking the crumbs out. If your toaster needs a more in depth cleaning, try this bread tray maintenance guide or one more suited to your specific device.
Stuck debris
If there are bread crumbs on the coils themselves, ensure that the toaster is off and not connected to any power, then gently pry the crumbs out of the heating element.
Browning dial will not operate
Only a true toaster connoisseur can find that golden spot to make that golden toast, but your toast isn't turning out even close to what you wanted.
Jammed
If the browning dial will not move at all, crumbs may be stuck in the socket. Unplug the toaster and try to dislodge the debris by shaking the unit.
Dislodged/No communication
The dial may no longer be in communication with the device itself. This will require the opening of the toaster to see if there is something (i.e. a crumb) interfering with the browning dials inner workings or if you have a more serious problem on your hands.
You may have to disassemble the toaster, you can follow a generic toaster disassembly guide or one more specific to your device.
Team
Cal Poly, Team 2-8, Propen Fall 2012 Member of Cal Poly, Team 2-8, Propen Fall 2012
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44 Comments
On my toaster, the inner elements do not glow as brightly and therefore don't get has hot as the outer elements causing the bread to be toasted unevenly from side to side. These inner elements are designated as the 'bagel' toasting sides, but activating the 'bagel' button only causes the outer elements to go dark and does not make the inner 'bagel' elements glow any brighter. The connection to the inner elements seems solid, so I suspect a failure with the circuit board that controls the electrical flow to the elements. Any thoughts? Thanks!
TomTom - Reply
Hi TomTom: What's the make and model of the toaster?
Fixit Clinic -
Hi there, We have an AEG toaster (model AT5110). The plastic cover, which rests on top of the toaster, just melted into the toaster. However, we had not pushed the lever down, nor were we in the vicinity of the toaster prior to it occurring. Have you encountered a toaster malfunction where it switches itself on? Many thanks.
Cheri Young - Reply
I did this guide when I fixed a broken element wire in my toaster. All working again now. See this
https://youtu.be/kXn1lTYCtGs
jon - Reply
I have a toaster that blackens the toast when the browning setting is slightly above low. Is there any way to adjust the toaster so that the darker browning occurs when the lever is pushed towards the high side?
Cyndy Davenport - Reply
How do you dim digital lights on Faberware toaster....way too bright
Sherry - Reply
I have a Siemens TT60101.
I notice that in order to make properly browned toast it needs to be set to full on. As far as I can see the filaments are all glowing evenly....it just seems to be a Browning string problem.....any ideas?
Will - Reply
Hi on my toaster the handle wouldn't go down my husband accidentally broke it it's there any way to fix it if you guys do can you let me know thank you
mari21395 - Reply
GREAT advises , thanks a lot. Bless you
Jordan Tellalov - Reply
Have Hamilton Beach 2 slice toaster. Handle wouldn't stay down but the elements worked if you held the handle down. Unplug toaster. Remove 4 screws in the toaster feet, pry 4 retainers on sides and ends apart, working around toaster doing a side,an end,other side then other end. Partially lift the works from case. Handle can now be removed. To do this lift the works enough to expose the retainer on the handle. Using a small knife the retainer was pried from the little knob on the plastic post that holds the handle while pulling the handle off. Crumbs were carefully removed from the handle spring using the tip of a small knife. A large accumulation of crumbs were noticed at both ends of the spring. Put the toaster back together by first pushing the works into the case. The retainers on the sides and ends should snap into place with no problem. Then put the 4 screws back in the feet of the toaster. Hopefully your problem was similar to mine, an accumulation of crumbs and your toaster will be working.
David Charman - Reply
A common problem with appliances that use transformerless power supplies is a shorted Zener diode, typically 12V 1W. This Zener regulates the supply for the IC(s).
Franc Zabkar - Reply
There have been 3, 4 slice toaster into our repair event, with the same fault on all of them - the right hand lever will not stay down. The Breville will work perfectly with the out casing removed but when the case is replaced the lever will not stay down. I am totally puzzled by it! Tried everything thing I can think of.
