The kettle will not turn 'ON.' ¶ 

You have filled the kettle with water, set it on the baseplate, turned the switch on, and . . . nothing happens. The neon light on the ON/OFF switch does not light, and there is no noise indicating the water is boiling.

Kettle not plugged in ¶ 

There is a good reason this might happen. Accidentally starting an empty kettle is prevented by unplugging the baseplate.

Outlet not working properly ¶ 

Presuming you have plugged in the power cord, the failure of the kettle to turn on may be due to a malfunctioning power outlet. Check for ‘scorch’ marks on the outlet face. If you see any darkening of the ‘finish’ around the outlet holes, you likely need to replace the outlet.

Another possibility could be that many kitchens today have Ground-Fault Interrupt (GFI) outlets, particularly near water sources, to prevent shocks. If the internal circuitry in the GFI outlet has tripped (de-energized) the outlet due to a sensed fault, or if the GFI unit has failed (as they can, with age), then that may also be a cause of the apparent kettle failure.

If you have a voltage tester in the house you can use it to check the outlet for voltage; try the tester on a known good outlet first to verify it is working properly. If the outlet is working properly, the tester should show approximately 110 volts.

If you do not have a voltage tester, try plugging a small, working appliance into the outlet. If the second appliance does not work, then your problem is likely the outlet.

If the outlet is a standard outlet and it appears to have failed, you can try to replace it yourself or call an electrician to do so. If it is a GFI outlet, first try pressing the 'reset' button in the center of face of the outlet (between the two plug-in points) and then retest the outlet using an appliance, as above. If resetting the GFI outlet does not restore power, the outlet will need to be replaced.

Plug or cord damaged ¶ 

The appliance has a metal case; therefore, it has a grounded (3-prong) power cable. Visually inspect the cord and the plug. If there is damage (bent/missing prongs or cuts in the cord) or a faulty connection at the baseplate or outlet, the kettle may not work. See the ChefsChoice M677 Power Cord Replacement Guide for plug and/or cord replacement.

ON/OFF switch malfunctioning ¶ 

If the ON/OFF switch is internally damaged or is not working properly, it will prevent voltage being applied to the heating element.

Kettle not sitting 'solidly' on the baseplate ¶ 

There have been reports that over time the connection between the baseplate and the kettle can get 'sticky' and prevent the kettle sitting firmly and solidly on the baseplate, resulting in an inadequate electrical connection.

The kettle heats the water, but not to a boil. ¶ 

The kettle baseplate is plugged into a working outlet. You've put water in the kettle, the ON/OFF switch is down and lit, but the water does not boil.

Carefully place the back of your hand against the side of the kettle. If it is 'warm' to the touch, then the control circuit for the heating element is getting power to the element. One or more of the problems listed below could be the cause for incomplete heating:

Inadequate voltage ¶ 

There are a variety of reasons or causes for low voltage, including electrical service interruptions, that would prevent the kettle from turning off.

Failing control circuit ¶ 

The control circuit is made up a variety of circuit components, each of which could be failing, resulting in the element not getting sufficient applied voltage. See the ChefsChoice M677 Control Switch Replacement Guide.

Failing heating element ¶ 

Unfortunately, this is neither replaceable nor repairable. You either have to get a new kettle body or a whole new kettle.

Heavy mineral scale build-up ¶ 

Mineral scale from hard water looks like a pale grey crust on the bottom of the inside of the kettle. It can impede heat transfer and limit the amount of heat added to the water. This can be removed simply by boiling a mixture of water and distilled vinegar (equal parts; that is, 1 part vinegar to 1 part water) and letting it sit in the kettle until cool (some people recommend overnight). Repeat the steps as necessary to dissolve any heavy accumulation of scale. Be sure to rinse the kettle well before next using to boil water.

The kettle does not heat the water at all. ¶ 

The kettle baseplate is plugged into a working outlet. You've put water in the kettle, the ON/OFF switch is down, but the water does not heat up.

Carefully place the back of your hand against the side of the kettle. If it is 'cold' to the touch then it is likely the heating element is not working. This is most likely the result of one of two problems:

Voltage is not applied to the heating element ¶ 

See "The kettle will not turn 'ON,'" above.

The heating element has failed completely ¶ 

Unfortunately, this is neither replaceable nor repairable. You either have to get a new kettle body or a whole new kettle.

The kettle heats water to a boil, but will not turn 'OFF.' ¶ 

After the water boils, you have to turn the kettle off manually.

Automatic shutoff fails to operate ¶ 

There are a few reasons this could be happening, both due to the same cause: the thermostatic switch is not operating once the water reaches boiling temperature. The switch could have failed (see the ChefsChoice M677 Control Switch Replacement Guide) or the thermostat has failed.

Kettle lid not closed and properly seated ¶ 

Inside the kettle there is a metal tube next to the handle. At the top of the tube is a hole. Steam from the boiling water enters that hole and flows down the tube to heat the thermostat.

If the kettle lid is not properly seated, steam cannot build up inside the kettle lid 'dome' and the thermostat will not reach the desired temperature to trigger the automatic shut-off feature.

Try boiling water again after reseating the kettle lid and ensuring that it is 'locked' in place. If the kettle still fails to shut off automatically, then you have a bad thermostat or thermostatic switch.

The kettle leaks. ¶ 

When you fill the kettle with water, it leaks out.

Cracked level indicator ¶ 

If the plastic water level indicator in the handle has cracked, water can leak out of the kettle. Check by removing the switch cover. If the indicator has cracked, buy a replacement indicator.

Cracked washer ¶ 

There are clear rubber washers on the inside of the kettle at the points where the level indicator/handle penetrates the kettle wall. If a washer has cracked, replace it.

Corroded kettle base ¶ 

The kettle base can corrode or perforate, especially near the folded joints where the base meets the kettle body. If this is the case, you will need to buy a new kettle.

The kettle lid does not operate properly. ¶ 

When attempting to OPEN or CLOSE the lid it either does not spring open or lock closed, as it should.

Lid hinge/latch failure: CLOSED ¶ 

Examine the hinge/latch and lid release push-button for damage. If damaged, the lid may need to be replaced.

Lid hinge/latch failure: OPEN ¶ 

Check the hinge/latch and the area around the lid for obstructions. If there are obstructions, remove them (if possible) and check lid operation again.

One Comment

where in boston can i find a replacement lid lock spring

Christy Page - Reply

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