Student-Contributed Wiki

Student-Contributed Wiki

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Will not recognize USB connection ¶ 

The device is not connecting to a computer, or other device.

Not enough storage ¶ 

The reason your device is not connecting to your computer may be due to the lack storage space, or the settings. If you go to the settings menu on the Canon EOS Rebel T5, there is an upload option for mass storage. Make sure this setting is turned on.

Software is not reading the camera correctly ¶ 

Another reason the camera may not be identified by your computer is that it does recognize it as a camera. If the settings in your camera have been changed, your computer may think it is a USB drive, or nothing at all. One way to fix this problem is in the camera settings. Make sure the auto play feature is on, as well as any other automatic connection options.

The flash is broken ¶ 

The flash option on my camera is not working.

Dead lightbulb ¶ 

If you find that the light bulb for the flash is broken, it can be replaced. A flash attachment can also be connected to the top of the camera. This can be found on Canon's website.

Circuitry problems ¶ 

A circuitry problem may have occurred from dropping the device, in which the wire connecting the light bulb to the power source has been dislocated. Shake the device and listen for any movement. If there is a sound, open the device, using the iFixIt tools and reconnect the wire. If this does not work, then it is likely that the wire connecting the light bulb to the power source has burned out; in which case, it would need to be replaced.

LCD screen is unresponsive ¶ 

You are unable to see your images clearly on the LCD screen.

Stuck or broken pixels ¶ 

LCD pixels respond to changes in voltage which allow them to display different light intensities. A broken or stuck pixel does not respond to changes in voltage that give this change in luminescence. One way to fix this would be to apply pressure to the broken pixels when the camera turns on; this could push the pixel back into place.

Images burned in the screen ¶ 

If there is a faint image or distortion of screen clarity, it is most likely because an image was left on the screen for too long. This can sometimes take only a few hours to occur, depending on the brightness of the pixels being used. When this happens, the brighter burning pixels dim, holding their residual charge. To fix this, you can display a bright white image, or black image, that covers the entire screen for an hour. This calibrates the pixels, forcing them to change to the color and brightness of the factory settings.

Images are bright and overexposed or black ¶ 

Your pictures are black or overexposed.

The shutter mirror is stuck ¶ 

When your shutter mirror is stuck, the light reflecting into the lens will not look the same way it does through the viewfinder. The mirror either moves the wrong way, causing overexposure, or doesn't move at all, blocking the lens and now all you have is a picture of the back of your shutter mirror. One solution is to turn off any special camera features like flash and stabilization. Switch the camera dial settings to an option other than the automatic settings and take a picture. After, open the battery case to turn off the camera. The shock of the camera turning off unexpectedly may cause the mirror to jump back into place.

Shutter release error ¶ 

Your images are black or not appearing.

The shutter is stuck ¶ 

To test if the shutter is stuck, turn the auto settings off. Looking into the lens, take a picture. The shutter pieces look like tiny black doors. If you don't see them flicker open, then your shutter doors are stuck. There are several ways to fix this.

You can turn the auto settings off, take a picture with good exposure, and take out the battery. Repeat these steps until the shutter doors open.

If this does not work, you can tap the camera against a table, taking pictures in between. Listen for the shutter to open.

If this process still doesn't work, try taking pictures on different settings. Find the camera setting that makes the shutter move the most and stick a pen between the doors to open them further.

One Comment

Sorry, but this troubleshooting guide gets an F.

First:

You NEVER, EVER poke at the shutter or the mirror of a (D)SLR, much less force the shutter open with any type of tool. Chances are you'd cause permanent damage, not only to the mirror and/or shutter but to the image sensor (which sits a tiny fraction of an inch behind the shutter) as well. Such damage would almost certainly classify the camera as BER, which is shorthand for Beyond Economical Repair. In other words, it will turn the camera into an expensive paperweight.

Second:

The most common cause of severely under- or overexposed images is simply operator error.

Many owners of entry-level DSLRs like the T5/1200D simply cannot or will not deal with stuff like aperture, shutter speed and ISO. They shoot full auto and that's it. If, for some reason, the camera's mode dial gets set to M, AV, or TV, panic ensues - sometimes to the point that they even fail to recognize the simple solution: set the mode dial back to the green full-auto icon.

Flying Dutchman - Reply

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