Colin Shaw - Reply
Toaster after a short period trips electric
francispgreen - Reply
I have a 4 slice toaster where the inside elements on both sides do not heat properly. Initially I thought it was the bagel setting being stuck, but it is the same on both sides, whether run together or separately. The is contuity between all observed ends. In addition, when I check the voltage through those wires, I get ~14v… They do glow slightly, but you can barely see it. I got it free with the issue, but was told that it just started out of the blue.
Any help would be great! The lady of the house isn't going to be happy with the toaster in pieces…
Jacob Crosby - Reply
My toaster pops up after few seconds eventhough I put it at maximum. What might be the reason?
Prince - Reply
my toaster have 3 touch buttons
what is the function buttons
Muhammad Iqbal khan Khan - Reply
Hi our toaster is not getting any power. We will check the moulded plug but it is a sideways one so not likely to be pulled very often. If it is not the cord and there is no immediate signs of anything burnt out is it probably a fatal problem that is not worth fixing?
It just stopped working one day, no signs of life at all.
Andrea Prickett - Reply
I have a Breville VTT911 and the toasting lever will not stay down. I then held the levers down and it worked ok. The following day I noticed that when I held the levers down only the two left sided elements were working and the two right handed ones were not. Does this mean that apart from a lever problem an element needs replacing.
Charles 08/01/2020
charles hawkins - Reply
My toaster has been burning after even the smallest amount of toasting time and on the second lowest setting. The culprit is in the heating coils. How do I clean these out?.
lancestevenson520 - Reply
Toaster working but when the toast finished all the electrics go off in the house (blow out)
noelle kirwin - Reply
the bottom coils on my toaster oven do not heat up
floridante - Reply
Hi, is it normal for some sections of the nichrome wire not to glow on a brand new toaster? Its a Dualit (2 slot lite) so it was expensive and I want to return it if this isn't normal. Thanks!
Dom Dom - Reply
Hello, I have a smeg toaster and one side heats up extremely fast to the point it will catch fire, I don’t know why. I have given the toaster a full clean and there’s nothing on the wires, any advice please on how to fix this ?
Thanks Kylie
Kylie Williams - Reply
I have a Breadman toaster and no matter how I change the dial ,the toast stays only down for about 5 seconds and then pops up .Is that fixable?
Elfie Allison - Reply
I have my toaster on a low setting yet the top part of one slice (not the other) burns. What gives???
ebettman - Reply
Hi, I have a T-fall 2 slice toaster Model No. SERIE T241-A, WHY it through the toasts out when the are done(brown).
I was looking to unscrew the cover, but the it has not common. seem to me its a pentagon or hexagon shape and in the center has a pin. any idea where can i buy this special screwdriver and any tips to fix it.
Thanks
Shamim
Shamim Baig - Reply
Toaster stays down and cancel button is always lid how do i repait this
vinod007soman - Reply
POSSIBLY NO DISASSEMBLY! With toaster unplugged and cool, use a dental mirror (available in many hardware stores) and a flashlight to find a gap in the nichrome wire. It must be on toast side, not backside, of the non-heating panel to be visible and fixable by this method. If found and the gap is small, use a long stiff tweezers to gently pull one or both free ends of the wire until they overlap, and are lightly pressing against each other. If the gap is large, e.g. a missing section of wire, gently bend the end portion of one wire to lightly contact the adjacent parallel wire (not itself). Plug in and test before use, and avoid rough handling.
Wolf Lorber - Reply
My toaster does not toast on edges only -this is both slots -I have cleaned out tray -when I look inside inner sides are glowing no dark spots- so truly do not understand the issue -using medium slices of bread -Oster toaster is about 6 months old -working perfect for a while with same bread- what’s gives.?
Pam Seamann - Reply
Why do toasters always toast uneven after a couple of months ? This has happened to my last three toasters of all different qualities and price.
cath brown - Reply
My toaster doesn't pop up once the bread is toasted. Any suggestions?
sportscamshooter - Reply
ALL toasters have a major fault, if you buy a 2 / 4 slice then to toast a single slice the elements on both side come on. Time manufacturers got with the eco program. If I buy a 2 slice I have to pay for both sides to heat a single slice. There should be options. Yes I know there are single slice toasters,I have one & use it most of the time, but occasionally I want 2 slices. Having trawled internet pages & pages around the globe I have yet to find such a machine.
cottersmillington - Reply
my toaster won’t work in my two kitchen outlets but works fine in bathroom outlet… and in kitchen other appliances work fine????weird
nancy - Reply
That's strange. When you say "won't work", what are the symptoms? If it won't stay down then maybe the supply voltage was a bit lower in your kitchen than in your bathroom, at the time you tested it. People believe that AC supply voltage is (somehow!) controlled very tightly by their lines company, but in fact I'd guess you'd see swings of 5V or 10V every day -- as the load varies, and as your neighbours with photovoltaic panels "dump" their excess power onto the local line you share with them. If you go to a hobby-electronics store, or if you're ok with purchasing directly from AliExpress, you can get an inexpensive piece of equipment that'll measure AC voltage (and also current and kWh energy consumption, if you're really geeky ;-) There are many retail storefronts on AliExpress. This one passed my (very limited) due-diligence test for an inexpensive first purchase. Caveat emptor! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10050040...
Clark -
Hi there, I have a 1978 Silex toaster that I really don't want to part ways with. It's in really good shape. No bumps or burnt on stuff in the crumb tray. Whomever owned it before me kept it in good repair. There is one glaring problem. It won't pop up! I noticed one of the two little bars you put the bread on is bent. Could that be the problem, or is it something a little more serious?
James Fink - Reply
My new Cuisinart CPT-180 says in the manual to unplug the unit after using. I have "never" (60 yrl.) had to unplug a toaster after using it.
JT-6 - Reply
Yeah that's pretty funny! It's a "dumb" toaster so there's really not much it can do "wrong" after a power surge. However any toaster is a fire hazard, as well as an electrical hazard, so if you live in a country (such as the USA) where consumers can (and do!) sue manufacturers for megabucks then such safety warnings are understandable. The best safety warning I have read to date was on an IC-CPD (which is an appliance for charging an EV): the manual warned against using its cord to tow a vehicle, and then in its next sentence said something like "I can't believe that I'm required to warn you against doing this!".
Clark -
bread shown current while toasted
Shiv Sharma - Reply
current shock feel when putting bread in toaster
Shiv Sharma - Reply
One possibility is that the outlet isn't offering your toaster a low-resistance path to "earth" on its grounding pin. Another is that the wall-socket you're using doesn't have a ground-fault current interruptor (aka "RCD" in some countries, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-c...). No matter what -- if you can feel the 50Hz (or 60 Hz) humm when you touch your toaster, that's dangerous!
Clark -
I have a ideale+ toaster and I got chocolate stuck inside the toaster is there any way to get it out
Waffle - Reply
Thanks for the suggestions! It hadn't occur to me to clean the contacts in my cheap-as-chips toaster which wouldn't stay down... but they had been visibly arcing for years, so duh! Filing them down until they were shiny bright allowed me to make some toast; but the contact-arcing is so severe (and their plating is now hopeleslly pitted) so I'm afraid that toaster is kaput. (I had some vague ideas of replacing the electrolytic capacitor which -- I guess! -- is the most fault-prone component in the de-arcing circuit but I can't be bothered to shotgun-repair the PCB in a dumb-as-cheap-as toaster. So I'll pull its PCB and toss it into my e-waste pile, sigh, and purchase another toaster.)
Clark - Reply
Hmm... not much in the toaster is hazwaste, but the nickel and chromium in the nichrome heating element are pretty nasty in a landfill; and of course the copper and steel could conceivably be recycled. Yeah right.
Clark -
Pourquoi une fois le pain grillé l'arrêt automatique ne fonctionne pas. Marque kenwood avec 2 toaster . Merci
michel leblond - Reply